i do not - i understood that depending upon the temperature of the bed and other factors it is moving enough to be worth to be re-measured?
also, a 4 minutes measure on top of, like, 20 hour print - meh.
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3D printing
- Thread starter NH Phantom
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also, a 4 minutes measure on top of, like, 20 hour print - meh.
pastera
NES Member
If you are printing on glass then the mesh won't change enough to make a difference over different temperatures
On a flex bed it can change quite a bit across temps.
I simply reload the mesh on my Ender because it is so small
I do a 5x5 mesh every time on the X5SA because even with the glass the bed is big enough to make a (very small) difference
pastera
NES Member
Have to laugh at that - I always tell myself I'm going to weight my spool but then it finds its way onto the printer all by itself
That's incorrect. It fully retracts between probes and movements. There is no risk with damaging the probe with my config and the CR touch
I do. But PETG will sometimes require flexing my pei bed to get off. Move the bed, probe again.
I weigh my spools when I inventory them and the empty spools when done. They've been between 135g and 185g for the cheap brands I use. Here's a wiki with a bunch of empty spool weights: Spool weight - 3dPrintingWiki
pastera
NES Member
What Is the BLTouch High Speed (HS) Mode? (Explained) - 3D Print Beast
An automatic bed leveling sensor, such as the BLTouch, is perhaps the very first upgrade that you should add to your 3D printer if it doesn't already come
www.3dprintbeast.com
Not sure which HS mode you are referring to then.
My bad. You're correct. Had to check my probing, it was just clicking. Combined with Z movement and it looked like it retracted.What Is the BLTouch High Speed (HS) Mode? (Explained) - 3D Print Beast
An automatic bed leveling sensor, such as the BLTouch, is perhaps the very first upgrade that you should add to your 3D printer if it doesn't already come
Not sure which HS mode you are referring to then.
But with how it Z ups before movement, it still shouldn't be hitting anything on the bed. I see a 5mm clearance. But prob better to be safe than sorry.
pastera
NES Member
I don't use HS mode but agree that it shouldn't be an issue.
I don't know if newer firmware prevents damage but if you keep your probing away from any clips then the chance of damage is really low.
what do you folks use to convert STL into CAD model for editing and altering?
i installed the DesignSpark Mechanical 5.0 that looked exactly what needed - but it is so SLOW, it is insane. slow and glitchy and tends to hang on surface pull operation randomly, i cannot figure out yet why it happens so often.
google gives this link - but i wanted to ask first before trying to pull this stuff and test it all myself. Ideall i look for something that would resemble an AutoCAD or PCAD or any standard UI for CAD, pretty much.
The simpler the better, of course. Blender is extremely unintuitive for me, i opened it and just closed it.
www.sculpteo.com
i installed the DesignSpark Mechanical 5.0 that looked exactly what needed - but it is so SLOW, it is insane. slow and glitchy and tends to hang on surface pull operation randomly, i cannot figure out yet why it happens so often.
google gives this link - but i wanted to ask first before trying to pull this stuff and test it all myself. Ideall i look for something that would resemble an AutoCAD or PCAD or any standard UI for CAD, pretty much.
The simpler the better, of course. Blender is extremely unintuitive for me, i opened it and just closed it.
The Top 7 Free STL Editors to Edit and Repair your STL files
Edit and repair your STL files? Discover the top 7 best free STL editors and Sculpteo's tools to help you improve your design for 3D Printing.
www.sculpteo.com
Got a spool of new material on - print at 270 nozzle 95 bed
Link:
Amazon product ASIN B074DS3986View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074DS3986/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00
Link:
Amazon product ASIN B074DS3986View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074DS3986/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00
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What are these beautiful mystery parts you are printing?
life-size vaginas for masturbation, made out of best non-crushable carbon fiber enforced pc material.
pastera
NES Member
I use fusion 360 but going from stl to a parametric model sucks however you do it.what do you folks use to convert STL into CAD model for editing and altering?
i installed the DesignSpark Mechanical 5.0 that looked exactly what needed - but it is so SLOW, it is insane. slow and glitchy and tends to hang on surface pull operation randomly, i cannot figure out yet why it happens so often.
google gives this link - but i wanted to ask first before trying to pull this stuff and test it all myself. Ideall i look for something that would resemble an AutoCAD or PCAD or any standard UI for CAD, pretty much.
The simpler the better, of course. Blender is extremely unintuitive for me, i opened it and just closed it.
The Top 7 Free STL Editors to Edit and Repair your STL files
Edit and repair your STL files? Discover the top 7 best free STL editors and Sculpteo's tools to help you improve your design for 3D Printing.
What is it you want to modify?
Well it is a theoretical question.
Latest one was a bracket for same printer- I want to put an led strip in there, and an existing bracket model for filament guide works fine as a donor, just need to alter the end and stretch the hanger.
That is where mechanics gui would hang.
It is not critical, just was curious of who uses what.
Generally it is going to be much easier to modify the mesh without trying to go back to .STEP or such.
Meshmixer can do simple fixes, adding holes and changing dimensions can be accomplished via the cloud-based TinkerCAD.
Tinkercad is best in my experience. Quick and easy for small changes. F360 was a bloody pain to get the mesh into a usable state.
