Bike as in motorcycle or bicycle?
Because if you mean bicycle there's a fair bit of irony in your statement.
It's amazing how expensive relatively simple stuff gets once you tie it to cycling.
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3D printing
- Thread starter NH Phantom
- Start date
Because if you mean bicycle there's a fair bit of irony in your statement.
It's amazing how expensive relatively simple stuff gets once you tie it to cycling.
We should be safe as long as manufacturers keep using Marlin. Fingers crossed.this whole thing is really only starts to mature, with those 3d printers, i guess it will all get formalized and closed down from open source to proprietary builds soon enough. like amateur drones eventually ended up with the DJI running the show money wise. i think i jumped into it at a right time - it is not locked down yet, but already mature enough to actually work, mostly, as expected.
You're absolutely right, bicycle lube is stupid priced as well. But at least it's a much bigger bottle than 0.5oz.
My motorcycle doesn't deserve the nice stuff, it gets gear oil.
does anybody have a file of a 3d model of this particular daniel defence grip?
i really like this particular one, but did not find it anything like it, yet.
i saw some odd sites asking a $5 in zelle for it, but, not gonna happen. also saw some grips on a thingverse but they all suck.
i really like this particular one, but did not find it anything like it, yet.
i saw some odd sites asking a $5 in zelle for it, but, not gonna happen.
also saw some grips on a thingverse but they all suck.
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Nothing on a.quuck searchdoes anybody have a file of a 3d model of this particular daniel defence grip?
i really like this particular one, but did not find it anything like it, yet.
i saw some odd sites asking a $5 in zelle for it, but, not gonna happen.
View attachment 668490
That's a proprietary design so not many legitimate sources are going.to scan and release a model of it.
yeah... this one is so-so, but, still no cigar. well, too bad.
Grip V3.1
This download contains the latest textured AR pistol grips from Hoffman Tactical. There are options to fit "mil-spec" as well as printed lowers. All grips do contain beaver tails, so weapons that are ...
odysee.com
I was able to download the odyssey link no problemyeah... this one is so-so, but, still no cigar. well, too bad.
Grip V3.1
This download contains the latest textured AR pistol grips from Hoffman Tactical. There are options to fit "mil-spec" as well as printed lowers. All grips do contain beaver tails, so weapons that are ...
Did it on my phone so was only able to see the zip contents which seem legit
Get a duet3D and never look back, I have these in each of my printers and they are awesome!
They are but they command a premium price. For most of people the extra money would be better spent on a hot end or extruder upgrade.
Yep, but you get what you pay for, its a superior control board. As far as hot ends go, I am a purist, I machine my own stuff and I also use the duet force sensor for bed leveling. These work awesome as they use the actual nozzle touching the bed to register an extremely accurate Z position. I use cura and my startup code does a 25 point touch matrix on the bed before each print.
My delta printer has a custom hot end fed from a bowden tube and magnetic ball arms. That is for things like PLA, and carbon fiber impregnated nylon, etc. My Cartesian has a custom dual drive extruder riding on the gantry for things like TPU that don't work well with the bowden setup.
The bottom line is I don't want to have to screw around with the hardware when I have to print something, so I have put a lot into it. Store bought printers are OK but if you have the capability to custom design and fabricate your own, they can rival the pro stuff for not nearly as much cash outlay. The only real parts I purchase on the filament side of things are the heat breaks, the heaters and the nozzles. I machine all the other hot end components and support structures myself.
ETA:
Currently I am using the titanium copper heatbreaks but I have been toying with the idea of making some out of inconel for some higher temperature filaments.
Check out these baby's
Amazon product ASIN B09MTXGVMZView: https://www.amazon.com/SERVO42C-Stepper-Printer-Compatible-Mainboard/dp/B09MTXGVMZ/ref=sr_1_20?crid=3HJ293RNA15U6&keywords=Servo+stepper+motor&qid=1664680491&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjU1IiwicXNhIjoiMS41OSIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=servo+stepper+motor%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-20
Not extremely pricey either.
Amazon product ASIN B09MTXGVMZView: https://www.amazon.com/SERVO42C-Stepper-Printer-Compatible-Mainboard/dp/B09MTXGVMZ/ref=sr_1_20?crid=3HJ293RNA15U6&keywords=Servo+stepper+motor&qid=1664680491&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjU1IiwicXNhIjoiMS41OSIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=servo+stepper+motor%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-20
Not extremely pricey either.
i want to get back to practical questions.
So I have now an enclosure and the “PRILINE Superhard Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate” seems to be printing fine there at 260deg. As I understand, that is a not true polycarbonate, but a mix made specifically to work at lower temperatures.
Most true nylons are supposed to work at 280-300 temps, same as true PC. Are there known tested carbon fiber or glass nylon mixes that will print properly at my max 260 deg temperature?
