Recent cmp m1 garand stock refinish results

[cetme24]

Recently received a service grade mixmaster springfield m1 garand made in July of 1942. It came with a 2015 cmp walnut stock that had no major dents or damage but was not fit at all. It was not relieved on the receiver, the barrel was pressing on one side of the stock and the operating rod was hitting along the side. I was hoping to take this to the Pembroke cmp match but figured I would fit and Finnish it first. This is the result of fitting the stock, stripping the dark cmp stain, sanding all the thick points down to a uniform contour to the metal and 7 coats of hand rubbed raw linseed oil. I did rush on a quick assembly for photos and the last coat hasn't soaked in all the way yet so it still has a little more shine than it will in the end. The photos don't do the grain in the stock justice. I know quite a few are upset with receiving cmp wood, but with a little work these stocks do clean up and show nice. For a shooter you can't complain especially with the extremely tight lockup these stocks provide verses what you could be getting with a surplus stock.

 

[grizquad]

Looks great! Nice work.

 

[Individualist]

That looks terrific. Very clean job. The grain shows through beautifully.

 

[dw617]

Looks great. Next (and last match of the season) is 6 November.

 

[cetme24]

I will be planning on it as long as my overtime allows

 

[dw617]

Great! The flier on the website says to show at 8am but it's been pushed to 9am due to noise complaints.

 

[cetme24]

Cool you would think if you are going to buy a house next to a rifle range it should be expected you are going to hear gun shots. I guess it like those people that live near airports but complains about the noise, or railroad tracks. FYI for those that do, don't buy near those areas if you can't help yourself from complaining.

 

[99105]

That's a fine looking rifle.

 

[mac1911]

Cool you would think if you are going to buy a house next to a rifle range it should be expected you are going to hear gun shots. I guess it like those people that live near airports but complains about the noise, or railroad tracks. FYI for those that do, don't buy near those areas if you can't help yourself from complaining.

this is true but for many years on sundays its been 10am at Pembroke before you can shoot. other clubs its 12pm....

 

[mac1911]

Recently received a service grade mixmaster springfield m1 garand made in July of 1942. It came with a 2015 cmp walnut stock that had no major dents or damage but was not fit at all. It was not relieved on the receiver, the barrel was pressing on one side of the stock and the operating rod was hitting along the side. I was hoping to take this to the Pembroke cmp match but figured I would fit and Finnish it first. This is the result of fitting the stock, stripping the dark cmp stain, sanding all the thick points down to a uniform contour to the metal and 7 coats of hand rubbed raw linseed oil. I did rush on a quick assembly for photos and the last coat hasn't soaked in all the way yet so it still has a little more shine than it will in the end. The photos don't do the grain in the stock justice. I know quite a few are upset with receiving cmp wood, but with a little work these stocks do clean up and show nice. For a shooter you can't complain especially with the extremely tight lockup these stocks provide verses what you could be getting with a surplus stock.
View attachment 180323
View attachment 180324

The new cmp wood boyds manufactures them... its all a 125$ stock should be..... your lucky it fits and was heavy in spots rather than loose. They do take a little care to assure they fit well. You can also tweek them a little for better accuracy. my front handguard was so tight it was actually digging into the front lower band! .... my CMP new wood stocks where horrible and need ALOT of fitting. both function and cosmetic. Come on down to Pembroke now.....

 

[Mountain]

Looks good, I really like the grain on that.

I don't think the grain on my 'Special' looks quite as nice, but I did luck out for fit. Passed all the tilt tests and anything else I could try. Shoots way better than I can.

One comment- I was told this and witnessed firsthand: It may take a few shots for your action to settle in to the stock after you put it back together.

 

[chuckster]

Nicely done!!!

 

[cetme24]

I was thinking about that. I bought a bunch of the loose surplus from the cmp and I'm going to run some of that while I work it out before I work up any reloads. My dad has a garand I was making reloads for before I new much about them. I could not get anything consistent, and that's when the trigger assembly fell out because the lockup was so loose. This rifle has had a lot of reading done before anything has been done and I'm taking my time.

 

[cetme24]

If any one needs to make a handgaurd clip removal tool instead of paying 25 plus and shipping I found that a 6 dollar piston ring removal tool and a minute on the belt sander works perfect with no risk of snapping the wood. If you look for them they may look different to you because I removed the additional metal tabs that were attached to the tips
.

 

[Mountain]

Nice work on the tool.

I think it was mac1911 who mentioned ~30 shots or so to settle in after reassembly. Seemed to be about right based on last time I had mine apart.

