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It depends on your hand size. I shoot my Model 66 the same as autos, but I have smallish hands. Craig Buckland (Team S&W shooter and IDPA national SSR champ) also shoots revo thumbs forward.
It depends on your hand size. I shoot my Model 66 the same as autos, but I have smallish hands. Craig Buckland (Team S&W shooter and IDPA national SSR champ) also shoots revo thumbs forward.
I seem to remember a picture of a fellow's thumb who used a thumb-forward grip on a S&W 460. The result was gruesome.Another problem I see with Craig's grip is that his support side thumb is awfully close to the cylinder gap. Not an issue with .38 Specials, but hotter rounds will create a problem.
I seem to remember a picture of a fellow's thumb who used a thumb-forward grip on a S&W 460. The result was gruesome.
Yep, that's what I was thinking of. I only go up to .44 Magnum, but my thumb is going nowhere near there.
I've seen the powder burns that come from 44 magnum and grip that's too close to the cylinder gap. It's NOT a happy thing. Fortunately, no permanent damage was done, and nobody who saw it will ever do that again.
The fellow with the 460 didn't just get powder burns. The gases severed part of his thumb.
Agreed.I'm just pointing out that even for those of us not shooting actual cannons, thumbs forward on a revolver can end pretty badly.
I saw that. I also saw what Mythbusters did with a 500 S&W Magnum. I'm just pointing out that even for those of us not shooting actual cannons, thumbs forward on a revolver can end pretty badly.
What's a proper mag change?When you shoot a semi-auto, you wont have to worry about slide-lock if you practice proper mag changes!!!!
I'm guessing that he believes in round counting, and thus changing magazines before the slide locks back.What's a proper mag change?
After taking the GOAL Basic Pistol class, and watching Jon torch a piece of paper with the flash around the cylinder of a measly .38, there is no way my fingers are going anywhere near that gap, which is the reason I switched to thumbs crossed for revos.
In the two classes I took at Sig Academy, the number one gun malfunction was the slide not locking back on an empty mag and it always involved a Sig pistol with that very poorly placed slide lock lever. One instructor actually was trying to get some of us to drop thumbs forward as it seems to make this Sig-specific problem worse. I just switched to a Glock.
Eco - I just picked up a P239 .40 and I took it out Sunday night for a run and I kept having the same problem. I cleaned up went home and look into it. Found out that it's common for people with bigger hands (not huge) to be unknowingly holding down the slide release with your thumb, it's exactly what's going on with me.
Funny thing is though I went to MFL and shot a P229 before I stumbled upon the P239 and with the P229 I did not experience this problem. Then again if I was a left-handed shooter I wouldn't have the problem either. I like the Sig though. On the contrary you can release the slide without loosing your overall grip. But if it doesn't lock-back anyway what's the point.
With a little tweaking of grip size (which in turn moves the postion of the thumb), it's totally possible to shoot Sigs thumb-forward. It took replacement grips and some experimentation, though, for me to get it. I had no issue with the slide failing to lock back, but the amount of tinkering to make this happen was not zero.I cannot understand the fanboy following those pistols have when they have such a glaring design issue that makes them virtually incompatible with the most effective handgun grip yet devised.
I think that's a dumb thing to teach, and kills the one good thing they have going with that lever. The one advantage to the slide-stop location is that it can be actuated with only a few millimeters of movement. You can reload simply by dropping the magazine, moving your thumb to the lever, and slamming a new one in.It is not a surprise to me that at SIG Academy they teach the overhand method of releasing the slide during an emergency reload -- with that small a slide stop in that stupid location, I'd do the same.
The disadvantage of using your right thumb on the slide stop is that you break your strong hand grip while doing so.I think that's a dumb thing to teach, and kills the one good thing they have going with that lever. The one advantage to the slide-stop location is that it can be actuated with only a few millimeters of movement. You can reload simply by dropping the magazine, moving your thumb to the lever, and slamming a new one in.
The disadvantage of using your right thumb on the slide stop is that you break your strong hand grip while doing so.
One big reason I sold my 226 is the retarded design of the slide release lever.
I cannot understand the fanboy following those pistols have when they have such a glaring design issue that makes them virtually incompatible with the most effective handgun grip yet devised.
IDK about you, but I would never pawn off a family heirloom that also happens to be a highly sought after exaple of the gunmaker's art from an era that will not return just to fund a pedestrian, common pistol.I've never held a S&W 500 or any revolver aside from a Colt Python .357 Magnum my father left me in his will. I never shoot the .357 ever -- expensive and it just doesn't fit my hand too well. I should sell it and get a 92FS or something similar I've been wanting.
I've never held a S&W 500 or any revolver aside from a Colt Python .357 Magnum my father left me in his will. I never shoot the .357 ever -- expensive and it just doesn't fit my hand too well. I should sell it and get a 92FS or something similar I've been wanting.
IDK about you, but I would never pawn off a family heirloom that also happens to be a highly sought after exaple of the gunmaker's art from an era that will not return just to fund a pedestrian, common pistol.
IDK about you, but I would never pawn off a family heirloom that also happens to be a highly sought after exaple of the gunmaker's art from an era that will not return just to fund a pedestrian, common pistol.