New Ruger Mk3 stovepiping

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I put 250 CCI standard velocity rounds through my new Mk3 Hunter last night.

I got a lot of stove piping. I'm not sure what the usual expectations is, but I had a hard time making it through 2 consecutive magazines without at least one failure to eject.

Is there some sort of break in time needed?
 
Make sure it's cleaned and lubed. Mine came for the factory with heavy oil/grease on it. If after a brick of high velocity and you don't feel like sending it back to Ruger get a Volqartsen Edge Extractor. I have two MkIII's that I bought new. The regular one has been near perfect since day one. The 22/45 stove piped like crazy. No cleaning, lubing, breaking-in, or ammo would run without stove-pipes. I put the edge extractor in and it's near perfect.
 
+1 on the VQ exact edge extractor....[grin]

Make sure it's cleaned and lubed. Mine came for the factory with heavy oil/grease on it. If after a brick of high velocity and you don't feel like sending it back to Ruger get a Volqartsen Edge Extractor. I have two MkIII's that I bought new. The regular one has been near perfect since day one. The 22/45 stove piped like crazy. No cleaning, lubing, breaking-in, or ammo would run without stove-pipes. I put the edge extractor in and it's near perfect.
 
Make sure it's cleaned and lubed. Mine came for the factory with heavy oil/grease on it. If after a brick of high velocity and you don't feel like sending it back to Ruger get a Volqartsen Edge Extractor. I have two MkIII's that I bought new. The regular one has been near perfect since day one. The 22/45 stove piped like crazy. No cleaning, lubing, breaking-in, or ammo would run without stove-pipes. I put the edge extractor in and it's near perfect.

thanks for the recommendation. Now to find a place that has them in stock..
 
if it the range today i will see if this is occurring when shooting with one hand, i thought it happening with both one and two handed grip.

Even two handed. Sometimes you can get very comfortable and hold the gun really wimpy but Rugers are not as prone to this as some others due the the weight of the gun.
 
+1 on the extractor. I haven't needed it in the mk3 yet, but it solved my stovepiping problems in the 10/22. (It's the same part)
 
WTF has changed with Ruger? I read more posts about 10/22's and Mark III's having issues than I thought was possible. Is it a change in manufacturing process? Outsourcing? Magazine disconnect on the Mark III's... I have had the same two Rugers, (10/22 and Mark II) for well over half my life and other than a few bad rounds, cannot remember a malfunction and I horribly abused these guns as a teenager...I can;t dream of needing to modify a new gun to make it reliable - can't dream it. What's different? It should be right from the first trigger pull....[thinking]
 
There is a simple mod for the magazine feed lips that will cure malfunctions.
You will have to Google it.

Jack
This is probably what you're referring to: http://xavierthoughts.blogspot.com/2008/10/mkii-magazine-tweak.html
MassMark said:
What's different?
I also have had excellent experiences with both the MKIIs and 10/22s...Heck, every old Ruger I've shot has been very pleasant to shoot. The new ones are apparently either "fixed" (lawyered-up design to "make them safer") or just made more cheaply. I will not buy a new 10/22 with what I've been hearing regarding the receivers...I'll end up building one, though.
 
Internet is to blame for all the 10-22 and ruger MK pistols and volume of problems. There are tons of them out there.
1. most problematic issue with new firearms---Not properly detail strip and clean. Most of the stuff on new guns is not lube.
2. wrong ammo. edit In the directions it says to use standard or HV ammo. Also finding the paticular ammo you gun likes.

I also found 2 of my new mags when cleaning them to have a lint like substance coating the inside of the mag body.

My ruger MKIII hunter eats and pukes everything I have shoved in it.
 
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Internet is to blame for all the 10-22 and ruger MK pistols.
1. most problematic issue with new firearms---Not properly detail strip and clean. Most of the stuff on new guns is not lube.
2. wrong ammo.

Well that's one of the thing that amazes me. I didn't think there was "wrong ammo".... As a kid, I would buy bulk packs at the IGA Supermarket of god knows what. As an adult, I shoot anything under the sun except Wolf...No problems, other than duds in the bulk packs...
 
My mark 3 runs like a top with everything I've put through it. My 10/22 would start stovepiping after 500 rounds without cleaning, but that stopped when I changed the extractor.
 
My brand new MkIII hunter was the same way until I stripped and cleaned it. I used gun scrubber on everything to remove any factory lubricant then applied CLP to all moving parts. Worked much better after that.

