Did Finland outsource M39 barrel production to USA?

[AntiqueWeapons.org]

I completely disassembled my M39 for a cleaning & inspection & made some discoveries that left me feeling a bit confused.

Once I soaked the barrel & reciever in gun scrubber, after it started to dry off, light surface rust started to appear on the barrel, so I wiped it all down with 0000 grade steel wool then soaked it in Remington's Rem Oil so it hopefully won't come back. It appears that it'll immediately start to surface rust if it is not coated in oil.

Apparently the barrel that came on my M39 may have been manufactured in the United States. It is marked underneath M.39 Finland TU Knox, TN.
I'm immediately guessing this was made in Knoxville, Tennessee, not in Finland.

Next, I found at muzzle end of barrel a marking for the caliber.

Is this mark on the originals?



Here's markings I found on underside of reciever.

Beats the hell out of me what they are or mean.


I also found on topside of barrel, near front side a # 33 that appears to have been crossed out & a 78 underneath it. Does anyone know what this means?
Are they just inspectors #s?

The underside of the reciever tang is dated 1896 & under the trigger is a #34 & at end of tang is a # 3.

The barrel has the Sako mark & it's dated 1943, so, did Finland outsource barrel manufacturing to Knoxville, Tennessee in the 1940s, or am I missing something here?

does this Knox, TN mean something else.

Sorry if these are dumb questions, but I just wanted to know.


Thanks

 

[JonJ]

Apparently the barrel that came on my M39 may have been manufactured in the United States. It is marked underneath M.39 Finland TU Knox, TN.
I'm immediately guessing this was made in Knoxville, Tennessee, not in Finland.

That's the importers mark and the 7.62X54 was put there by the importer as well.

 

[AntiqueWeapons.org]

That's the importers mark and the 7.62X54 was put there by the importer as well.

Oh. So this would be found on all M39s imported into the United States post war, correct?

 

[JonJ]

Yes, there will be an importers marking by whatever company brought it in.
I don't know when the BATFE started to require the importers to mark them.
Your tang mark is the Izhevsk bow and arrow.
Go here to spend the rest of the night learning about Mosins
http://7.62x54r.net

 

[SKS Ray]

90% of the milsurp guns you find these days have an import mark somewhere. TN Guns, CAI, Cherrys, Samco, etc. After a while (early 80s I think) it was mandatory for importation.
FWIW, I wouldn't use Gun Scrubber. It strips all the oil off finishes and leaves them vulnerable to flash rust. I only use it very sparingly when needed and apply Break Free imediately after any areas I've used it on.

 

[AntiqueWeapons.org]

90% of the milsurp guns you find these have an import mark somewhere. TN Guns, CAI, Cherrys, Samco, etc. After a while (early 80s I think) it was mandatory for importation.
FWIW, I wouldn't use Gun Scrubber. It strips all the oil off finishes and leaves them vulnerable to flash rust. I only use it very sparingly when needed and apply Break Free imediately after any areas I've used it on.

Yes, I did get the flash rust.. Hopefully the 0000 steel wool & Rem Oil will keep it ok. I wanted to get off all the brown crud that was all over the place & really don't know much about various products & brands & the clerk in the store recommended Gun Scrubber. I probably should have just cleaned it with Rem Oil.

 

[AntiqueWeapons.org]

Is this ok, or should I spray it again with something else to prevent flash rust, etc?

I soaked everything but the stock in Rem Oil then lubed the bolt, trigger, rear site, chamber & magazine with Outers Tri Care

 

[SKS Ray]

Yes, I did get the flash rust.. Hopefully the 0000 steel wool & Rem Oil will keep it ok. I wanted to get off all the brown crud that was all over the place & really don't know much about various products & brands & the clerk in the store recommended Gun Scrubber. I probably should have just cleaned it with Rem Oil.

I don't think you'll see it come back. It just dries out the metal so quick that it leaves a residue that resembles common rust, hence the term flash rust. I had the same happen years ago when I first started degreasing and buffed it off with 00 wool and Break Free with no ill effects after.
There are several good methods for comsolene removal including some that involve heat that are mentioned in a sticky here in this section.
Myself, I use Break Free for the most part and an old toothbrush. Simple Green works well too, and soaking in Ed's Red is also a good method. Ed's Red is made up of 1 part kerosene, 1 part mineral spirits, 1 part ATF transmision fluid, and 1 part acetone. When I use Ed's Red, I mix a quart of each ingredient to make a full gallon and pour it into a 5 gallon paint bucket with snap top lid and soak parts for a few days before scrubbing. Just wear gloves and keep it stored in a gas can after. Its messy if you're nor carefull, and highly flamable so caution is needed.

 

[AntiqueWeapons.org]

I don't think you'll see it come back. It just dries out the metal so quick that it leaves a residue that resembles common rust, hence the term flash rust. I had the same happen years ago when I first started degreasing and buffed it off with 00 wool and Break Free with no ill effects after.
There are several good methods for comsolene removal including some that involve heat that are mentioned in a sticky here in this section.
Myself, I use Break Free for the most part and an old toothbrush. Simple Green works well too, and soaking in Ed's Red is also a good method. Ed's Red is made up of 1 part kerosene, 1 part mineral spirits, 1 part ATF transmision fluid, and 1 part acetone. When I use Ed's Red, I mix a quart of each ingredient to make a full gallon and pour it into a 5 gallon paint bucket with snap top lid and soak parts for a few days before scrubbing. Just wear gloves and keep it stored in a gas can after. Its messy if you're nor carefull, and highly flamable so caution is needed.

Thanks.. I'll keep this in mind.. got some filthy parts rifles coming in tommorow.

 

[USMA-82]

Regarding the non-importer marks on the barrel:

The number you see is probably an "88" which stands for 8.8 millimeters. This was stamped by the Finnish armory to record the height of the front sight. The number would also be stamped at the top of the sight itself. Soldiers were not allowed to adjust this sight (by filing, for example), and the dual numbers gave the chain-of-command and the armorers a quick check for this.

When the sight was actually changed to a different height (by the armorer), he would have crossed out the old reading of 88, and re-stamp with the new reading - 78, or 7.8 millimeters. Unless the sight has been changed again (or unless it has been worn off), it should also have a 78 stamped on the top.

The numbers and symbols stamped on the bottom of the receiver are just various inspector's stamps.

Ken

 

[AntiqueWeapons.org]

Regarding the non-importer marks on the barrel:

The number you see is probably an "88" which stands for 8.8 millimeters. This was stamped by the Finnish armory to record the height of the front sight. The number would also be stamped at the top of the sight itself. Soldiers were not allowed to adjust this sight (by filing, for example), and the dual numbers gave the chain-of-command and the armorers a quick check for this.

When the sight was actually changed to a different height (by the armorer), he would have crossed out the old reading of 88, and re-stamp with the new reading - 78, or 7.8 millimeters. Unless the sight has been changed again (or unless it has been worn off), it should also have a 78 stamped on the top.

The numbers and symbols stamped on the bottom of the receiver are just various inspector's stamps.

Ken

Thank you for your informative reply.