aeromarine
NES Member
I had a six inch Highway Patrolman, Serial Number N196XXX, that I purchased used in 1976 so yours is almost certainly older than 1981.
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How to Identify/Date a S&W
- Thread starter Pilgrim
- Start date
probably 1981
1980-81 serial numbers: R280001-R300800
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the numbers do not progress serially between model numbers. Each frame size has it's own sequence.
aeromarine
NES Member
I used to have a Model 28 Highway Patrolman in six inch that I purchased used in 1976. It had a serial number in the range of N196XXX so yours must have been made sometime before 1976. I think that model was very popular in the early 1970s as a police department issue gun. A couple of years later (1973?) S&W came out with the lighter K frame Model 66 in stainless and I think that quickly cut off many more sales of the Model 28. I very much regret selling my Highway Patrolman at some point in the 1990s. It had the best double action trigger on a revolver that I ever had and I would put it on par with the Colt Python. My plan in selling the old 28 was to get the fancier Model 27 but I never did. That's still on my wish list.
Please help me date a model 37, no dash - serial J905xx - I'm not worried about value based on condition. Holster wear, sweat rust and the like are all installed by the previous "old guy" owner, according to the shop.
I'd like to get period correct stocks for it because that's just how I am so pics of those would be great.
I plan on using 125gr Silver Tip Winchester in it, no +P loads
Also, what are the suggested pocket carry wallet/holsters? Or a lead on Barney Miller type OWB holster for the vintage look.
Thanks for all info
I'd like to get period correct stocks for it because that's just how I am so pics of those would be great.
I plan on using 125gr Silver Tip Winchester in it, no +P loads
Also, what are the suggested pocket carry wallet/holsters? Or a lead on Barney Miller type OWB holster for the vintage look.
Thanks for all info
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1969-1970 J1-J99999
However, anyone knowledgeable about S&W knows that it is virtually impossible to hold any one pistol or revolver to these exact range dates since S&W did not always make and ship their revolvers in serial number sequence.
I do not have any pictures of stocks but your revolver should be wearing Magna stocks without the diamond around the stock screw.
However, anyone knowledgeable about S&W knows that it is virtually impossible to hold any one pistol or revolver to these exact range dates since S&W did not always make and ship their revolvers in serial number sequence.
I do not have any pictures of stocks but your revolver should be wearing Magna stocks without the diamond around the stock screw.
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1969-1970 mfr.
Robert Mika pocket holster would work great. I have 2 for my J-frame, one square bottom and the other rounded.
https://mikaspocketholsters.com/shop/
https://images.search.yahoo.com/ima...=103vg5ole&sigb=13fek60mp&fr=goodsearch-yhsif
Thank you All - I appreciate your time and efforts.
After a quick scrub of the gun I've decided not to spend another penny on it other than rounds and training. Holsters aside the new S&W rubber grips installed by the shop will do (because the Pach hard rubber was so dry rotted that they had to destroy them to get the serial #) - this is a work horse not a vintage collector anything.
The pitting on the frame & cylinder are just not worthy of collector anything - the normal wear at the trigger guard, etc would be OK if it were not the pitting issue.
That said, a great buy for a working unit - Low round count, lots of carry miles. A dollar bill will squeeze between the cyl and the cone. Very tight clearances - please correct me if I'm wrong.
Again - I appreciate your attention and info.
Question on the Mika:
Does the mouth of the holster stay open upon draw? The reality is that most of the holstering/un-holstering will be done in the home (if not all...) but it helps to know - thanks again.
After a quick scrub of the gun I've decided not to spend another penny on it other than rounds and training. Holsters aside the new S&W rubber grips installed by the shop will do (because the Pach hard rubber was so dry rotted that they had to destroy them to get the serial #) - this is a work horse not a vintage collector anything.
The pitting on the frame & cylinder are just not worthy of collector anything - the normal wear at the trigger guard, etc would be OK if it were not the pitting issue.
That said, a great buy for a working unit - Low round count, lots of carry miles. A dollar bill will squeeze between the cyl and the cone. Very tight clearances - please correct me if I'm wrong.
Again - I appreciate your attention and info.
Question on the Mika:
Does the mouth of the holster stay open upon draw? The reality is that most of the holstering/un-holstering will be done in the home (if not all...) but it helps to know - thanks again.
Last edited:
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My Mika's stay open enough to reholster easily.
Another J frame MFGR date request - I get shipping was different than mfgr dates:
J158XX
Holy smokes was it in nice condition - just looking to put a year of manufacture on it. It's got like, 19 original miles on it...no joke, awesomeness in 5 shots or less. No, he won't even trade it to me.
