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M1 Garand Megathread
- Thread starter ridleyman
- Start date
Thank you. After receiving your message, I went in and saw my order in the E-store too. There seems to be movement on a lot of orders recently.
Thats how they do it
Go through the orders , get everything all packed up and just run all the orders out the door
CMP seems to be catching up on the FG's (or upgrade SG's). Time between DBU, E-store hit, and shipment is compressing quite a bit.
Apparently I spoke too soon. Based on the feedback in the CMP forum, any of us who ordered early September should be due a request to upgrade or perhaps credit card hit- maybe even ship. They flushed out a bunch of FG's and upgrade SG's and now seem to be stalled out. They have a unique way of doing things, but we know that.
IHC in its first competition did OK. For those of you who are not familiar with CMP matches, the 10-ring is 7" so basically you are trying to get 'head shots' at 200 yards with a WW2 rifle and iron sights. Relay 2 pit service was a cluster due to being short people even though we had a non-shooting volunteer. Despite that, shot a 95-3X in slow prone and an 88 in rapids. 9's and 8's in rapids my fault- rifle would have easily held the 10-ring. Somehow I f-ed up and shot a miss in offhand but still ended up with a 259-3 which is an OK score and would have been much higher if I shot better. I guess there really is something about those LMR barrels. Still very happy with this M1 more or less just like it came from the CMP.
I made the same observation regarding CMP order processing. They appear to have stopped at 9/1 
. Mine, of course, is a 9/1 FG order. They seem to have processed / shipped orders thru August 30.
Like you, I am hoping for the upgrade option. Hope may be fading....
. Mine, of course, is a 9/1 FG order. They seem to have processed / shipped orders thru August 30. Like you, I am hoping for the upgrade option. Hope may be fading....
The pisser is that they seem to have shifted resources to their 'Expert Grade' factory. Those things are flying out the door.I made the same observation regarding CMP order processing. They appear to have stopped at 9/1
Like you, I am hoping for the upgrade option. Hope may be fading....
I think between short staff and how they do things it can be a cluster f***.
I dont know really. I only know one person who has been to cmp and did a armorers corse and did some volunteer work there . So I can only go by what he says. This was a good few years ago also
He told me the custom shop is rather small but very productive for its size and the processing center is a different animal
I think with all the specials they have been pumping out they must have a large percent of receivers only?
So if they are running through crates and finding incomplete field grades or rotted out barrels there is not a lot of options until the surplus parts bins fill up with enough “original” parts to start assembling rifles with “original surplus” parts.
The wait can be crazy
I have waited over a year and as quick as 4 weeks
I waited 5 years for a 22lr order
Anyone remember that cluster f***
I guess that 22LR situation sets the all time (low) bar.
We know there is a big pile of Philippine returns with rotted wood and/or barrels. Enough to stoke up that 'Expert Grade' factory. Apparently there were plenty of rotted receivers too, enough to make these:
Got the upgrade email today!
![[banana]](https://www.northeastshooters.com/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/029.GIF "[banana]")
Me too. That means we are getting close to shipment. I accepted the upgrade to Service Grade. You?Got the upgrade email today!![[banana]](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7 "[banana]")
Quick question:
My gas plug on my Garand becomes very loose and unthreads while I shoot it. Is this normal? It is a CMP Garand and I’m just wondering if there is a fix or should I replace part?
My gas plug on my Garand becomes very loose and unthreads while I shoot it. Is this normal? It is a CMP Garand and I’m just wondering if there is a fix or should I replace part?
How are you tightening it?
Can you see and damage or wear?
Which plug do you have
Solid single slot
Or cross slotted
Last : what are you using to tighten it and how are you holding the riifle?
I use a larger size “water pump” pliers with padded jaws to hold the gas lock then a 1/4” drive extension and ratchet to tighten the gas screw.
It does not need to be all that tight. I do check mine each match though.
Like this but I just use a set of padded pliers/leather taped on
Clean the threads really well then tighten it good.
If you dont like improvising with tools
Gas Cylinder Wrench - GarandGear
The M1 Garand Gas Cylinder Wrench is an important tool that allows you to tighten your gas plug without damaging the barrel splines.
www.garandgear.com
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Mac has already provided a good answer regarding the tools.
