AR15 first timer. To build or not to build?

Stiggy

Stiggy

Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
356
Likes
15
Location
Free-stater
Feedback: 1 / 0 / 0
Tax season is here and I am slated for a decent return. I want an AR, but not sure if it's wise to build one for a first-timer. I would like to spend >$1000 total. I want it basic to start off. Iron sights, carry handle and maybe a single point sling.

I've watched a few build videos on youtube, looks pretty straight forward, especially if I get an assembled lower. Any suggestions on this? Maybe a general direction to point me in?
 
Having both bought and built (a lower only) I would say that with your budget to partially build:

Build your lower - LPK's can be had under $75 down to about $50 - Lower receivers are all over the place in cost depending on mfgr. Get the stock/buffer/tube you want and the range goes from $75 to $275. Ask for help here assembling it all - tools are simple but the process has some tricks that are worth the cost of lunch to repay your "teacher"

The advantage is learning all the components and operation of the lower half of your rifle. Tough to put a value on that but something to consider.

uppers:
figure out what style/type upper config you want and start shopping. Don't overlook used equipment either.

If I were to get an upper today (and believe me this changes quickly sometimes) I would get a 16" middy flat top receiver upper - this offers the flexible options for customizing - the middy rails can be had easily and with very little cost increase over the carbine stuff. The longer sight plane is a plus at every level. All the fold down BUIS work, etc.

Many here recommend the full auto BCG as an instant upgrade - I am considering this for my own rifles too

Do not forget to budget in the small hard/software such as sling mounts, a sling, mags, etc. It adds up fast but is interchangeable with every AR

Good luck and post pics
 
It is simple to assemble an AR, just do some homework check out AR15.com and all the other AR web sites. There are also many books and videos to be had. The hardest part is when a spring goes THWANG and across the room into the Abyss. 1000 is a good range for a simple build with some add goodies.
 
Thanks for the replies.

Sprocket, a 16" flat top is what I have been eyeing. I want to start off with a carry handle/iron sight combo.Maybe move up to an optiic later on.

What is a BUIS? Or a BCG?

I am a lefty, can I install the safety on the right side of the receiver? I have never been able to get a straight answer from my local FFL's.
 
Stiggy said:
Thanks for the replies.

Sprocket, a 16" flat top is what I have been eyeing. I want to start off with a carry handle/iron sight combo.Maybe move up to an optiic later on.

What is a BUIS? Or a BCG?

I am a lefty, can I install the safety on the right side of the receiver? I have never been able to get a straight answer from my local FFL's.
Click to expand...


BUIS is Back Up Iron Sight
BCG is Bolt Carrier Group (Highly recommend the BCM BCG if you can find it in stock)

As far as being a leftly maybe look at the Stag uppers that are made specifically for a left handed shooter.
 
Heads up on the Stag left hand models, if you buy a complete rifle you still have the same RH controls on the lower, Unless they have changed this.
I just buy ambi-controls both safety and mag-release norgon ambi mag catch. Is a bit pricey for a small 1 part, but it works. Haveing the shells eject from the left side is not a big deal to me+ you will have to make sure to stock up on the BCG parts dedicated to the lefty. I own 2 stags one I purchased complete the other I put together. No problems at all with many Ks of rounds. I own right hand models and shoot lefty
 
mac1911 said:
It is simple to assemble an AR, just do some homework check out AR15.com and all the other AR web sites. There are also many books and videos to be had. The hardest part is when a spring goes THWANG and across the room into the Abyss. 1000 is a good range for a simple build with some add goodies.
Click to expand...

Sadly, that happened to my bolt release spring. I put it together without it-works fine, a little rattle, but other than that, it works fine.
I built my first (and only) AR a few years back. It was a good learning experience. I used a book, I think its titled "Build your own AR15", or something like that. I would suggest that to use. If I could figure it out with that book, anyone can.
 
Stiggy said:
Are there any brands I should stay away from?
Click to expand...