J158XX
Holy smokes was it in nice condition - just looking to put a year of manufacture on it. It's got like, 19 original miles on it...no joke, awesomeness in 5 shots or less. No, he won't even trade it to me.
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I have my grandfathers service revolver from when he was a sheriff. If someone could hook me up with an approximation of the age I would be pretty stoked. I believe it's a model 27. It has a 3" barrel and a pretty shiney blueing. Maybe nickel, I'm not really sure. The serial is is 6 digits starting with 1378. Any info you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
What is the caliber listed on the side of the barrel and is there a letter before the serial number?
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It's a .357. Like I said I'm pretty sure it's a model 27, there are no letters mid 50's is what I would assume.
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well to be honest I'm not well versed in finishes. I've never seen a blueing that is shiney, but I assume that a nickle finish is much more silver versus pretty much black
It appears to be that this thread is specifically for those seeking the information I do. Presumably from guys that have the book that s&he puts out that lists ship dates based on series numbers. I don't think s&w would entertain my phone call about it, but thank you very much for your snyde remark, it was ever so helpful
I apologize if you think I was being snarky I was serious. Whenever I have been in this situation I've called the maker directly. Sometimes they cant help you especially if the brand has been owned by several other entities. But some of the older brands love these phone calls. There's a story behind every firearm and sometimes the makers want it or want to hear it.
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Sent from my SM-G928P using Tapatalk
Trying to get this back on track. The .357 Magnum was introduced in 1935 so we have a "no earlier than" start date. The lack of a model number would indicate a "no later than" date of about 1957 to maybe 1958 or 59. The reason for this spread is that model numbers were first introduced in 1957 but, from what I understand, took about a year or two to be used on all products. The six digit serial number (starting with the numbers you provided) without a letter before is a puzzler sure enough. The letter may not be immediately adjacent to the numbers and could be "almost" a half inch before. The numbers you provided do not fit into the expected serial number ranges without a letter prefix.
As far as the finish, does it look similar to the silverware in your house? If so, it is probably nickel. If not, it is probably blued.
S&W produced millions of pistols between the dates I listed above and there are many examples of firearms being produced outside of what seems to be the predicted manufacture date range.
Frankly the information you gave us is a bit lacking for a positive identification. While you may think it is enough it just does not give anyone enough knowledge to be able to answer your question in an exact and positive manner. This may be an instance where a person knowledgeable of S&W firearms may need to make a hands-on inspection to look for those clues and identification features which can tell us what you have. Either that or some very sharp and detailed pictures showing various features.
If you can't do either of these, that I'm afraid that we will have a very hard helping you.
As far as the finish, does it look similar to the silverware in your house? If so, it is probably nickel. If not, it is probably blued.
S&W produced millions of pistols between the dates I listed above and there are many examples of firearms being produced outside of what seems to be the predicted manufacture date range.
Frankly the information you gave us is a bit lacking for a positive identification. While you may think it is enough it just does not give anyone enough knowledge to be able to answer your question in an exact and positive manner. This may be an instance where a person knowledgeable of S&W firearms may need to make a hands-on inspection to look for those clues and identification features which can tell us what you have. Either that or some very sharp and detailed pictures showing various features.
If you can't do either of these, that I'm afraid that we will have a very hard helping you.
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well that there was some good gouge. Thank you. It appears that there is an S approximately 1" to the left of the number as well as a sideways B to the right. I say appears to bebecause I'm currently not home and just have a subpar picture on my phone. It's definitely not remotely silver
PistolShooter
NES Member
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S prefix followed by 1378 puts it between 1954 to 1955. The range for those years ends at S139999 so most likely a 1955.
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PistolShooter
NES Member
Also looking through the S&W book on my phone, it looks like the barrel is more likely a 3 1/2 inch. Did you measure from the cylinder face to the end of the barrel?
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I did not. I actually just assumed. Forgive me for probably butchering what I'm about to say I'm not familiar with nomenclature for revolvers. When I open up the cylinder the kind of blocky piece that connects it to the frame there are matching numbers (from what I found these set of numbers is basically just a manufacture number in order to keep parts together), under those numbers there is a 3 that is prominent (read a little bit larger) so I figured that it denoted the barrel length. Anyways thank you for taking the time to pull that information for me. I appreciate it. It's neat to know just how old it is
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Well, based on the pictures I think we can safely say that you have a S&W .357 Magnum ("Pre-Model 27"). If the barrel is 3.5" this makes it a little scarcer than other barrel lengths.
Very nice gun to have.
Very nice gun to have.