As long as threads are not stripped on the plug nor in the cylinder, the plug should not come loose if properly tightened. I keep mine very tight and have not had a problem. You need some sort of tool to hold the barrel+cylinder while torquing down the plug, otherwise you will not have enough leverage to get it adequately tight. Don't use anything on the threads- no thread locker, no anti-seize.
If you are anywhere near the Wachusett or Worcester area, send me a PM and we can tighten that up w/ proper tools if you don't have them.
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Mesatchornug
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So I shouldn't just clamp it between my thighs or use the plumber's vice?
Besides showing butt cracks, what other vices do plumbers have?
Dorky word puns aside, holding the barrel and cylinder assembly in some sort of padded vise should work. For sure you don't want to be holding the stock somehow and then torque against that.
I do need to get the proper tool. But once I tighten with what I got (very carefully, not to crank down or cross thread) it comes loose after 3 or 4 rounds.How are you tightening it?
Can you see and damage or wear?
Which plug do you have
Solid single slot
Or cross slotted
Last : what are you using to tighten it and how are you holding the riifle?
I use a larger size “water pump” pliers with padded jaws to hold the gas lock then a 1/4” drive extension and ratchet to tighten the gas screw.
It does not need to be all that tight. I do check mine each match though.
Like this but I just use a set of padded pliers/leather taped on
View attachment 607081
Clean the threads really well then tighten it good.
If you dont like improvising with tools
Gas Cylinder Wrench - GarandGear
The M1 Garand Gas Cylinder Wrench is an important tool that allows you to tighten your gas plug without damaging the barrel splines.
Sounds like I just need the right tool and not be so cautious when I tighten down. Thank you Gentlemen! I would assume this affects accuracy?? My 100 yard zero has been a few clicks off up and down every time I shoot it.
Thanks for the invite but I’m not near the Worcester area
If it's loose, for sure it will affect accuracy.Sounds like I just need the right tool and not be so cautious when I tighten down. Thank you Gentlemen! I would assume this affects accuracy?? My 100 yard zero has been a few clicks off up and down every time I shoot it.
Thanks for the invite but I’m not near the Worcester area
I don't know the actual torque value, but for example if you were to use a big flat blade screwdriver you cannot get enough torque. Small ratchet and driver like Mac showed or the actual Garand tools will get you the torque you need.
Mesatchornug
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LOL I figured you knew better and turns out you were referencing this 'vice'.
Mesatchornug
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Regardless, I was joking.
cathouse01
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I’ve spent several hours on a fruitless search for a torque value for the gas plug. There isn’t one, even in the manufacturing spec or the armorer’s manual. Back then, the idea that a grunt in the field or even an armorer would have access to a torque wrench was unthinkable.
While that's true about the field, one would think that Springfield, Winchester, H&R, and International Harvester would have had manufacturing specifications.
No matter, default to RFT and good to go.
cathouse01
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Of course there is the infamous picture of a worker at the Springfield factory closing up a Garand using a wooden mallet.
So I’m not sure the even the factory would be worried about getting the torque on the gas block just right. I expect they also just used the RFT rule.
What are you using and how.
My gas cylinders are fugngoudenteiten
Must be some other issues
I will offer plymouth pembroke area. My tools are not “specialty” but do workSounds like I just need the right tool and not be so cautious when I tighten down. Thank you Gentlemen! I would assume this affects accuracy?? My 100 yard zero has been a few clicks off up and down every time I shoot it.
Thanks for the invite but I’m not near the Worcester area
The torque value can be achieved with the M10 tool.
Here is a more modern version for both types
AmmoGarand's M1 Garand Combo Tool Gas Clylinder Lock Screw Wrench Cross and Single Slot Head
M1 Garand Gas Screw Wrench for single and cross slot gas screws. US made by AmmoGarand.
ammogarand.com
You can get the older M3a1 tool
Or the M10 tool
Im sure some version if the plumbers vice was used by GI? Or just had Big Carl holding onto it?
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Maybe not, who knows. Closing up with a mallet is apples and oranges, however. A couple of my new stocks are best closed with a mallet, though I use a rubber one.