I do not think i specifically even need nylons for anything that a PC would not do same good, but, just curious.
So I have now an enclosure and the “PRILINE Superhard Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate” seems to be printing fine there at 260deg. As I understand, that is a not true polycarbonate, but a mix made specifically to work at lower temperatures.
Most true nylons are supposed to work at 280-300 temps, same as true PC. Are there known tested carbon fiber or glass nylon mixes that will print properly at my max 260 deg temperature?
I do not think i specifically even need nylons for anything that a PC would not do same good, but, just curious.
You can get away with printing higher temperature filaments at lower hot end temperatures at the expense of print speed. The issue is how long it has in the hot end to properly liquefy. So for example, if you are running your hot end at its maximum of 260C and you slow down the print to say 75%, the filament will have more dwell time in the hot end. You can play tricks like this (within reason) with most filament, 20C is not a big jump. If you can, get some of the filament you want to try and just extrude some at various speeds and see how it looks. Do this with the extruder clear of the bed and you will be able to see if the output is too thick or thin for a given extrusion rate.i want to get back to practical questions.
So I have now an enclosure and the “PRILINE Superhard Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate” seems to be printing fine there at 260deg. As I understand, that is a not true polycarbonate, but a mix made specifically to work at lower temperatures.
Most true nylons are supposed to work at 280-300 temps, same as true PC. Are there known tested carbon fiber or glass nylon mixes that will print properly at my max 260 deg temperature?
The limiting factor of most of the hot ends as far as temperature goes is the teflon liner which is used in the heat break. If you can eliminate the liner, you can jack up the temperature. One way to do it is to use a better thermally conductive heat break that does not use a liner and increase the cooling on the heat sink. Unfortunately most materials suitable for a liner all break down above 260C so other cooling methods must be employed. Some high end commercial designs employ liquid cooling, but that is completely beyond the scope of this discussion.
Remember, above the heat break, the filament is solid, the break is the transition zone where it is softening, it actually liqufies below the break in the heater block. The idea of a good hot end design is that there is enough air flow over the upper end of the heatsink to keep the filament from liquifying above the heat break. So it is feasible to jack up the heater temperature if you increase the airflow over the heatsink. Just remember that teflon starts to break down above about 260C.
As far as your original question of what nylon mix to use, that is going to require some trial and error. Quite a few of these manufacturers will claim anything to sell a roll. They know that once you use it, you can't send it back. Some of the more reputable filament manufacturers offer sample packs with a variety of types in short lengths. You may want to take a look at ninjatek armadillo. Its a rigid TPU filament that has similar properties to nylon but prints at around 230C.
I hope this helps.
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Is this nylon going to be capable to survive 108 or so temp of a hot coolant, attached next to a radiator? I am a bit skeptical.
Trial and error is a great approach, but I am trying to cheat my way through it
- just hope others already went through it. Polymaker Nylon Filament 1.75 Black CoPA, Easy to Print 750g Nylon Filament 1.75mm, Cardboard Spool - PolyMide CoPA Warp Free Nylon 3D Printer Filament, Strong & Tough & Heat Resistant https://a.co/d/hN354Nq
I just edited my post, take a look at Ninjatek Armadillo, this might help you. As for what will survive what, I can't say, you are going to have to wade through the specs and see what will perform to your requirements.Is this nylon going to be capable to survive 108 or so temp of a hot coolant, attached next to a radiator? I am a bit skeptical.
Trial and error is a great approach, but I am trying to cheat my way through it
Polymaker Nylon Filament 1.75 Black CoPA, Easy to Print 750g Nylon Filament 1.75mm, Cardboard Spool - PolyMide CoPA Warp Free Nylon 3D Printer Filament, Strong & Tough & Heat Resistant https://a.co/d/hN354Nq
Let's face it, the hotter environment you want your finished product to withstand, the higher the print temperature is going to have to be. Its just physics. But if you truly want to print parts that can withstand the highest temperatures, you should be looking into hot ends designed to go up to higher temperatures instead of looking for materials that will print at lower temps but withstand higher temp environments. Anything that prints at a low temp is going to melt at a low temp, its that simple.
One thing we make here are propane injectors that live near hot engine blocks. We use glass filled nylon and that works for us but requires some special stuff like a custom high temp hot end and steel nozzles.
Sorry I can't be of more help.
Looks like the Nylon requires annealing to resist up to 180c, that usually deforms the print a bit. So depending on your use case, could be an issue with the changed dimensions.Is this nylon going to be capable to survive 108 or so temp of a hot coolant, attached next to a radiator? I am a bit skeptical.