There are folks who will post things like: "But my Bushmaster has been just dandy", or "My Olympic has been dead-nuts reliable"...Everyone has their ideal of what they think an AR is...Reality can be a bit different. If you're buying off the rack, I would choose these models last:

Bushmaster
Olympic Arms
Rock River
DPMS

Look into:

Smith&Wesson
Stag
BCM

Everything else I can recommend is above your budget, (LMT, Noveske, Colt, LaRue, etc). However, for a really good value on a really well-made gun, contact John over at Remsport. He builds really nice stuff, right in your budget. He's also local, (you can literally drive to the place your gun is being made). You could have him build the entire thing, or only the parts you're not comfortable with....I think John is at SHOT, but give him a call (413) 589-9976. Someone will be there....
 
In put my A2 together for a little less than a grand, I spent more because I bought most of the tools along the way knowing that it would not be my last build. There is a lot of satisfaction in building one yourself and it's probably the best way to learn the platform. Like Massmark said earlier I doubt I would ever buy one off the rack again. If you decide to build there is a wealth of knowledge right here at NES not to mention all the web sites out there. Good luck.

Oh yea...there's nothing like the feeling of pulling the trigger for the first time on a gun you've built [laugh]
 
Last edited:
Stiggy said:
I think this is the route I am going to take. Looks like I can easily stay within my budget even after adding on a few goodies. A dealer near me has lowers in stock, I just need to see who the manu. is and research it.

Can 5.56 and 223 rounds be interchanged? What exactly is the difference?
Click to expand...

Rule of thumb:

.223 can be fired through 5.56 but not vice versa. The reason for this is that it wont fit, but the 5.56N round creates more pressure in the chamber than the standard .223 round.

The 5.56N round is generating upwards of 50,000 PSI while a .223 round is generating I posted a link on this before but can't seem to find it. The Firing Line has a thread about this as well, flatly, you want the 5.56N clambering over the .223 Remington chambering

1903Collector said:
I believe a Wylde Chamber can use either safely
Click to expand...

Thats is correct, also the Noveske Mod 0 chambering is one that can fire both.
 
Stiggy said:
http://www.del-ton.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RKT104

I am going build my AR from that Del-Ton kit. Seems like a great deal for having everything except the lower. I am going to opt for a flat-top, fold down front site and a RRA 2 stage trigger. I'll pick up a lower locally.
Click to expand...

Again, what are you going to do with it. As I said before, if you have any intention of putting your life in its hands I wouldn't even think of looking at Del-ton.
 
Everything I have read on AR15.com says Del-Ton is excellent, especially the kits.

It's going to be used for plinking, zombie attacks and SHTF situations.
 
Skald said:
Again, what are you going to do with it. As I said before, if you have any intention of putting your life in its hands I wouldn't even think of looking at Del-ton.
Click to expand...

Skald, not trying to be a smartass or anything but could you be more specific about DT, I also haven't heard any negatives about them, granted I don't spend a lot of time online researching this stuff. I ask because I was going to get a couple of lowers from them.
 
1903Collector said:
Skald, not trying to be a smartass or anything but could you be more specific about DT, I also haven't heard any negatives about them, granted I don't spend a lot of time online researching this stuff. I ask because I was going to get a couple of lowers from them.
Click to expand...

Don't see it as being a smartass. Its simple economics. In order for Del-Ton to be able to offer their kit at X price point their parts have to cost Y. What this means is taking parts whose tolerances are lower/fail the minimal TDP in reguards to the M4 Carbine as mandated by Colt. Thsse are the MINIMAL tolerances each part has to have to be considered reliable in a combat type weapon. Such things as MPI and HPT for barrels and BCGs etc.

