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The hammer spring isn't hard if you do it the right way. The grip and hand position make it easy or difficult. The bolt might be the simplest but it also depends on how you do it.
I've always found the stock cleaning kit (I forget the actual designation for the tool) was easiest and safest way for me to strip my bolt.
I got 2 bolts back together no problem using essentially that method but with the new springs installed it was much more difficult. I ended up using the Garand tool I got from Tim in the xmas karma and put it together in the gun.
The cleaning tools are great for disassembly, but putting it back together, well, that always sucks.Those are good tools; I just preferred the M3A1 combo tool with the brush instead.
I don't even use that much force to tighten the gas lock screw, I just use a large screwdriver to tighten it. Doesn't seem like it needs to be wrench tight.
OfficerObie59 there is some insight to this. If your not familure with detail stripping or want to tackle this right away. Field strip clean and go shooting. DO order a replacement kit though.
IMHO. When you detail strip replace all the springs, keep the old ones as spares. Heck order 2 kits. We need to think that a lot of these springs are 50+ years old....no idea how much use.
In the 8 years I been shooting m1 in different rifles I have had springs fail
Oprod, clip latch(several) clip ejection spring, bolts 2 extractors and 3 ejectors
It might be in my head but everyone of my service grades got a complete spring kit install. I think they sound better and improves accuracy?
Man, you must really like your tools. I just use my M3A1 combo tool whose blade bends 90 degrees, but also stands straight up and should clear the flash hider.
T.
It's a good idea for sure, but I never noticed a big accuracy boost from spring replacement. Plus, it's mainly the op rod spring you should be concerned with.
My whole point is have an extra spring kit on hand. And if you really want to change a spring, take the new and the old op rod spring and compare. If the new one is anymore than 1 1/2" longer, replace the thing. Other than that, I think someone with their first new CMP Garand should learn and be comfortable field stripping without instructions before they start detail stripping and getting overwhelmed from having all 57 parts laid out on the bench in front of them. YMMV.
I get ideas in my head and wonder...'could I make that?' Then I go about trying to figure it out. It beats trying to find something decent to watch on TV.
I did the spring kit in mine after I'd detail stripped it, cleaned & lubed and fired 100+ rounds thru it after I got it from CMP. It functioned just fine and pretty accurate but I figured I'd swap out all the springs and keep the originals for spares and that way I'd know exactly the condition of all the springs in it. I noticed a couple of them were noticeably stronger than the originals, op rod being one, so I'm curious to get out and try it and see the difference.
I finally got out to the range today. The Garand rocked! I think I still need to tweek the rear sight a little but I was able to ring the steel at a 100 yards a couple of times. It was a combination range trip to sight the Garnad as well as my first AR build. I hooked up with another NESer who is local to me who also brought out a few of his toys to play with as well. Got to shoot an AK and a Springfeild M1.
Still the star of the day was the Garand. I saw another gentleman at the club eyeing it and so after things settled down and we had our fun I had to go over with a clip and get another shooter hooked.
Thanks to all for the great advice. The Garand is so much fun to shoot and just feels REAL and RIGHT. I can't wait for my next range trip!
The screw on the elevation knob is for adjusting the indicator 'drum' on the shaft. The nut on the windage knob pulls the elevation knob into the serrations. I'd bet the nut is loose. Also, make sure the spring plate exerts sufficient force on the aperture.
That's why you zero the rifle and count X number of clicks until you bottom out the elevation knob. Loosen the screw, and turn the elevation knob (which should now not be moving the aperture) and set it for your zero distance minus X number of clicks.Has anyone had difficulty in getting the rear sight to lock in place sufficiently tight so as to keep from falling during shooting/handling?
A Garand was previously very inconsistent and after a detail strip, cleaning, lube and replacement spring/ejector kit from Orion, I shot this at 25 yards:
View attachment 94594
The first three in the ring labeled, "Sighting" were for reference. I adjusted the sights four clicks up and drilled the bullseye nicely, in the "Zeroed" ring.
After shooting at some other targets, handling the gun, another shooter fired it, handling some more, I shot another couple of clips at the same target. Without a spotting scope I didn't notice that the sights had fallen significantly, as shown in the third ring, "Fallen Sights."
I tightened the screw a bit, but it almost felt like it bottomed out without really tightening. I did not tear down the sights when I detail stripped it. Any suggestions?
Is the general consensus to go w/ an aftermarket spring replacement instead of USGI surplus new stock?
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Excuse the brevity, I'm mobile.
Has anyone had difficulty in getting the rear sight to lock in place sufficiently tight so as to keep from falling during shooting/handling?
A Garand was previously very inconsistent and after a detail strip, cleaning, lube and replacement spring/ejector kit from Orion, I shot this at 25 yards:
View attachment 94594
The first three in the ring labeled, "Sighting" were for reference. I adjusted the sights four clicks up and drilled the bullseye nicely, in the "Zeroed" ring.
After shooting at some other targets, handling the gun, another shooter fired it, handling some more, I shot another couple of clips at the same target. Without a spotting scope I didn't notice that the sights had fallen significantly, as shown in the third ring, "Fallen Sights."
I tightened the screw a bit, but it almost felt like it bottomed out without really tightening. I did not tear down the sights when I detail stripped it. Any suggestions?