Grinding/Removing AR Bayo Lug

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Curious to see what all of you MA post-ban guys/gals did to remove the bayo lug on your AR.

-What tools did you use? (Angle grinder/Bandsaw, etc.)
-What did you to to "clean it up" and make it look nice?
-What did you do to finish it? Paint, etc.?

Pics are a bonus, thanks!!!
 
I believe that a spot weld of a dot of metal to prevent the mounting of a bayonet is acceptable and would result in a firearm that could have the dot ground off if you move to a free state. Please check with someone with more knowledge of the laws than I, I wanted to suggest a possible option.
 
Why would you grind the bayo lug off? unless you are trying to adapt a pre ban for a post ban sale or build? As far as I know as long as the gun was a pre ban there is no need to remove bayo lug. So far dremel tool has been one of my best at home gun smth tools. You can get nice small cutting blades and carbide grinding bits. Heat is lower also.
 
I've done one with the mill, which worked nice, but the last one I did was with a hacksaw, file and some 150 and 400 grit paper - then cold blue. The better your hacksaw skills, the less you have to file. It came out just as good as the millled one. I did remove the FSB from the barrel on both of them - easier to fit in the vise.

It's a pretty low tech job, but it works!
 
There was a guy on here that ground off both the sides of the lug so you couldn't lock the bayo on. It came out pretty well. Not sure the legality of this but it was a pretty sharp idea!!.
 
There was a guy on here that ground off both the sides of the lug so you couldn't lock the bayo on. It came out pretty well. Not sure the legality of this but it was a pretty sharp idea!!.

No bayonet doesn't seem like a pretty sharp idea to me!




[wink]

Sorry. I tried, but I just couldn't pass that up.

I've seen them done that way, too. It did look good! I thought about trying it that way, but I wasn't sure how the cold blue on the side of the lugs remains would look next to the parkerized finish. With the whole thing gone, most of the time I can't even see the blued bit.
 
I've done one with the mill, which worked nice, but the last one I did was with a hacksaw, file and some 150 and 400 grit paper - then cold blue. The better your hacksaw skills, the less you have to file. It came out just as good as the millled one. I did remove the FSB from the barrel on both of them - easier to fit in the vise.

It's a pretty low tech job, but it works!

thanks KMM. Tell me about the Cold Blue process? How is it applied and what is the prep like? When can I get the product?

Thanks!
 
Cold bluing is pretty simple, and there are a bunch of different companies making it. If you search on MidwayUSA or Brownells sites, they will have an assortment, most gun shops and some sporting goods places should have some on the shelf. It's good for touch up work - doesn't look like the original bluing, but looks better than exposed white metal.

I like Brownells Oxpho-Blue much better than Birchwood-Caseys cold bluing. Those are the only 2 I've tried. Each brand may have a slightly different spin on it, but the general procedure is to degrease the area (alcohol or brake cleaner works well), apply the cold blue (I use a cleaning patch), let it sit for a bit, wipe off, buff with fine (000 or 0000) steel wool, and repeat from "apply" until you get the color you want. Then oil it. It won't match the rest of the FSB since it's not parkerized, but it's not in a spot thats usually on display.
 
I used a Dremel and a Super Black paint pen (from Brownell's, IIRC). First used a cutting wheel to cut down the lug, then a grinding wheel to smooth it out.
 
this would be for a post-ban MA-compliant build. i.e. NO bayonet lug allowed.

No exactly. It states that the lug must not be capable of accepting a bayo. rep308 is correct. A well placed bead is legal (and reversible)
 
I wish I had heard of the weld bead before I ground mine off with a die grinder. Well, not really - I just don't see an AR as a very good platform for a bayonet. The bayo lug is the least painful of the "evil" features to get rid of, IMO.

After I ground mine off I touched up the bare metal with a fine file then refinished the bare metal with some Birchwell Casey Super Cold Blue.
 
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