 

[dw617]

If any one needs to make a handgaurd clip removal tool instead of paying 25 plus and shipping I found that a 6 dollar piston ring removal tool and a minute on the belt sander works perfect with no risk of snapping the wood. If you look for them they may look different to you because I removed the additional metal tabs that were attached to the tips
.View attachment 180342

You can also use a bench vice, 2 pieces of bailing wire and a vice grip. Attach one piece of wire to vice and one side of HG. Attach wire to other side of HG and lock it the vice grips. Pull vice grips then twist the handguard out of the clip. Works great.

 

[71montess]

How did you strip the dark CMP stain ?

 

[mac1911]

Nice work on the tool.

I think it was mac1911 who mentioned ~30 shots or so to settle in after reassembly. Seemed to be about right based on last time I had mine apart.

Yes some settling shots are always needed in my rifles.
I don't take my rifles out of the action unless they are broken or get wet. I do a yearly inspection.
If I don't see anything concerning back in the gun socks that have rust inhibitor impregnated in them.
Plus I put these in my safe..https://www.theruststore.com/Bull-Frog-Emitter-Shield-P25C12.aspx .https://www.theruststore.com/Bull-Frog-Emitter-Shield-P25C12.aspx

A few points for accuracy
Check rear hand guard , you should be able to get a business card in between the receiver and the wood.
Front handguard should have a touch of play after gas cylinder is installed.
Gas cylinder right. No left to right movement. You can peen the top spline on the barrel....once you get it right leave it alone. No reason to remove until something brakes.
Trigger job..... directions are over on CMP forums. Simple easy and it works. Just go slow and a little goes a long way.
Good crown.....if the crown is rough so will your groups

Consistency from a M1 can be tough remember these where battle rifles built in mass amounts and have the ability to swap parts in the field if needed.
The ammo of the time was Good enough for GI at 4moa . If you read up on the testing they use a median average which can let even worse ammo get through to a certain percentage...same as the rifles.M1 where at 4% IIRC
Also I found my rifles don't like a "sled" type of rest. They will shoot better with a front rest just behind the sling swivel and rear bag.

I still see people rest the front handguard/gas cylinder on the rest or bags.
So if you can get your 60-80 year old rifle shooting 4 moa-ish with HXP your doing well. My build with new Criterion barrel is a 2moa rifle with reloads from supported position...that's the best consistently. I pulled a few 1.6" 8 shot groups. As I,mentioned a few times minute of black is my standard.... for me and my rifles. SR 1 target at 100 yards the black bull is 6 moa.

Accuracy standard for the M1 is 1.77" group at 1000" INCHES.

Post #36 shows some stock fit issues and different stocks.


https://www.northeastshooters.com/v...-special-Calling-it-DONE?highlight=HRA+barrel

Post

 

[cetme24]

How did you strip the dark CMP stain ?

I did a lot of sanding and, when I was half way done I used a rag soaked in thinner to get as much stain out as I could. I then finished sanding.

 

[Jbarila]

Very nice job.

 

[cetme24]

Yes some settling shots are always needed in my rifles.
I don't take my rifles out of the action unless they are broken or get wet. I do a yearly inspection.
If I don't see anything concerning back in the gun socks that have rust inhibitor impregnated in them.
Plus I put these in my safe..https://www.theruststore.com/Bull-Frog-Emitter-Shield-P25C12.aspx .https://www.theruststore.com/Bull-Frog-Emitter-Shield-P25C12.aspx

A few points for accuracy tently. I pulled a few 1.6" 8 shot groups. As I,mentioned a

Post #36 shows some stock fit issues and different stocks.


https://www.northeastshooters.com/v...-special-Calling-it-DONE?highlight=HRA+barrel

Post

i

i followed the same fitting procedure you posted from the cmp. It was very helpful and well thought out.

 

[Oldarmy]

Looks great. I long for an M1 and wish I could afford one. Jealous.

 

[mac1911]

Looks great. I long for an M1 and wish I could afford one. Jealous.

Let me help you with that....
Tell me what you bought that you didn't need this week and every week.
I was able to "afford" my first M1 in 2008 simply by stop buying coffee at DD.

Also it's amazing how 1.5-3% adds up on cash back on things you buy everyday.
You could be on your way...credit card offer from chase... 150$ cash back on First 500$ spent in 3 months...that's not hard to do.
As long as my credit cards pay me for using them I'm in.

Yes I know it's no good if your already in debt or can't pay off each month.

 

[powerman]

7 coats of hand rubbed raw linseed oil.

For me it takes 20-30 coats of RAW linseed oil.
Can you still buy the stuff, all I see is BOILED linseed oil, not raw in the store?
I still have half a quart from the Kellogg’s company and could be as old as the guns I have refinished.
A little goes along way.
And I get the “Hand rubbed” part.
I love the feel and the smell myself.

