AR in x39?

andrew1220 said:
Trying to get the bear creek barrel nut off last night. No success. Not sure if it’s loctitedView attachment 649633

I ordered one of these crowfeet wrench attachments for my torque wrench. Wish me luck 😂. If I can’t budge it I’ll bring it to Steve at northeast arms
Crowfoot Nut Wrench 1-3/16" Opening - - Amazon.com
Click to expand...
it takes some practice.
use a heat gun on it, make it decently hot. then i use there a solid adjustable cast iron wrench attached to a 2ft crowbar, and you jerk it down to undo the nut.

the crowfoot you posted i am afraid if a usual chinese sh$t that will split apart after 30-35ft/lb torque and you need there close to a 100-150 to undo an old joint. plus this stupid wrench it too thin - if it is all you can use - you need to put 2 of them there as a sandwich, not one, or it will cut into the nut. hope your vise is sturdy enough and mounted right to sustain that torque.

make sure to lube the nut and barrel properly after you seat it - with proper lube it comes apart fine.
one little box of that lube is enough for life, apply it well into threads.
Amazon product ASIN B01GGQMF54View: https://www.amazon.com/Umbrella-Corporation-AeroShell-Grease-Mil-Spec/dp/B01GGQMF54
 
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Coyote33 said:
From Wikipedia. So, are they ALL wrong?
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I won't say they are all wrong, but I'd say 75+% of them prove the adage "just because you can doesn't mean you should."

I "get" .22LR. I also get the pistol calibers. 350 Legend? Sure, if only to exploit legal loopholes. 300 BLK? I haven't read a lot about it recently, but if I was reloading I'd certainly choose it over kludging up an x39. 6.5 Grendel or 6.8 SPC? It seems like the "cool kids" have all shifted to 6.5 Creedmoor, but both seemed to be reasonable tradeoffs of power and capacity. I'll grudgingly give you .458 SOCOM. .50 Beowulf? As far as I can tell, it suffers from the same issues as a x39 build.

I'm willing to be schooled on the requirements that led to the other rounds on the list, but the market seems to be speaking loudly and clearly. And as .277 Fury comes into the market, I suspect you'll see even fewer people using alternative AR chamberings.
 
Coyote33 said:
Click to expand...
Coyote33 said:
Click to expand...

Parker Schreiber said:
I won't say they are all wrong, but I'd say 75+% of them prove the adage "just because you can doesn't mean you should."
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I think most of the ones above are pretty popular.

.277 "Fury"?? You sure you don't mean a .277 Wolverine? If not, why the new one?
 
Coyote33 said:
I think most of the ones above are pretty popular.
Click to expand...

Really? How many have even 1% of the AR market?

Coyote33 said:
.277 "Fury"?? You sure you don't mean a .277 Wolverine? If not, why the new one?
Click to expand...

Nope. I mean the new round and rifle contract for by the US Army earlier this year. As for why, because it will appeal to the "operator" wannabees.
 
paul73 said:
it takes some practice.
use a heat gun on it, make it decently hot. then i use there a solid adjustable cast iron wrench attached to a 2ft crowbar, and you jerk it down to undo the nut.

the crowfoot you posted i am afraid if a usual chinese sh$t that will split apart after 30-35ft/lb torque and you need there close to a 100-150 to undo an old joint. plus this stupid wrench it too thin - if it is all you can use - you need to put 2 of them there as a sandwich, not one, or it will cut into the nut. hope your vise is sturdy enough and mounted right to sustain that torque.

make sure to lube the nut and barrel properly after you seat it - with proper lube it comes apart fine.
one little box of that lube is enough for life, apply it well into threads.
Amazon product ASIN B01GGQMF54View: https://www.amazon.com/Umbrella-Corporation-AeroShell-Grease-Mil-Spec/dp/B01GGQMF54
Click to expand...
If I need a heat gun and that much torque I may just bring it to northeast arms. I’m going to give it a try but not force it as I don’t have a heat gun. The vise I have is bolted into a fairly sturdy work bench but not sure if it can handle that much torque.
I believe it’s a US made part and it’s beefy
593E15D1-0CE3-41D8-BC0F-A0FDDB952464.jpeg

Reviews were good including these 2 that said it worked on their bear creek barrel nuts. We shall see!
8AF53CB0-4A28-4E88-822E-45266F8557FC.jpeg 79531E2E-288E-4CFB-938E-FC8C5B2C58C4.jpeg
 
andrew1220 said:
If I need a heat gun and that much torque I may just bring it to northeast arms. I’m going to give it a try but not force it as I don’t have a heat gun. The vise I have is bolted into a fairly sturdy work bench but not sure if it can handle that much torque.
I believe it’s a US made part and it’s beefy
View attachment 649838

Reviews were good including these 2 that said it worked on their bear creek barrel nuts. We shall see!
View attachment 649839View attachment 649840
Click to expand...
All you need is this. Stop f***ing around.

6656620-11.jpg
 
Atlantis said:
So I want to keep training, and I don't want to switch platforms to AK, and I don't want to burn through my stockpile nor do I want to pay the price that 5.56 is going for.

