Pin/weld muzzle brake job

Pin and weld done properly doesn't expose the barrel to extreme temperatures - silver brazing raises the muzzle to tempering temperatures for significant time.
Yes, of course, but is there documented evidence of it causing structural or accuracy problems? I have never heard anything other than theory and anecdotes. If it has been documented, then I agree would be better to pin/weld. I've personally never had a problem but then I am not a competitive bench shooter. Note that when using silver solder you always should use a heat stop paste on the muzzle to reduce the temp of the barrel. And you are not heating the muzzle for a significant period of time. It's quite fast actually.
 
Yes, of course, but is there documented evidence of it causing structural or accuracy problems? I have never heard anything other than theory and anecdotes. If it has been documented, then I agree would be better to pin/weld. I've personally never had a problem but then I am not a competitive bench shooter. Note that when using silver solder you always should use a heat stop paste on the muzzle to reduce the temp of the barrel. And you are not heating the muzzle for a significant period of time. It's quite fast actually.
As far as I know for silver soldering the entire thread surface is required to be wetted which means the muzzle device needs to be heated to above wetting temp (higher than melt) long enough to transfer enough energy to heat the barrel thread surface to the 1100°+ temperature necessary for reflow. There is significant mass being heated to well above tempering levels

With a pin& weld, the weld doesn't need to reach the threads as long as the pin reaches to the bottom of the threads (0.022"). Then you only need to capture the head of the pin to the muzzle device - with a 0.125" pin an autogenous TIG weld will need far less heat input to the muzzle device and none to the barrel itself (a good welder should be able to do this and keep the barrel peak temperature to under 200°)
 
As far as I know for silver soldering the entire thread surface is required to be wetted which means the muzzle device needs to be heated to above wetting temp (higher than melt) long enough to transfer enough energy to heat the barrel thread surface to the 1100°+ temperature necessary for reflow. There is significant mass being heated to well above tempering levels

With a pin& weld, the weld doesn't need to reach the threads as long as the pin reaches to the bottom of the threads (0.022"). Then you only need to capture the head of the pin to the muzzle device - with a 0.125" pin an autogenous TIG weld will need far less heat input to the muzzle device and none to the barrel itself (a good welder should be able to do this and keep the barrel peak temperature to under 200°)
Thanks for this info and I do believe in science. But this doesn't address my point that I've seen no evidence of structural problems or changes in accuracy for silver soldered brakes, it is ATF-approved and is a common practice. You also don't have to worry about finding a good welder. As such, there is no reason to bother with pin and welding when silver solder is a simple DIY job that anyone can do and can be reversed without grinding or any potential destruction of the brake. Silver solder is a 10 minute job.
 
Pin and weld done properly doesn't expose the barrel to extreme temperatures - silver brazing raises the muzzle to tempering temperatures for significant time.
You know what wouldn't expose the barrel to extreme temperatures? Drilling a dimple on the brake and putting on a dab of paint.
 
This 80PA stuff is what to use for silver soldering?

 
I believe its also been done by drilling a hole and tapping it. thread in a bolt, and cut it off. finish with a file/ sandpaper

That’s not a fed approved method and is a waste of time. I mean the whole thing is stupid but if compliance with this AWB bullshit is a goal that’s not going to achieve it.
 
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