I have a commercial license of SolidWorks. Something like a bracket takes minutes to model. Worked on a project for another member here and made the model in a couple of minutes. If you send me a sketch I can knock it out.
NH Phantom
NES Member
Anyone know of a place where I can get small amount of PLA? I need to do a couple small 2 hour prints and don't want to buy a full roll . red and green
PLA is, like, a $12 on amazon.
ok, went up a buck. i kinda liked how it prints, this pla+ thing.
Amazon product ASIN B08NJCB9C4View: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08NJCB9C4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Besides microcenter, I haven't seen any b&m store sell filament.
Amazon has a bunch of "sample" size rolls, ranging from 15g per color to 300g.
We've got filament to spare up in Manchester, but I think our only spools of red are ABS.
MakeIt Labs (Nashua's makerspace) is just across the river from Hudson. You just missed their Thursday night open house, there's almost certainly a member who could help.
i printed a bit more with that $48 priline PC-CF and so mad at it, it goes back to amazon for a refund.
on a more complex models with bridges and tree supports, at mere 265 deg nozzle it started collecting tons of junk on the nozzle, making huge build-ups, it is not a polycarbonate base for sure, it melts way lower than it is supposed to. and clogged.
i had a small bit of superhard pc-cf left, started printing it - it started clogging too. i took all apart, whole nozzle, and all inside was covered in the melted black goo mess from that $48 priline pc-cf.
now with a new steel nozzle and tube end cut it prints superhard priline pc-cf at 285 nozzle for 10+ hours, and so far so good.
i am not deviating anymore, it is the one and only stuff to use, and it seems like there is nothing else on amazon anyway comparable to it.
Amazon product ASIN B0929F9KG9View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0929F9KG9
I have read that carbon fiber cannot handle intense shocks well (the layers will delaminate and fail similar to standard PLA), and that CF blends are not recommended for firearm or firearm accessory printing for this reason. Best to go with Nylon and straight Polycarbonate although they are relatively difficult to print.
says who?
i sent the link to that filament above - priline superhard polycarbonate carbon fiber.
it is a blend with ABS, i think (or who knows what with, anyway), as it prints best at 270-275, way under a pure PC and it is a bit brittle, but still way stronger than any PLA. holds shocks pretty well on anything, but, gets soft at 105-110C. it usually goes for around of $48 for 1kg on sale, $59 regular. so far it is a cheapest filament of that class, that is worth it, i think. when printed in 0.12mm layers it is stupid strong.
and better ones of the professional grade go for a $50 for 500g.
there are always better materials out there, but, cost is always a factor. as much as i would like this shit
CarbonX™ High-Performance Carbon Fiber ezPC+CF 3D Printing Filament | Made in the USA!
CarbonX™ ezPC+CF 3D printing filament is made using our easy to print ezPC Polycarbonate & reinforced with premium high-modulus carbon fiber.
www.3dxtech.com
i did not try yet any of more recent PLA+ CF mixes, as those exist as well and some say they are pretty decent.
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The FOSSCAD groups tend to go for CF+Nylon blends, printed from an upsized 0.6 or even 0.8mm hardened steel nozzle.
'groups' are good with advices - like to use this one:
Amazon product ASIN B07Z3CD7DXView: https://www.amazon.com/AMIDEX-PA6-GF30-Glass-Reinforced-1-75mm/dp/B07Z3CD7DX
at $57 for 500g they can shove it up their ass - sideways.
polymaker has a reasonably priced pa6-gf filament that seems to be ok, but it is bad with overhangs. pa12-cf and pa6-cf are all priced above the level where feels like worth experimenting with, like a polymaker pa12-cf goes now for $80 per 500g, and reviews on amazon are quite mixed. so, if you want to experiment - feel free, your money.
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Yeah it was one of those "groups" that suggested it. I wasn't saying you have to do it or that even I would, just passing along info.
What hotend temp sensor are you using for elevated temperatures?
so far i see no issues at all using bone stock hotend from ender 3 v2. just swapped out nozzle for steel and tubing for capricorn.
firmware recompiled for 300 max temp in it, so it sets factual temp up to 285 and so far it has no issues.
none of cheaper filaments work well on 285 even, they want less, as i think most companies alter mixes they bake to accommodate mainstream stock ender units.
again, it means NONE of PA06 or PC mixes that say they print at 240-265 are what they say they are, it is a mixed in ABS or PETG and the smell test during printing will tell you what was done.
the superhard priline does not like 285 at all - 275 is optimal there. but printer handles 285 fine and nothing clogs or has any issues so far. if i see any i can upgrade the hotend, but so far for what i use it for - i see no reason to do it. a regular priline pc-cf is pure shit, i think it is an almost pure rebranded petg, with no PC in it at all.
i had some ideas to do some custom car manifold parts in glass nylon, but do not want to venture there yet. it will wait. polymaker has some pa6-gf for $35 per 500g right now, but it seems people say it is good for flat parts only, as usual, needs to have 50deg bed only, then be annealed at 80deg later and warps during that process.
if you really after printing lowers or glocks - i still think the superhard pc-cf is probably the best, but, i think it is more practical just to buy a p80 80% frame and save yourself the hassle.
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