best press for precision reloading?

IMO Neck tension/seating force is actually pretty important in consistent bullet release and pressure. When loading precision stuff if I feel one that seats hard or different than the others that automatically goes into the fouling or practice ammo.
Any attempt at precision loading has long left my abilities, equipment

Sub 3 moa gear and skill set these days
6 moa aiming black , 4.5 lb trigger min

Some days I can get down to MOA but usually a few rings from the X when it happens, lol
 
Any attempt at precision loading has long left my abilities, equipment

Sub 3 moa gear and skill set these days
6 moa aiming black , 4.5 lb trigger min

Some days I can get down to MOA but usually a few rings from the X when it happens, lol
Nothing wrong being honest and content with what one can do my friend. Most important thing is you’re enjoying the ride.

To some that’s cleaning their primer pockets…😂
 
How consistent of a powder charge can the dillon drop ?

And neck sizing ?

Those would be my only concerns for good rifle ammo on a progressive press.
 
How consistent of a powder charge can the dillon drop ?

And neck sizing ?

Those would be my only concerns for good rifle ammo on a progressive press.

some powders will drop super consistent, you will have to test with your powder choice. If you are working with a powder combination that is not super sensitive to +/- .1g or .2g you can load very consistent ammo using normal progressive sequence.

Those would be my only concerns for good rifle ammo on a progressive press.

you don't have to load progressively on a progressive press.
there are many methods to load "precision ammo" on a progressive, this would be one:
use one toolhead setup for processing, use the case feeder and run through sizing and de-priming, either with one die or two separate dies. Then use one of the super fancy super expensive super accurate super consistent automatic powder measures to place a charge in each case, one at a time, or a batch in a row -whatever you like. Then use a different tool head with your bullet seating die to seat one at a time, using the same (marked) position on the shellplate for every round, if you don't fully cycle the handle the shellplate will not rotate. Basically using it like a single stage for this step, thus reducing any inconsistency of the 6 position shellplate
 
some powders will drop super consistent, you will have to test with your powder choice. If you are working with a powder combination that is not super sensitive to +/- .1g or .2g you can load very consistent ammo using normal progressive sequence.



you don't have to load progressively on a progressive press.
there are many methods to load "precision ammo" on a progressive, this would be one:
use one toolhead setup for processing, use the case feeder and run through sizing and de-priming, either with one die or two separate dies. Then use one of the super fancy super expensive super accurate super consistent automatic powder measures to place a charge in each case, one at a time, or a batch in a row -whatever you like. Then use a different tool head with your bullet seating die to seat one at a time, using the same (marked) position on the shellplate for every round, if you don't fully cycle the handle the shellplate will not rotate. Basically using it like a single stage for this step, thus reducing any inconsistency of the 6 position shellplate
I know more than few people loading 1 round at a time on progressives.

Years ago I remember seeing david Tubb on TV , maybe shooting sports usa. Talking about loading all the palma team ammo on dillon 550.

Then there is Richard Lee who talks about volume vs weight.

I think it comes down to . Have you completely squeezed every bit of skill out if tourself and capabilities out if you equipment that it comes down to reloading abilities? Maybe

I cant remember who said it , it could have been Tubb? something along the lines of
“If you think it matters , it does”

My “skills” have degraded with age and lack of shooting.
As I say , keeping them in the black of a SR target is a good day for me now
 
some powders will drop super consistent, you will have to test with your powder choice. If you are working with a powder combination that is not super sensitive to +/- .1g or .2g you can load very consistent ammo using normal progressive sequence.



you don't have to load progressively on a progressive press.
there are many methods to load "precision ammo" on a progressive, this would be one:
use one toolhead setup for processing, use the case feeder and run through sizing and de-priming, either with one die or two separate dies. Then use one of the super fancy super expensive super accurate super consistent automatic powder measures to place a charge in each case, one at a time, or a batch in a row -whatever you like. Then use a different tool head with your bullet seating die to seat one at a time, using the same (marked) position on the shellplate for every round, if you don't fully cycle the handle the shellplate will not rotate. Basically using it like a single stage for this step, thus reducing any inconsistency of the 6 position shellplate

I dont have any experience with the 750 , but merely going off of some reports from people saying the powder dispenser can be problematic.


From the sounds of it, a single stage press might be less frustration.
 
I dont have any experience with the 750 , but merely going off of some reports from people saying the powder dispenser can be problematic.


From the sounds of it, a single stage press might be less frustration.
The less moving parts the less to worry about.

As I said my attempts at anything “precision” was lost years ago

Prometheus Was all the word when it came to powder dispensing back then .

My “precision” shooting started and ended with a 700 action with a heavy bull barrel 223 shooting 80 gn bullets . For group size vs X ring. Short lived. I needed to travel to much to get passed 300 yards. Maybe now that the kids are close to grown I will slip back into it????
 
How consistent of a powder charge can the dillon drop ?

And neck sizing ?

Those would be my only concerns for good rifle ammo on a progressive press.
Depends on the powder some are more consistent and other not so much. That's why powder drop and tickler. I'm not dialing in anything I start single once I have something I like the one a 650 for plinking
 
Talk about simple. That Harrels press looks great with its diminutive size and built in clamp.

Personally, I like the option of an offset handle .
 
