Queue Jose...
Sig P225 is on the list, P6 is not. Some FFL's won't transfer them, some will because they recognize that they are the same gun.
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Looking for a 9mm or 357 - help me decide?
- Thread starter kingston73
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Sig P225 is on the list, P6 is not. Some FFL's won't transfer them, some will because they recognize that they are the same gun.
J
Jose
It is easier than a semi auto. They do weigh a little more than a plastic semi, but with a proper belt and a good holster, it is not a problem.
I wore this all day today, including nearly 3 hours in the truck:
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After going back and forth a lot on this, I'm going to go with a P225, assuming I can get an FFL holder to do the transfer for me. I know I can get one for $400 including shipping, and with a transfer fee of $20-$30 I'm looking at a total of $420 or so. Is this a reasonable price for a Sig in MA?
J
Jose
That's a reasonable price for a SIG just about anywhere.
Be sure you can deal with the location of a classic SIG's controls.
I sold a 226 because I could not deal with the location of the slide lock lever.
It's funny, my last post about 24 hours ago I was convinced and set on buying a P225, and today I stopped by a gun shop I hadn't been to before and found a beautiful looking S&W 64-1 for only $200. It was recovered by police in an alley at one point in time, sold at an auction, and the shop owner had just bought it from one of his own employee's who sold it because he didn't like revolvers. It had only been in the store for about 4 hours. I hadn't planned on buying anything at all today, and now have to figure out how to tell the wife I spent $200. She's not exactly a gun-lovin' girl, she isn't anti but would never spend money on one. I feel like I got a pretty good deal on it, I checked my couple-year-old Gun Values book and it lists the 64 as about $290 in 90% condition, and this one is at least that good. It locked up pretty tight, a little play side to side and front to back, but not as much as my Single-six Ruger. It doesn't have the original grips, it's got a pair of Hogue-like plastic grips that I'll probably replace with real wood of some sort. The guy said it was either made in 1976 or 77. No picture yet because i haven't brought it home yet. I hadn't planned on buying anything and had other places to go, so I'm going back tomorrow to get it. Probably stop by the range and shot a box of ammo through it before I go home.
J
Jose
Dude, JUMP on it.
That Model 64 in my pic above was either a police or security company gun and I got it for $290 OTD, including an old school Gould and Goodrich police holster.
ETA: for defensive ammo, look no further than this:
That Model 64 in my pic above was either a police or security company gun and I got it for $290 OTD, including an old school Gould and Goodrich police holster.
ETA: for defensive ammo, look no further than this:
$200 !!!!!!!!!!!!
I hope you put a deposit on it as you should never have left the store without it. It will not be there tomorrow!
I should have made the more clear, I did buy it and they're holding it for me. I was going to a few stores after the gun shop and had no way to carry it or store it in my truck, so I'm going back today to pick it up. I'll post pics after I get it home. So $200 was a good deal? Good to know. Next is I think I'm going to get some Ahrends finger groove grips for it plus a good carry holster.
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That is a sweet deal. I like this.
J
Jose
I have Ahrends grips with and without finger grooves. I prefer them without. They make it easier to get a good grip when drawing quickly.
Bill Jordan's advice on that subject is right on, as most of his is.
Here's a couple pictures, overall it seems to be in good shape. The rifling looks crisp, and there's only a couple scratches here and there. The trigger is much much better than my Ruger SingleSix's, and the cylinder locks up about as tight if not tighter than the ruger. I really like the balance and feel, just the right amount of barrel weight, but not overly heavy. I could see myself carrying this pretty easily given the right holster and belt.
J
Jose
Very nice, congrats! I've been contemplating a 64 and/or 67 police trade-in to accompany my 686SSR. Do yourself a favor and learn to shoot it double action. Once you get comfortable with it, get a holster, a couple of speed loaders and get to an IDPA practice or match. Harvard and WPRC are probably the two closest active IDPA clubs near Bellingham.
J
Jose
Kingston, try this drill.....
Unload your 64 and walk around the house with it in hand. Point with it at random objects in the house as if you were going to shoot but do not use the sights. Once you are pointed at the object, then focus on the sights.
If S&W K frames fit you like they fit me, the sights will be perfectly aligned and on target about 99% of the time. That ability to make hits without constant attention to the sights is what keeps me coming back to S&W medium frame wheelguns.
Unload your 64 and walk around the house with it in hand. Point with it at random objects in the house as if you were going to shoot but do not use the sights. Once you are pointed at the object, then focus on the sights.
If S&W K frames fit you like they fit me, the sights will be perfectly aligned and on target about 99% of the time. That ability to make hits without constant attention to the sights is what keeps me coming back to S&W medium frame wheelguns.
open the cylinder and look at the model number stamped in the frame. Does it say 64-something?
It has a pinned barrel so it's a relatively early model.
See this thread: http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/68254-How-to-Identify-Date-a-S-amp-W to date it.
At $200, you got it for about 1/2 price.
smith triggers always are.
It has a pinned barrel so it's a relatively early model.
See this thread: http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/68254-How-to-Identify-Date-a-S-amp-W to date it.
At $200, you got it for about 1/2 price.
smith triggers always are.
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Based on the numbers in that thread, looks like mine was made sometime late 75 or early 76. Almost as old as I am.
I've got both.
