If you look on the interwebs there is a way you can take a shoe from a regular glock trigger and replace it onto the 43's trigger bar, that is probably the most skinflint way to do it and still get an acceptable result.
Having shaved down the safety so it sits flush when the trigger is pulled to the rear the 43 is now much more comfortable to shoot. And before anyone starts saying anything, a flush trigger safety in the pulled position still works 100% properly when not in use, all you are doing is removing extra plastic that has no functional bearing on the mechanism.
If what you do not like is the feel of the ridges on the trigger face, you should do as drgrant suggests. Very low cost, I did this and switched it out for the smooth faced trigger.
Whew!! When I read that opening post I physically shivered as I thought you were talking about replacing a trigger on a German G43 WWII Rifle, one of the "holy grail" rifles for collectors. Nevermind!
Whew!! When I read that opening post I physically shivered as I thought you were talking about replacing a trigger on a German G43 WWII Rifle, one of the "holy grail" rifles for collectors. Nevermind!
If you look on the interwebs there is a way you can take a shoe from a regular glock trigger and replace it onto the 43's trigger bar, that is probably the most skinflint way to do it and still get an acceptable result.
If what you do not like is the feel of the ridges on the trigger face, you should do as drgrant suggests. Very low cost, I did this and switched it out for the smooth faced trigger.
OK, so I got myself a G17 trigger bar to remove the shoe and put on my 43 using the "dimple" technique.
First part went smooth and as expected.
The second part not so much. The pin refused to come out and at some point the trigger itself got cracked. I continued until eventually it came out just to see what to expect with the next one that I buy . It wasn't as smooth as in this video.
After I took the bar apart I noticed that the pin and the dimple that it created in "phase 1" are not aligned, which explains the difficulty of pushing the pin out and the cracked trigger. You can see in the picture below. The dimple (or where the dimple was originally) is slightly higher on the right side than the pin on the left.
Any idea how could this happen?