Lubrication

I"ve always just used WD-40 on the practice and match guns, cause it gets replaced/cleaned off a lot. For duty guns, I degrease them with rubbing alchohol, because oils hurt the car wax that I then put on their exteriors (2 coats) as rust preventative. For the friction areas, I use tiny amounts of LockEase graphite (your hardware store should have it). Graphite will "migrate" and stain clothing if you overdo it. Good guns need very little of this lube, to include AR-15's.
 
So you guys are mixing mobile 1 synthetic with Tranny Fluid? What does your setup actually look like? In other words do you use as a delivery method?
 
walkit said:
I"ve always just used WD-40 on the practice and match guns, cause it gets replaced/cleaned off a lot. For duty guns, I degrease them with rubbing alchohol, because oils hurt the car wax that I then put on their exteriors (2 coats) as rust preventative. For the friction areas, I use tiny amounts of LockEase graphite (your hardware store should have it). Graphite will "migrate" and stain clothing if you overdo it. Good guns need very little of this lube, to include AR-15's.
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you might want to stop the we-40, just a suggestion....
 
walkit said:
I"ve always just used WD-40 on the practice and match guns, cause it gets replaced/cleaned off a lot. For duty guns, I degrease them with rubbing alchohol, because oils hurt the car wax that I then put on their exteriors (2 coats) as rust preventative. For the friction areas, I use tiny amounts of LockEase graphite (your hardware store should have it). Graphite will "migrate" and stain clothing if you overdo it. Good guns need very little of this lube, to include AR-15's.
Click to expand...

Good guns won't run for very long with out proper lube.
WD-40 is a water Displacement and Graphite can speed up corrosion on AL. You might as well lube with Peanut butter and Pixie dust
 
Supermoto said:
Good guns won't run for very long with out proper lube.
WD-40 is a water Displacement and Graphite can speed up corrosion on AL. You might as well lube with Peanut butter and Pixie dust
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Peanut butter can get pretty oily when it heats up and separates. You never know, could make a good lube.
 
M1911 said:
Don't matter. Really. Whatever I've got hanging around. No, I don't mix it with ATF.
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I don't mix my synthetic with ATF either. I have found that 5wt synthetic works well in my 22 rimfires and 20wt seems to be the same viscosity as the gun oils on the market. I use the 20wt on everything but the rimfire semi autos.
 
I use a moly-teflone. Specifically Brownells Friction Defense. I've been using the same 4 oz bottle for the last three years on all mine, relatives and friends firearms and still have half the bottle left. It forms a bond with the metal and works from -75° F to 425° F. Just a few of drops does the whole action. I work it in with q-tips in hard to reach areas then let it sit a minute, wipe down. I also put a drop or two on a patch as the final barrel swab. The outside I just use a good gun oil. It also has rust prevention and moisture displacement quailities. Stuffs great. I went up to get the link but it looks like they've improved on it since I got mine. Anyway:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=31825/Product/FRICTION_DEFENSE_reg__XTREME_GUN_OIL
 
Since WD-40 has worked just fine for 35 years or so, and nearly 1/4 million rds, I don't think so. It has many other uses for which it works fine, too. to include drying out wet ignition systems. i dont want anything in the "duty guns" works that might "gum up" over time, or from the cold, or which holds dust or sand. Oils and greases don't "get it". I dont care if the practice guns have the occasional malfunction, I can use the practice at "clearing" such probs. The duty rifle and pistol are shot very little, because I dont want the fouling or the parts wear/breakage risk on them.
Again, such is not a worry with the "practice guns".
 
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walkit said:
I"ve always just used WD-40 on the practice and match guns, cause it gets replaced/cleaned off a lot. For duty guns, I degrease them with rubbing alchohol, because oils hurt the car wax that I then put on their exteriors (2 coats) as rust preventative. For the friction areas, I use tiny amounts of LockEase graphite (your hardware store should have it). Graphite will "migrate" and stain clothing if you overdo it. Good guns need very little of this lube, to include AR-15's.
Click to expand...

Car wax? Wax would make the surface slippery. I would rather let the gun rust than make it hard to grasp.
 
That's an interesting lube ritual. I don't think I would use WD-40, because WD really isn't much of a lubricant. It's better for cleaning and dispersing water than it is as a long term lubricant...I would stick with gun oil over WD.

My dad had changed to grease and was complaining about it gunking up a bit after his last trip to the range. We'll see....more testing shall be conducted.
 
walkit said:
Since WD-40 has worked just fine for 35 years or so, and nearly 1/4 million rds, I don't think so. It has many other uses for which it works fine, too. to include drying out wet ignition systems. i dont want anything in the "duty guns" works that might "gum up" over time, or from the cold, or which holds dust or sand. Oils and greases don't "get it". I dont care if the practice guns have the occasional malfunction, I can use the practice at "clearing" such probs. The duty rifle and pistol are shot very little, because I dont want the fouling or the parts wear/breakage risk on them.
Again, such is not a worry with the "practice guns".
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I don't believe it. Heavy use with WD 40 will produce excessive wear.
 
Gammon said:
+1. WD 40 is NOT a lubricant.
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Nor is it any good for guns unless you are trying to get water out of them. Water Displacement formula 40.
Once the aerosol carrier evaporates, it leaves a sticky, gooey residue. Synthetic oil or CLP works great.

A shooter at the skeet fields was having problems with his Remington 12 Ga. autoloader (Not sure if it was an 1100 or 1187) I asked him if he used lube on it. "Oh yeah, I just cleaned it and sprayed with WD-40." I had him pull the foe-end off and gave it a liberal dose of Break Free. I saw him a few weeks later and he commented on how his gun had performed flawlessly since.
 
For something like a SIG or a tight 1911, I use grease on the rails (I'll go with what Bruce Gray says is good). I got some Militec and that seems to work well because it's tacky/stringy and stays put. For something like a Glock I use motor oil.

Considering how good modern conventional motor oils are, I doubt synthetic is any benefit on a gun but I use Mobil 1 because that's what I buy for my car. Oil changes in my car always leave a bit left over so I put that in a container for gun use.

I also use motor oil on my XCR and AR. The M1A gets grease.
 
After reading this I might switch to Mobil 1. Maybe even mix alittle ATF in it.

Are these good for carry pieces, too? I know Sig recommends the grease, but that never made sense to me for my CCW.
 
Serapis said:
After reading this I might switch to Mobil 1. Maybe even mix alittle ATF in it.

Are these good for carry pieces, too? I know Sig recommends the grease, but that never made sense to me for my CCW.
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I've been using Mobil 1/ATF on my 229 since I brought it home. I carried it daily while working armed security last summer, rain or shine, and continue to carry it as my winter ccw. No issues so far, it still kills cardboard quite reliably.
 

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