I picked up the 9mm yesterday, and the .357 today. Both conceal well, but I must say SP101 IWB Uncle Mike's is a dream to wear. Sitting or standing, I forget it is on me. I am going to carry .38 +P ammo, with .357 in a Bianchi Speed Strip. I think this is what I will carry most days.
I picked up the 9mm yesterday, and the .357 today. Both conceal well, but I must say SP101 IWB Uncle Mike's is a dream to wear. Sitting or standing, I forget it is on me. I am going to carry .38 +P ammo, with .357 in a Bianchi Speed Strip. I think this is what I will carry most days.
J
Jose
I bet it's a -1 through -3.
The no dash were all pencil barrels and IIRC, the pin left on -4s
pin went away in 82. -4 started in 88.
by his dating it should be a -1. Both pencil and h barrels were made then.
It's a 64-1, and Jose, it points great, like you said. I do need new grips for it, these make my hand hurt just holding it and I haven't even been able to go to the range and shoot it yet. This is my first double action, how tight is "good" for lockup? Is some movement acceptable, or should it be 100% immovable? I read "buying a used gun" in several places and checked all the bullet points in the articles, the crane locks up well but I can move it a fraction side to side, not quite a finger-nail width, and I think I said before but the cylinder can move a very little bit side to side when trying to turn it. When compared to my 90's Ruger it's about the same, so for a 30+ year old gun I think its still good.
J
Jose
Your pistol is fine.
One thing you need to check is carry up. Slowly pull the hammer back and listen for the click of the cylinder bolt (the little tongue that pops up from the bottom of the frame's cylinder opening to engage the locking notch in the cylinder). You want the bolt to lock up the cylinder before the hammer sear catches. Check that for all six chambers.
If it fails, don't worry. It is still safe and the repair is pretty easy and cheap and consists of a smith fitting a new hand.
If you are like me, you enjoy understanding how your firearms work. If so, buy this book:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=314178
One thing you need to check is carry up. Slowly pull the hammer back and listen for the click of the cylinder bolt (the little tongue that pops up from the bottom of the frame's cylinder opening to engage the locking notch in the cylinder). You want the bolt to lock up the cylinder before the hammer sear catches. Check that for all six chambers.
If it fails, don't worry. It is still safe and the repair is pretty easy and cheap and consists of a smith fitting a new hand.
If you are like me, you enjoy understanding how your firearms work. If so, buy this book:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=314178
That's on my list, first is grips, second a holster, and then the book. A repair manual is always the first thing I get when I get a new vehicle or mower or whatever, can't be happy until I know what's going on inside. That test you just recommended was one of the things I did in the shop before I bought, it locks up on all 6 notches before the hammer clicks back. Tried it slow and fast, no problems there.
Well, turns out I didn't need help deciding, because now I've bought both! I still havent' had time to get my Smith to the range, and found an auction price I couldn't pass up on a Sig p225, so now I've gone and bought another gun! It's a sickness.......
As for the Smith, I'll be picking up a pair of goncalo grips from a forum member on weds, I should be getting a holster in the mail today from another forum member, and now I have to go and find a holster for the Sig, probably will be eventually getting a pair of wood grips for it as well.
As for the Smith, I'll be picking up a pair of goncalo grips from a forum member on weds, I should be getting a holster in the mail today from another forum member, and now I have to go and find a holster for the Sig, probably will be eventually getting a pair of wood grips for it as well.
J
Jose
Here's another teaser for you. Once you get one of these you will experience handgun nirvana.
I was looking at Ahrends and almost decided to go with those, but another forum member gave me a good deal on a set of S&W grips, so here's an updated picture with the new grips. Completely changed the look and feel, can't wait to shoot it.
J
Jose
I had a Model 29 with the same grips but for a round butt. That ridge on the speedloader cutout of the left grip panel cut my hand something fierce. Granted, it was a .44 Magnum, but it hurt even when shooting more than a couple of cylinders of .44 Special.
Now granted, you have a .38 Special, and your hands may be much bigger than mine, so this may not be a problem for you at all. But if it is, rest assured Ahrends grips will fix it. Take a look at the shape of the speedloader cut on the Ahrends that are on my gun so you can see the obvious difference.
Now granted, you have a .38 Special, and your hands may be much bigger than mine, so this may not be a problem for you at all. But if it is, rest assured Ahrends grips will fix it. Take a look at the shape of the speedloader cut on the Ahrends that are on my gun so you can see the obvious difference.
Thanks for the heads up. I'll give it a try, shoot at least a couple boxes of standard load 158 LRN through it and see what's what. Who knows, maybe I'll end up getting a set of Ahrends after all. OR, maybe I'll end up modifying these a little bit. Gotta get to the range first before I make any decisions.
Are yours the Tacticals? The reason I ask is the retro's look a lot like these.
Are yours the Tacticals? The reason I ask is the retro's look a lot like these.
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J
Jose
Yep, mine are the Ahrends tacticals. His retros have the same problem as the factory S&W combat grips you have.
Whatever you do, do not mutilate those S&W grips. They are quite valuable in the collector's market, bringing $100+ for a pair in excellent condition.
Whatever you do, do not mutilate those S&W grips. They are quite valuable in the collector's market, bringing $100+ for a pair in excellent condition.
Wow, good to know. Like I said, I wont do anything until I shoot it as is. My p225 should be in tomorrow also, maybe I'll make it a dual shoot day.
J
