AR Barrel swap

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Looking for information on removing/replacing barrels on AR type rifles. I want to take the 20" barrel from my A3 Bushmaster and swap it with the 14.5" (+brake) barrel from my A2 carbine. This way I end up with a flattop carbine and a standard (fixed handle)model rifle. Is this something I could do with proper tools or do I need a gunsmith? Anyone ever do this? Any info or help would be appreciated.

Chris
 
I've done two of mine with 11.5 inch with extended flash suppressor (the one that includes a front sight post). You'll need a punch for the gas tube retaining pin. A punch for the front sight post pins(if not included on the barrel) a small hammer (brass is best so you don't ding any steel), An AR-15/M16 barrel wrench and maybe a pair of pliers (jaws padded with tape) depending on how tight your gas tube is and how difficult it removes and a pair of snap ring pliers for the retainer that holds the handguard keeper.

The barrels are basically plug and play. I used Bushmaster barrels on mine and both are very accurate. One thing I did have to do was stone down some burrs on the locking lugs where the feed ramps are. They were scratching the bullet badly on feeding, leaving copper filings in the breech area.

There is a torqueing proceedure..... Look here

http://ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=142139
 
No experience doing it. Know of one person who did it incorrectly and cracked the upper receiver. It's definitely something you can do at home with the proper tools, I think he had it in the vice wrong.
 
Add...

A good heavy duty vise and receiver vise blocks and/or barrel vise blocks.

Needle nose pliers work good for spreading the handguard retaining ring spring clip.

Moly grease for the barell nut. Tighten down the nut 3 times to seat everything, then torque it down.

A number 15 drill bit is helpful for lining up the barrel nut notches with the gas tube hole in the receiver.

Auto-Zone has free tool rentals for the torque wrench (I was laughing to myself the time they asked what kind of vehicle it was for).

The muzzle brake needs to be permanently attached per NFA regs and the MA AWB.
 
Thanks for the information. Anyone know if there is a local source for AR specific tools or do I need to buy from internet or mail order?


Chris
 
Know of one person who did it incorrectly and cracked the upper receiver.

Make sure you use a receiver block to prevent this. I prefer the clamshell type that Bushmaster sells, but I've heard good things about one DPMS sells as well.

The special tools I have are a Busmaster rec block & DPMS wrench. As stated by others you'll also need a small punch, snap ring pliers and torque wrench.

I've swapped one & built a couple up from new parts and they've all gone smoothly. Just take your time and read through the write-ups a couple of time before you start.

CD
 
Make sure you use a receiver block to prevent this. I prefer the clamshell type that Bushmaster sells, but I've heard good things about one DPMS sells as well.

CD

Is the DPMS set the one with the insert that goes inside the receiver?
Seems like a good idea to prevent the receiver from being pinched or deformed.


Also (for CX)...

The front sight base pins are usually tapered (I believe they come out from left to right), however, it might vary from one manufacturer to another (RRA uses straight pins).
 
DPMS actually has two types now, they have the clamshell with and insert and they also have block that connects to the receiver using the takedown pins. I believer you're correct about the left to right on most FSB pins. Luckily I haven't had to deal with that yet.
 
If you only intend on swapping the one barrel, it might be more cost effective to just bring it to a local gunsmith who has the experience. We have a local guy here in southern NH who is very reasonable and has the knowledge to do it right.
 
If you only intend on swapping the one barrel, it might be more cost effective to just bring it to a local gunsmith who has the experience. We have a local guy here in southern NH who is very reasonable and has the knowledge to do it right.

Would you mind PMing me his contact info or posting it for all to see?

Chris
 
Chris, you might want to check with Harry Cakounes on Rte.1 in Saugus, he does work on US military weapons. I had him rebarrel an M1917 for me a few years ago and he does excellent work. He does take his time doing work, so expect a long delay in getting the work done. I have his phone # somewhere, I'll PM it to ya if I can find it.
 
Chris, you might want to check with Harry Cakounes on Rte.1 in Saugus, he does work on US military weapons. I had him rebarrel an M1917 for me a few years ago and he does excellent work. He does take his time doing work, so expect a long delay in getting the work done. I have his phone # somewhere, I'll PM it to ya if I can find it.

From what I have researched, my job is fairly simple with the correct tools and experience. I'll give Harry a call when I get the number, Rte.1 in Saugus is only 10 minutes from my house. I really do not want to wait a long time, though. Maybe he can do a "rush" job for a fellow Greek.

Chris
 
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