Finally going to ask my lame question

Joined
Jan 27, 2009
Messages
206
Likes
44
Location
Quincy, MA
Feedback: 3 / 0 / 0
Being the noob that I am I have a very beginner question.

Usually when i would clean my gun I would use #9 solvent and the oil it after wiping all the solvent off. The guy at the gun shop who seemed to know alot said I may be using to much oil and instead suggested Pro Shot Cleaner and lubricant.

He said put it in, clean/dry it off then its ready to go. I guess I don't understand how it can oil the important metal on metal parts if I am drying it off as it says to do.

Any comments are greatly appreciated!!
 
You want to apply a very light sheen of oil to metal surfaces (in general)

I believe the general recommendation is: wipe with a light coat of oil and then wipe with a clean, dry cloth (same for the interior of the bore, clean it, dry it, run a lightly oiled patch, run a clean patch)

This will leave a very light sheen of oil, which is all that is needed to protect the metal from the enviornment. Generally, anything more is too much.

AR-15s are an exception to this general rule. They are built to run "wet" while the bore should still be treated like this, the action is intended to have a little more oil and will run best with a visible sheen of oil.
 
Being the noob that I am I have a very beginner question.

Usually when i would clean my gun I would use #9 solvent and the oil it after wiping all the solvent off. The guy at the gun shop who seemed to know alot said I may be using to much oil and instead suggested Pro Shot Cleaner and lubricant.

He said put it in, clean/dry it off then its ready to go. I guess I don't understand how it can oil the important metal on metal parts if I am drying it off as it says to do.

Any comments are greatly appreciated!!

what firearm?

i usually follow the manufacturers recommendations in the manual... you are safe IF you heed their guidelines... *generally speaking*

[smile]
 
Yeah, the Sig P Series guns run wet too. I also use Slip 2000 Extreme Grease on the slide and rail of the pistol. Some guys grease the barrel but I keep it wet with Slip 2000 Extreme Oil. Gun looks new with no signs of rail, slide or barrel wear, except the normal barrel smilies.
 
I put enough oil that it's a little shiny and I would leave a fingerprint if I touched it, but not some much that it's pooling up or dripping or anything. I usually put a bunch of oil on and then wipe it off with a new patch/rag. There's no way that you'll wipe off all the oil that you put on when you do that, so you'll be left with just a thin layer of oil, which is what you want.
 
AR-15s are an exception to this general rule. They are built to run "wet" while the bore should still be treated like this, the action is intended to have a little more oil and will run best with a visible sheen of oil.

AR-15's [hmmm][thinking] , I haven't been to one NES shoot (And I've been to many) where I haven't seen somebody having an issue with an AR.

AR's are like Bitchy Women, High maintenance, No matter how much You care for them they will still come back and bite you when you least expect it.

[smile][wink]

I'm sure I'll draw fire for this post but I'm not worried, your AR will jam while I'm on your flank.[smile][wink]
 
I wipe my guns down with an oily rag, and then wipe the excess off so nothing drips. You are unlikely to hurt anything by over-oiling, but running it too dry can cause malfunctions and expose you to rust problems. I'd rather have too much than too little, worse case, you'll get a face full of oil when the slide cycles.

I have heard that getting oil into the little bits in the gun (internal trigger components, safety bits, etc) can be a bad thing, as when mixed with grit and dust it can turn into a lapping compound. This may be baloney.
 
Thanks for the input everyone!!!
So why does the solution have lubricant in it as well? If I need to put a light coat of oil on it after using it why would they put oil in it as well?

Here is a link to what it is. It is the bottle not the little applicator.
https://www.proshotproducts.com/pro...id=50&osCsid=dc4b6457150c9fbd3a5b3b682bfd9a69

That product claims that it cleans and lubricates at the same time. I am skeptical of how well it does that. Personally, I would get two separate products - one cleaner and one oil.
 
AR-15's [hmmm][thinking] , I haven't been to one NES shoot (And I've been to many) where I haven't seen somebody having an issue with an AR.

AR's are like Bitchy Women, High maintenance, No matter how much You care for them they will still come back and bite you when you least expect it.

[smile][wink]

I'm sure I'll draw fire for this post but I'm not worried, your AR will jam while I'm on your flank.[smile][wink]

No wonder why my AR and I are like long lost twins! [rofl] we understand each other!!!
 
Thanks for the input everyone!!!
So why does the solution have lubricant in it as well? If I need to put a light coat of oil on it after using it why would they put oil in it as well?