Trial and error is a great approach, but I am trying to cheat my way through it
Polymaker Nylon Filament 1.75 Black CoPA, Easy to Print 750g Nylon Filament 1.75mm, Cardboard Spool - PolyMide CoPA Warp Free Nylon: 3D Printer Filament, Strong & Tough & Heat Resistant https://a.co/d/hN354Nq
You could compile new firmware and get something like this to raise your printing temps to 280c. Add a higher watt heater catridge and block and you can get well beyond 300c.Then you can just use whatever filament that suits your needs*
*venting may be required for voc
** modding your printer can get $$ real fast. Wait, sounds just like guns
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What @Lucas McCain said - if you want to use your print at high temperature then you will need high temp filament.
To do that is going to take an all metal hot end, a new thermistor and firmware flash.
Even charging out the tube to Capricorn won't get you to 300°C. You will need to spend $75+ to get a good hot end and thermistor. Putting in a $10 metal heat break clone might work but could be an exercise in frustration.
That's the tradeoff - deal with a learning curve or pay for proven performance above the level you currently need to ensure it works out of the box.
Some of what he says about getting what you pay for is true but as a purist his price point is skewed higher on the price curve (not a dig to him)
Somewhere between a HighPoint and a fully custom 1911 from @Greg Derr is a gun that does the job to a reasonable degree of satisfaction.
To do that is going to take an all metal hot end, a new thermistor and firmware flash.
Even charging out the tube to Capricorn won't get you to 300°C. You will need to spend $75+ to get a good hot end and thermistor. Putting in a $10 metal heat break clone might work but could be an exercise in frustration.
That's the tradeoff - deal with a learning curve or pay for proven performance above the level you currently need to ensure it works out of the box.
Some of what he says about getting what you pay for is true but as a purist his price point is skewed higher on the price curve (not a dig to him)
Somewhere between a HighPoint and a fully custom 1911 from @Greg Derr is a gun that does the job to a reasonable degree of satisfaction.
Just pulled the adapter bracket from the base plate, printed in that pc cf superhard. Looks damn nice. I printed it in .2mm, set the default cura profile to fine .12mm defaults, then altered layer only to 0.2.
Surface looks amazing. The bracket feels like a solid chunk of carbon also. Nice.
I wonder if even need to anneal it or not, it looks perfectly solid as is.
So annoyed I got only 1 spool of it when it was at $47, they jerked it back to $58 now.
Surface looks amazing. The bracket feels like a solid chunk of carbon also. Nice.
I wonder if even need to anneal it or not, it looks perfectly solid as is.
So annoyed I got only 1 spool of it when it was at $47, they jerked it back to $58 now.
I printed other part without enclosure at .12mm - it had a much worse surface, but it closed up after 40 minutes at 105deg Celsius in the over.
I wonder if I still should anneal this one too or not. Looks damn nice as is.
Anyone have a higher-end printer?
Currently have a Stratasys uPrint SE Plus, which was a $25,000 machine when new. It has a heated build chamber and can print 8x8x6” for days. But material has to be purchased from Stratasys, parts can be expensive and I’d like to print nylon, TPU etc.
Believe the Stratasys patents on heated build chamber have expired so their must be some “Prosumer” machines around.
Currently have a Stratasys uPrint SE Plus, which was a $25,000 machine when new. It has a heated build chamber and can print 8x8x6” for days. But material has to be purchased from Stratasys, parts can be expensive and I’d like to print nylon, TPU etc.
Believe the Stratasys patents on heated build chamber have expired so their must be some “Prosumer” machines around.
ok, i want to update to later marlin, for my printer, with the BLTouch support and want to have higher temp and the support for the filament end sensor, if i decide to use it.
there is a main git branch in there with releases page -
github.com
from that one can compile his own build, awesome sauce, i absolutely DO NOT want to do that.
there was an older fork for the 2.0.1 marlin where some guy did a heckload of compiled releases -
github.com
seems like last is from Nov 2021.
Is there any any other fork there with a bunch of properly compiled latest marlins for ender 3 v2 specifically 4.2.2 board as i absolutely hate the idea to spend more hours understanding what options to set, get the arduino compiler installed again and mess with all this incomprehensible undocumented shit i hate so much doing. it is like a full time job to deal with those recompiles, all i want is a firmware with those 3 specific options - higher temp to 275 or 285, BLTouch, filament end sensor - does the known universe have such a compiled .bin firmware file somewhere i can download it from?
there is a main git branch in there with releases page -
Releases · MarlinFirmware/Marlin
Marlin is an optimized firmware for RepRap 3D printers based on the Arduino platform. Many commercial 3D printers come with Marlin installed. Check with your vendor if you need source code for your...
github.com
there was an older fork for the 2.0.1 marlin where some guy did a heckload of compiled releases -
Releases · Jyers/Marlin
Marlin is an optimized firmware for RepRap 3D printers based on the Arduino platform. | Many commercial 3D printers come with Marlin installed. Check with your vendor if you need source code for yo...
github.com
seems like last is from Nov 2021.