I'm not saying go out and buy yourself a $2500 Noveske, but when your life is in your hands how confident are you in the firearm in your hands who's manufacturer used substandard (in terms of combat/fighting/SHTF) materials to make your firearm.
Again, if he was going to do a range gun say go with the Del-ton upper. But he could possible put his life in the hands of that weapon and am advising him to spend the extra for a BCM, Stag or S&W.
 
mac1911 said:
Heads up on the Stag left hand models, if you buy a complete rifle you still have the same RH controls on the lower, Unless they have changed this.
I just buy ambi-controls both safety and mag-release norgon ambi mag catch. Is a bit pricey for a small 1 part, but it works. Haveing the shells eject from the left side is not a big deal to me+ you will have to make sure to stock up on the BCG parts dedicated to the lefty. I own 2 stags one I purchased complete the other I put together. No problems at all with many Ks of rounds. I own right hand models and shoot lefty
Click to expand...

Stag now has left hand only safeties, a bit cheaper than the ambi ones. They shipped pretty quick, too.
 
Skald said:
Don't see it as being a smartass. Its simple economics. In order for Del-Ton to be able to offer their kit at X price point their parts have to cost Y. What this means is taking parts whose tolerances are lower/fail the minimal TDP in reguards to the M4 Carbine as mandated by Colt. Thsse are the MINIMAL tolerances each part has to have to be considered reliable in a combat type weapon. Such things as MPI and HPT for barrels and BCGs etc.

I'm not saying go out and buy yourself a $2500 Noveske, but when your life is in your hands how confident are you in the firearm in your hands who's manufacturer used substandard (in terms of combat/fighting/SHTF) materials to make your firearm.
Again, if he was going to do a range gun say go with the Del-ton upper. But he could possible put his life in the hands of that weapon and am advising him to spend the extra for a BCM, Stag or S&W.
Click to expand...


Makes sense to me, never really looked at that way. Thanks.
 
Here is a very nice complete upper which is ban compliant from model 1 sales, price looks very good:
http://www.model1sales.com/item-det...ustd20post.gif&CFID=58777310&CFTOKEN=13071352

I would recommend building the lower, very simple, go to Brownell's web site they have a free step by step video on putting the lower parts kit together.

Then you just have to screw on on a buttstock of choice and attach the upper to the lower- 5 seconds, and you are GTS.
 
I am going to assemble my own lower. I am in NH, so I don't care about ban compliancy. I'll have a drum mag collapsing stock and a bayolug for all I care!

Is head spacing something I need to worry about? If I get all my own seperate parts will it need to see a smith before firing it?
 
If you buy a compete upper assembly you should not need to worry about the head spacing.

If you are going to build the upper, you need to set the head spacing. Upper assembly is a lot more involved than putting a lower together.

Here is the link to the AR15 forum which shows complete step by step with pics for upper and lower assembly.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782
 
Stiggy said:
Is head spacing something I need to worry about? If I get all my own seperate parts will it need to see a smith before firing it?
Click to expand...

Head spacing is not a problem - the AR barrels you see advertised have already had the headspace set when the barrel extension (which the bolt locks into) was put on the barrel. It will take a barrel wrench & torque wrench to properly install the barrel into the upper receiver, but it is still just assembly work. I would strongly recommend that if you intend to use a pinned on front sight base or gas block, you buy a barrel with one installed already. Drilling, reaming and pinning those is not an impossible home job, but it is more difficult than putting the rest of the rifle together.
 
Thanks for the info everyone. I am now looking at Stag complete uppers. RRA uppers are looking good to me also. I still need to shop locally for my lower to see what I can get.
 

Similar threads

To live again...
Replies
10
Views
522
Fixxah
Fixxah
Help on which Rifle to choose
Replies
18
Views
374
P. Lopes
P. Lopes
Ar15 new handguard
Replies
2
Views
150
allen-1
allen-1
Posting a classified ad? Not sure what went wrong
Replies
3
Views
119
KBCraig
KBCraig
Geissele to release Ambi lower
Replies
4
Views
295
PatMcD
PatMcD
Back
Top Bottom