Here is a link to what it is. It is the bottle not the little applicator.
https://www.proshotproducts.com/pro...id=50&osCsid=dc4b6457150c9fbd3a5b3b682bfd9a69

A combined cleaner and lubricant is just that. The cleaner typically is the more volatile and evaporates away or is easily wiped away. Any residual left on the gun is oil ( or teflon, etc.) and not as subject to evaporation. The lubricant also is better at naturally resisting being wiped off.
 
I make 1/2 gallon of lube for under $10.

I use a 50/50 mix of synthetic ATF and synthetic 5w-20 motor oil and lube to the manufacturers recommendations or according to my own experience. Some guns need to run wetter than others.

Lately I've been cleaning with Ballistol and brake cleaner.
 
Hoppes #9 and oil has worked well for decades. I've got guns that have been getting this treatment from me for 30+ years and are fine. The new super cleaners are like the new clothing that is "must have" and does the same thing as wool at three times the price.


Now please excuse me while I dope my bamboo fishing rod.
 
you can't run a gun to wet. Sounds like the guy at the shop was just trying to sell stuff

It depends on the gun - Glocks only use a couple of drops of oil; 1911's tend to run wet.
 
I make 1/2 gallon of lube for under $10.

I use a 50/50 mix of synthetic ATF and synthetic 5w-20 motor oil and lube to the manufacturers recommendations or according to my own experience. Some guns need to run wetter than others.

Lately I've been cleaning with Ballistol and brake cleaner.

You posted that recipe awhile ago and I decided to give it a try. I've been using the same batch for over a year with great results...and I still have several years worth of it left at the rate I'm going through it.
 
Take a patch and soak it with CLP and then wipe all metal parts down,take dry patch after and wipe to get all the excess oil. Too much oil will attract crud and too little will cause malfunctions.
 
I make 1/2 gallon of lube for under $10.

I use a 50/50 mix of synthetic ATF and synthetic 5w-20 motor oil and lube to the manufacturers recommendations or according to my own experience. Some guns need to run wetter than others.

Lately I've been cleaning with Ballistol and brake cleaner.

Not to be an ass but why the ATF and why 5W-20?

Motor oil does indeed make a good gun lube but pretty much any motor oil will work fine. It's not going to encounter anywhere near the stress it sees in an engine. That said, something like 15W-50 is probably too heavy.
 
I endorse Posts #3 and #11, with the following additional observations:

Parts of the AR require more lube, and what I do is put a drop of oil on the metal surface and then spread it around with a gloved finger.

For SIG auto pistols (and most others), I put a small drop of oil (using one of those oil syringe things) in the slide rail recess and then push it fore and aft with an ice cream popisicle stick with a fresh end cut.

Hoppe's #9 for solvent; Hoppe's Gun Oil for lub; more than 40 years doing it this way without a failure attributable to either product.
 
It's easy to over oil, I just put oil on a patch and use it as a wipe.

This is what's worked best for me. I used to use too much oil, and it would get all over the place (leaking out of the slide). I sometimes had to wipe the gun down in between mag changes. I've changed my ways now, and using a patch helps put just the right amount on IMO.
 
That product claims that it cleans and lubricates at the same time. I am skeptical of how well it does that. Personally, I would get two separate products - one cleaner and one oil.

+1

and I always over oil, but then wipe off the excess [wink]

it also depends on how often you use the firearm. if it's your personal defense or only firearm then keep it minimally oiled. if it's a safe queen then put a little extra oil on it but give it a quick wipe down before you use it again
 
Not to be an ass but why the ATF and why 5W-20?

Motor oil does indeed make a good gun lube but pretty much any motor oil will work fine. It's not going to encounter anywhere near the stress it sees in an engine. That said, something like 15W-50 is probably too heavy.

I use 5w-20 because it's thin and it was on the shelf and cheap when I went into the parts store to buy lube. I use ATF because it's thin enough, has better corrosion protection than motor oil, better migration, won't oxidize during storage (a 1/2 gallon lasts a long time) and it's compatible with any material (including polymers) that it's likely to encounter in a firearm.

ETA: It might be my imagination, but the addition of ATF also seems to make the guns easier to clean afterwards.
 
Last edited:
Thanks again for all the input.
For those of you who wanted to know what gun,
Both a Ruger LCP and Stoeger Cougar 8000
Because both are Carry weapons I will go with keeping it lightly oiled to the point it makes a glossy look but does not run.
 
Back
Top Bottom