Serious question but why have a body die and neck die and not just full length resize if doing both?
I had the same question and contacted redding. The body dies sizes the body and pushes back the shoulder without resizing the neck. The bushing neck die resizes just the neck. I started with commercial ammo (Berger 144 HLRT, 6.5CR). I chose Berger because they use Lapua brass and the bullet I planned to use. I measured the external diameter of the necks and subtracted 0.002 for the bushing size. The idea is that this provides equal neck tension. Also, by not pulling an expander through the neck, you don't stretch the brass. So far, after two fire/reloads, the cartridge lenght has not changed.I have not gone down the neck turning rabbit hole yet. But I did buy some neolube for my next batch.
 
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I dont have any experience with the 750 , but merely going off of some reports from people saying the powder dispenser can be problematic.


From the sounds of it, a single stage press might be less frustration.
i posted somewhere here on what i did to the stock dillon measure to make it drop consistently in a batch mode. for me it matters only on .223 loads where it matters more than on .308 or 6.5cm if you got deviations of a fraction of a grain.

this new search feature here is totally useless, i cannot fond anything. bottom line, i got measure working more or less precise for me.

her is a factual illustration - i did set measure there for 25.7, but it ended to be more like 25.8 as i started loading, and i was only measuring the amount of load and setting them into the slots as it shows. there were total of 4 discards that were in 25.5-25.7 area, but nothing lower than 25.5. those 4 with too much are there in 25.9 - nothing was at 26 or more.
it was pretty much batch loading on my 750, only diff is that i was measuring it carefully, as i still intend to retest my other ar on this set.

i had to do a fair amount of work on a stock measure to make it drop like this, but now it 'just works'.
IMG_6060.jpeg
 
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The body dies sizes the body and pushes back the shoulder without resizing the neck. The bushing neck die resizes just the neck.
huh?

b/fl f1 die. full body and neck sizing. i have them on all my calibers sets.

the only grief i have with them - the black top of the die rusts.

1734212612559.png
 
I had the same question and contacted redding. The body dies sizes the body and pushes back the shoulder without resizing the neck. The bushing neck die resizes just the neck. I started with commercial ammo (Berger 144 HLRT, 6.5CR). I chose Berger because they use Lapua brass and the bullet I planned to use. I measured the external diameter of the necks and subtracted 0.002 for the bushing size. The idea is that this provides equal neck tension. Also, by not pulling an expander through the neck, you don't stretch the brass. So far, after two fire/reloads, the cartridge lenght has not changed.I have not gone down the neck turning rabbit hole yet. But I did buy some neolube for my next batch.
Type S full length sizing dies still utilize a bushing to size the neck to your desired neck tension. Accomplishes the same thing and removes a step.
 
huh?

b/fl f1 die. full body and neck sizing. i have them on all my calibers sets.

the only grief i have with them - the black top of the die rusts.

View attachment 945164
Clean them with soap and water and lightly brush loose rust off, then boil them for 15 min . After boiling them lightly brush off any loose crud with soft brush . Drop in a non detergent oil let it soak over night. Wipe off and apply something like wd40 or other light rust preventive . Dies that I dont use often get a vci pack or vci paper wrap
 
Serious question but why have a body die and neck die and not just full length resize if doing both?
Full length size. Forget about all this neck sizing BS.

Full size to bump the shoulder back 2 thousands.

DONE.

Also, using 750 as a single stage sounds like a huge PITA. F*ck that noise. If you want accuracy, get a good single stage and good dies.
 
Full length size. Forget about all this neck sizing BS.

Full size to bump the shoulder back 2 thousands.

DONE.

Also, using 750 as a single stage sounds like a huge PITA. F*ck that noise. If you want accuracy, get a good single stage and good dies

This is my setup now. Brownell's has the forster on sale now for 349. Much more simple. But now I'm thinking, The only thing to do on the press is sizing. Powder and seating would be done by hand and an arbor press. Now to figure out the best dies for 6.5 Creed
 

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What are you guys using for 6.5 creed? large primer or small primer? Going to be ordering brass from alpha.
i use both and cci #450 seems to be better ES/SD wise, so if you have a choice - get small primer brass. it is also easier to buy #450 primers now than #200, and it seems to be a new norm so far.
valley has #34 for sale at the moment, at $95 or so, it is like same as #200 but firmer, but, they allow only 1 box per purchase.
 
What are you guys using for 6.5 creed? large primer or small primer? Going to be ordering brass from alpha.
looking at what you have in the background :) - i highly recommend this one, while it is in under $400 range.

i can explain what to do to it afterwards to make it 100% in-house contained, but you will love it compared to what slingbeds used to be.

they also have a k1c there that is more expesnsive, but you can retrofit the camera later yourself, as camera is only $20 and evrything is pre-wired for it in the standard k1.
 
looking at what you have in the background :) - i highly recommend this one, while it is in under $400 range.

i can explain what to do to it afterwards to make it 100% in-house contained, but you will love it compared to what slingbeds used to be.

they also have a k1c there that is more expesnsive, but you can retrofit the camera later yourself, as camera is only $20 and evrything is pre-wired for it in the standard k1.
I have 6 of those enders and 1 bigger one the 10 pro I believe. I havent used them in a while. What does the camera do on those other ones?
 
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