Naturally, I decided to build a frankengun, and will be building an AR Pistol in 7.62x39.

I found a nice build kit for $489, seems to be pro2a anti tyranny in terms of shipping, and the only complaint I have is the crappy pistol tube brace that will become something sensible like an SBA3/4 brace.

Specs on the build kit
  • Made in the USA
  • Mil-Spec Lower Parts Kit
  • Mil-Spec 7075 T6 Upper Receiver with Dust Cover and Forward Assist
  • 10.5" 1:10 Twist 4150 Barrel with Black Nitride Finish
  • Chambered in 7.62X39
  • Carbine Length Gas System
  • .750 Low Profile Gas Block
  • 10" Free Float M-LOK Hand Guard
  • Bolt Carrier Group
  • Charging Handle
STONER 10rd mags for compliance. I believe there are a 30 round variety for when I live in a free state as well.

Questions:

Anyone ran a setup like this? Do you like it?
Would an A2 flash hider make it not "terrible" in terms of blast/flash? My 10.5 5.56 is pretty tolerable with an A2?
Are there any better suggestions than a MA-Lock for complying with the fixed mag requirements of MA? Something that meets the requirements but is a little easier to reload than breaking the action with a takedown pin every 10 rounds?
Mag issues? Suggestions?
What about buffer and spring weights? Any advice? Thinking maybe I want a heavy buffer?
Click to expand...
I have a AR in 7.62x39 10.5, 1:10 twist rate. I used a poly lower and mil spec lower parts kit. I used a kak flash hider, that thing shoots a pretty good flame out of it and It's loud. Used a standard ar spring and a 3.5 buffer cycles fine. I do use ASC mags that are made for 7.62x39. It's not as if I shoot 500 rds a week it sits in the safe alot. 7.62 steel is now more expensive then 223 steel.
 

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andrew1220 said:
Trying to get the bear creek barrel nut off last night. No success. Not sure if it’s loctitedView attachment 649633

I ordered one of these crowfeet wrench attachments for my torque wrench. Wish me luck 😂. If I can’t budge it I’ll bring it to Steve at northeast arms
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07YBHRYP9?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image
Click to expand...
No luck 🤣
I put most of my body weight on it and it still wouldn’t budge. Didn’t want to go any harder and I don’t have a heat gun so I’m just going to drop it off with northeast arms. He’s got all of the tools
 
andrew1220 said:
I put most of my body weight on it and it still wouldn’t budge
Click to expand...
if you do not have a heat gun nor torch - do you have at least a candle in the house? lit it up and let burn under it for 5 min or so, flame touching steel, it will heat it up.
then try to smack crowbar with a hammer or mullet, if you have any. the trick is to dislodge the nut.

but if they did set it on a red loctite indeed, it may be difficult.

>Didn’t want to go any harder
why? :) if you not ripping out vise from the table - you cannot do much damage there. but, it is your gun, so, do what feels right.
it`s just dealing with smiths on stuff like that may end up costing more than the upper and barrel altogether. labor costs suck, especially on a simple stuff like that.
 
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paul73 said:
if you do not have a heat gun nor torch - do you have at least a candle in the house? lit it up and let burn under it for 5 min or so, flame touching steel, it will heat it up.
then try to smack crowbar with a hammer or mullet, if you have any. the trick is to dislodge the nut.

but if they did set it on a red loctite indeed, it may be difficult.

>Didn’t want to go any harder
why? :) if you not ripping out vise from the table - you cannot do much damage there. but, it is your gun, so, do what feels right.
it`s just dealing with smiths on stuff like that may end up costing more than the upper and barrel altogether. labor costs suck, especially on a simple stuff like that.
Click to expand...
Lol gotcha.

No Steve is reasonable on labor costs. I’m just going to wait until I get the new barrel from primary arms and drop everything off with him.
 
New diamondback barrel arrived. Nice finish compared to the BCA. The gas port is noticeably larger than the BCA so an adjustable gas port should be helpful.

Feed ramp is narrower and steeper which has me concerned about feeding issues. Threads appear be oversized (compared to BCA) as the muzzle device from the BCA barrel won’t thread on.

This may be more trouble than it’s worth just to have a lighter weight barrel 😂 D3583C6B-DCFC-417D-A3E6-FA7861C6D91D.jpeg
 
andrew1220 said:
New diamondback barrel arrived. Nice finish compared to the BCA. The gas port is noticeably larger than the BCA so an adjustable gas port should be helpful.

Feed ramp is narrower and steeper which has me concerned about feeding issues. Threads appear be oversized (compared to BCA) as the muzzle device from the BCA barrel won’t thread on.

This may be more trouble than it’s worth just to have a lighter weight barrel 😂 View attachment 650632
Click to expand...
Steve at Northeast Arms was able to get it off today. Holy f***! BCA drenched the barrel nut in red Loctite. Steve had to get the damn thing red hot with a large torque wrench and a few blows with a hammer. He said that’s the most difficult barrel nut he’s ever encountered.

Had him install the new barrel gas block etc. so interested to see how it functions at the range.
 

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