Is it OK to dry fire the M&P's?

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JayMac

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Just hoping someone can educate me. I admittedly don't know much about the Glocks, but did read that thread about the potential dangers of dry-firing them.

I'm just wondering before I pick my M&P 9c up, are there any inherent dangers of dry firing them? I did search, but all I found was a glock vs. M&P thread.
Thanks,
Jeremy
 
Good to hear. I read about a dry-fire practice technique where you balance a spent casing on top of your front sight while dry-firing to develop a steady pull. This, provided your sight is level enough to balance the brass on.
 
There have been some cases of broken strikers on M&P's but I haven't seen anything that "proves" it was due to dry firing. However each time a broken striker was reported they would also say they had dry fired it thousands of times. I use a snap cap just in case.
 
Can someone elaborate on dry-firing technique for me? I read in another thread that the poster had to reach down in to the well and depress the magazine disconnect every time.
I'm assuming he was dry-firing the gun without the magazine in it. Was that for safety precautions or due to a trait of the M&P mag disconnect safety? I've also read about guys getting their mag safeties removed. I assume the order of operations for dry firing would change after this mod?
Mind you, I don't have my gun yet, so I can't find out for myself right now. Can someone educate me on what techniques of dry-firing might be unique to the M&P?
 
I broke a striker (at the shoulder) on my M&P 9 last week. It happened during a dry firing exercise. This gun has had ~ 1200 rounds through it and has been dry fired about 2000 times. My replacement striker assembly is on back order ($23.00 each). You might want to order one just in case. [wink]
Mil-Dot
 
Mil-Dot said:
I broke a striker (at the shoulder) on my M&P 9 last week. It happened during a dry firing exercise. This gun has had ~ 1200 rounds through it and has been dry fired about 2000 times. My replacement striker assembly is on back order ($23.00 each). You might want to order one just in case. [wink]
Mil-Dot
Click to expand...

Hmmm....bummer. Is this a common trait, or a rare exception, as far as everyone knows?
 
mine had no issues with dry firing, but then again I definitely was nowhere near 2000 dry fires- $23 isn't too steep even in the rare case is does occur though.
 
Huh??? I'm confused..."Full mag" as in, empty mag inserted, or "full mag", as in magazine full of 10 live rounds and you're busting my balls?
 
JayMac said:
Can someone elaborate on dry-firing technique for me? I read in another thread that the poster had to reach down in to the well and depress the magazine disconnect every time.
I'm assuming he was dry-firing the gun without the magazine in it. Was that for safety precautions or due to a trait of the M&P mag disconnect safety? I've also read about guys getting their mag safeties removed. I assume the order of operations for dry firing would change after this mod?
Mind you, I don't have my gun yet, so I can't find out for myself right now. Can someone educate me on what techniques of dry-firing might be unique to the M&P?
Click to expand...

If your M&P has a magazine disconnect you have to insert an empty mag to dry fire efficiently.

If your M&P does not have a magazine disconnect, then you can dry fire with or without an empty mag in it.

If your M&P has a mag disconnect, have a gunsmith get rid of it.

M&Ps, like most other hammerless striker fired pistols, require that you move the slide back to recock the striker. In case of the M&P it takes 1/4" or less of slide movement to do so, so you do not need to pull the slide back all the way.
 
Jose said:
If your M&P has a magazine disconnect you have to insert an empty mag to dry fire efficiently.

If your M&P does not have a magazine disconnect, then you can dry fire with or without an empty mag in it.

If your M&P has a mag disconnect, have a gunsmith get rid of it.

M&Ps, like most other hammerless striker fired pistols, require that you move the slide back to recock the striker. In case of the M&P it takes 1/4" or less of slide movement to do so, so you do not need to pull the slide back all the way.
Click to expand...

Excellent! Very specific and helpful. Thanks Jose!
 
So yours contain a bullet and casing, w/o the primer and powder? Do you make them yourselves or do you buy them somewhere? I think I've read about them somewhere on NES.
 
Since S&W provides a lifetime warranty, a phone call wrt broken striker may get you one faster than waiting on parts that are back-ordered thru Midway/Brownells/etc. as well as cheaper.
 
Jose said:
If your M&P has a magazine disconnect you have to insert an empty mag to dry fire efficiently.

If your M&P does not have a magazine disconnect, then you can dry fire with or without an empty mag in it.

If your M&P has a mag disconnect, have a gunsmith get rid of it.

M&Ps, like most other hammerless striker fired pistols, require that you move the slide back to recock the striker. In case of the M&P it takes 1/4" or less of slide movement to do so, so you do not need to pull the slide back all the way.
Click to expand...

The magazine disconnect and the " idiot wire" wire for disassembly are easily removed. Drive out the pin that holds the sear block assembly in the frame, lift out the sear block assembly, and remove the pin that holds these parts in place. Neither part is necessary for the operation of the pistol. Check out Burwells web site for instructions.

With the foolish wire removed you just pull the trigger (after having made certain that the chamber is empty) to release the stiker so that the slide can be removed. A lot easier than messing with that wire.
 
Gammon said:
The magazine disconnect and the " idiot wire" wire for disassembly are easily removed. Drive out the pin that holds the sear block assembly in the frame, lift out the sear block assembly, and remove the pin that holds these parts in place. Neither part is necessary for the operation of the pistol. Check out Burwells web site for instructions.

With the foolish wire removed you just pull the trigger (after having made certain that the chamber is empty) to release the stiker so that the slide can be removed. A lot easier than messing with that wire.
Click to expand...
I checked out the website http://www.burwellguns.com/index.htm , but didn't see any such instructions. Good site, though.
When you say "idiot wire", you're referring to the lever that has to be pushed down to with the "take down tool" to strip the gun, right?
Does anyone have the instructions for that removal online?
Thanks~
 
Gammon said:
With the foolish wire removed you just pull the trigger (after having made certain that the chamber is empty) to release the stiker so that the slide can be removed. A lot easier than messing with that wire.
Click to expand...
A) My M&P did not come with a magazine disconnect and it came with a crisp 6 lb trigger.

B) Removal of the "idiot wire" is completely unnecessary. If you do not want to use it to take down the pistol, don't. The M&P takes down exactly like a Glock: lock slide to rear, rotate take down lever, drop slide stop while holding slide, let slide slowly travel into battery, pull trigger, finish removing slide.

The "idiot wire" is there for those who for whatever reason do not want to pull the trigger to disconnect the sear from the firing pin. Its use is optional, not mandatory.
 

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