Is there any any other fork there with a bunch of properly compiled latest marlins for ender 3 v2 specifically 4.2.2 board as i absolutely hate the idea to spend more hours understanding what options to set, get the arduino compiler installed again and mess with all this incomprehensible undocumented shit i hate so much doing. it is like a full time job to deal with those recompiles, all i want is a firmware with those 3 specific options - higher temp to 275 or 285, BLTouch, filament end sensor - does the known universe have such a compiled .bin firmware file somewhere i can download it from?
Is this for an Ender 3?ok, i want to update to later marlin, for my printer, with the BLTouch support and want to have higher temp and the support for the filament end sensor, if i decide to use it.
there is a main git branch in there with releases page -
from that one can compile his own build, awesome sauce, i absolutely DO NOT want to do that.Releases · MarlinFirmware/Marlin
Marlin is an optimized firmware for RepRap 3D printers based on the Arduino platform. Many commercial 3D printers come with Marlin installed. Check with your vendor if you need source code for your...
there was an older fork for the 2.0.1 marlin where some guy did a heckload of compiled releases -
Releases · Jyers/Marlin
Marlin is an optimized firmware for RepRap 3D printers based on the Arduino platform. | Many commercial 3D printers come with Marlin installed. Check with your vendor if you need source code for yo...
seems like last is from Nov 2021.
Is there any any other fork there with a bunch of properly compiled latest marlins for ender 3 v2 specifically 4.2.2 board as i absolutely hate the idea to spend more hours understanding what options to set, get the arduino compiler installed again and mess with all this incomprehensible undocumented shit i hate so much doing. it is like a full time job to deal with those recompiles, all i want is a firmware with those 3 specific options - higher temp to 275 or 285, BLTouch, filament end sensor - does the known universe have such a compiled .bin firmware file somewhere i can download it from?
What board revision?
ender 3 v2, 32 bit 4.2.2 board.
and i have, actually, a CR sensor, one from creality itself, but the BL sensor. no clue if it requires a diff code or same.
i also saw in the youtube that is can be a high speed or slow speed - no clue yet what that means.
i just had a long meeting with mentally challenged individuals, so feel a bit more infuriated than usual, sorry.
i do not know if the firmware with the filament end sensor will or will not work without the sensor.
as of max temp - i have all stock parts and just steel nozzle and updated tubes, so i guess the 285 is the possible safe max?
also do not know which version is safest to go with - 2.1.1, or 2.0.x, or whatever.
if you could compile it for me it would be greatly appreciated.
While the patent was valid, vendors worked around it by doing heated beds; My printer had a list price with one fewer zeros, was nylon-capable straight out of the box. There are now several options for "hard enclosure" printers but still nothing in the prosumer range with an insulated metal build chamber and active heat management.
Heated chamber becomes important when you move up to the exotics like PEEK (+$500/kg), folks with that kind of consumables budget seem to be okay with spending $5k-$150k on a printer.
PM me a emailender 3 v2, 32 bit 4.2.2 board.
and i have, actually, a CR sensor, one from creality itself, but the BL sensor. no clue if it requires a diff code or same.
i also saw in the youtube that is can be a high speed or slow speed - no clue yet what that means.
i just had a long meeting with mentally challenged individuals, so feel a bit more infuriated than usual, sorry.
i do not know if the firmware with the filament end sensor will or will not work without the sensor.
as of max temp - i have all stock parts and just steel nozzle and updated tubes, so i guess the 285 is the possible safe max?
also do not know which version is safest to go with - 2.1.1, or 2.0.x, or whatever.
if you could compile it for me it would be greatly appreciated.
I'll compile a version with and without the filament runout
BL Touch and CR Touch use the same interface.
I can set the max temp to 300°C which gives you a max temp of 285°C (overshoot of 15°)
I don't have a 4.2.2 board so I can't test but you can just reload a stock firmware
Sweet of pastera to help you out.
So I'll just clarify some of your questions:
BLtouch and CR touch work differently, but it's the same code set in the firmware.
High vs slow speed is just how quickly the probing is done with the CR touch. At HS and couple tweaks, I'm doing a 5x5 mesh with 2 probes each in 90 seconds. Otherwise could take ~4 minutes.
The printer should run fine without filament sensor plugged in, you can dis/enable it from menu
2.1.1 is latest stable release and works great as far as I can tell. Been using it for a couple weeks.
High speed probing doesn't retract the probe between movements - if something goes wrong you can break your probe.
Not worth the time saved - probe the mesh, save and it just works (I enabled restore after G28 so the mesh come back active once homed)
You don't save and reload the mesh?
for the 2.1.1 - i guess the startup code can remain as is? nothing new should be added to it?
what i have now is this:
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 ; Auto bed-level CR Touch
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