Just to illustrate how big a deal this is: A couple weeks ago I noticed some guys trying out a new rifle. They would take a shot, the rifle would jam, they would then smash the bolt handle against the table to free up the bolt and eject the spent casing....rinse and repeat etc. I field stripped it for them applied CLP to the right places and the rifle worked flawlwssly. The difference between a non functional rifle and one that cycled flawlessly was about 10 drops of CLP!!!

You also may want to switch to CCI mini mags until it get "loosened up".
 
My MK III did the same thing for the first 500 rounds or so. I had completely dis-assembled the pistol before I even shot it. (bought it brand new) There were lots of rough edges inside the frame that I stoned down a little to get the action moving smoother. Then I oiled the piss out of it and shot it like I was trying to kill the gun.

Those strange stovepipe problems (where the spent shell binds up on the recoil spring guide) stopped after that break-in period. I then installed a VQ sear to lighten the trigger up, and it's now one of my favorite .22 pistols to shoot. No more jams with any type of ammo.
 
Make sure it's cleaned and lubed. Mine came for the factory with heavy oil/grease on it. If after a brick of high velocity and you don't feel like sending it back to Ruger get a Volqartsen Edge Extractor. I have two MkIII's that I bought new. The regular one has been near perfect since day one. The 22/45 stove piped like crazy. No cleaning, lubing, breaking-in, or ammo would run without stove-pipes. I put the edge extractor in and it's near perfect.

I gave it a couple quick shots of Hoppes lubricant and worked the action a bit and headed to the range a little while ago.

went through 300 rounds with a friend and not a single stovepipe or jam.

100 rounds remington wildcat 22
100 rounds thunderbolt
100 rounds CCI standard

Hadn't noticed the difference between CCI and the high velocity until I switched back and forth between mags... Very noticeable difference in recoil
 
Hadn't noticed the difference between CCI and the high velocity until I switched back and forth between mags... Very noticeable difference in recoil

Tell me about it. I shoot either CCI SV or Aguilla SV (from the CMP) for .22 Bullseye. If I put in Federal 550 bulk it's like I'm shooting a Magnum [wink].
 
I put 250 CCI standard velocity rounds through my new Mk3 Hunter last night.

I got a lot of stove piping. I'm not sure what the usual expectations is, but I had a hard time making it through 2 consecutive magazines without at least one failure to eject.

Is there some sort of break in time needed?

My Mark III Target in stainless steel had a rolled-under hook on the extractor with less than 1,000 rounds through it. It was stovepiping CCI Minimags every other magazine.

I ordered a Volquartsen Exact-Edge Extractor and performed the magazine lip modification that is described in the Ruger Help Forums on-line. I just rounded the sharp edge on the magazine and didn't remove a lot of material. I did four magazines with a flat jewelers file in less than an hour.

Five-thousand rounds later (mainly Federal Bulk Pack) and I have yet to experience a stovepipe or any other fail-to-feed or fail-to-eject problem. Ruger lists the replacement extractor for a dollar and change, and it seems you get what you pay for. The Exact-Edge Extractor looks as good as the day I installed it.

When I recently got a Ruger 10/22, I replaced the extractor after my third outing with it. The extractor was already well rounded. It is easy to criticize Ruger for this, but when I read comments about people squawking about a $10 price difference on a gun, maintaining that $199 price for a basic carbine is more important than providing a will-run-forever product. [wink]
 
Items 18 & 19 here: http://data.ruger.com/Firearms/PDF/P...oklets/C13.pdf are the rebound spring and rebound spring support.

My question is how to orient that rebound spring support when I put the firing pin back in. The support is like a little bent L laying on the long side. I could put it in like this with the slanted end facing up:

____/

Or, I could make the slanted end face down like (pretend the \ is on the right end):

___
\

The diagram makes it look like the angled part points down, but a knowledgeable friend told me it should point up.

Opinions please?

ETA: Right now I think it goes in like this:

1084453660_G5auy-L.jpg
 
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Definitely clean it, if you haven't yet...mine was full of all sorts of gunk from the factory. I've also heard a lot of good things about the VQ extractors. I think I've heard rumor that sometimes, if a gun gets really dirty, the loaded chamber indicator can cause feed issues, but that wouldn't cause stovepipes.

I don't have any problems with my MkIII, aside from the periodic stove pipe if it gets really dirty and dry. I tend to shove a lot of Blazer and Federal bulk packs down it's gullet, and don't clean it nearly enough. I need to clean mine more often..the last time I did I was peeling chunks of crap out of it. It was kind of gross. I wouldn't trade mine, it's a great gun.
 
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