And your riffle is very nice, well done.

 

[cetme24]

For me it takes 20-30 coats of RAW linseed oil.
Can you still buy the stuff, all I see is BOILED linseed oil, not raw in the store?
I still have half a quart from the Kellogg’s company and could be as old as the guns I have refinished.
A little goes along way.
And I get the “Hand rubbed” part.
I love the feel and the smell myself.

And your riffle is very nice, well done.

They sell it at the art store to mix with pigments. They have raw and refined or boiled. The raw isn't cheap it was a little over 40 bucks for 850 ml but it does go a long way. I barely put a dent in the bottle.

 

[me109g4]

I think that the raw linseed will always be a little sticky, even when "dry". Using the boiled is far better.

 

[Cabinetman]

Hi Fellas

This is not a critique in any way but I'd like to just drop a bit of info here about "Raw" vrs "Boiled" oils.

There are some vegetable based oils that are naturally curing and Linseed is one of them. You can use raw (squeezed and filtered) and successfully finish a stock but the problem is that it will take a month for those coats to cure in the atmosphere. And, if you apply multliple coats, you'll be trapping the earlier coats under newer ones and that will keep the early coats from properly curing unless you did allow them to sit for a long while. There's no 'way around this. Raw oils have their place but I wouldn't finish a stock with them.

The "Boiled" finishes are not boiled at all but it has metallic dryers (solvents) added to the raw oil to accelerate the curing process. As the solvent leaves the finish it allows oxygen into the surface curing the oil hard.

Do this test: Pour a cap lid of boiled oii and a cap lid full of "raw" oil. Leave them out untouched over night. The next morning check and you should see a skin formed on the "boiled" cap whereas the raw still looks......and is raw.

I would make sure you put that stock someplace nice and warm, maybe in front of a warm heating vent at home or the like and let it sit there until it really feels dry to your touch.

Finally, after numerous coats, you'll want to apply one last coat using 0000 steel wool dipped in the boiled oil. Burnish your stock with the grain only and it'll knock down the shine that oil tends to leave. Then, for maintenance, wipe it down once a year with a rage with some oil on it. REMEMBER, TOO to hang those rags outside. They WILL combust.

Rome aka Cabinetman

 

[76Too]

GREAT info! I have only used BLO on my fresh CMP stocks, but applied with some wet sand paper (started with 2 or 300 and worked my way up to 600 i think). I think I did 12-15 coats...one a day for a couple weeks. When I pull it out of the safe, it still feels SUPER smooth and not sticky even on the warmest days, and it looks like healthy wood, even though i'm not exactly the most careful about humidity control.

so +1 for BLO...it's just easy to apply. i'm going to try the 0000 steel wool next time for the final few coats and see where it gets me.

Hi Fellas

This is not a critique in any way but I'd like to just drop a bit of info here about "Raw" vrs "Boiled" oils.

There are some vegetable based oils that are naturally curing and Linseed is one of them. You can use raw (squeezed and filtered) and successfully finish a stock but the problem is that it will take a month for those coats to cure in the atmosphere. And, if you apply multliple coats, you'll be trapping the earlier coats under newer ones and that will keep the early coats from properly curing unless you did allow them to sit for a long while. There's no 'way around this. Raw oils have their place but I wouldn't finish a stock with them.

The "Boiled" finishes are not boiled at all but it has metallic dryers (solvents) added to the raw oil to accelerate the curing process. As the solvent leaves the finish it allows oxygen into the surface curing the oil hard.

Do this test: Pour a cap lid of boiled oii and a cap lid full of "raw" oil. Leave them out untouched over night. The next morning check and you should see a skin formed on the "boiled" cap whereas the raw still looks......and is raw.

I would make sure you put that stock someplace nice and warm, maybe in front of a warm heating vent at home or the like and let it sit there until it really feels dry to your touch.

Finally, after numerous coats, you'll want to apply one last coat using 0000 steel wool dipped in the boiled oil. Burnish your stock with the grain only and it'll knock down the shine that oil tends to leave. Then, for maintenance, wipe it down once a year with a rage with some oil on it. REMEMBER, TOO to hang those rags outside. They WILL combust.

Rome aka Cabinetman

 

[Cabinetman]

Ditch the paper too in favor of the steel wool. IT'll produce a much better result. However NEVER EVER use steel wool dry. It'll break of in your surface and actually begin to rust later on. Us steel wool wet with oil in all situations.

Finally you can also use Tung Oil Finish as well, actually it's what Springfield used on their original stocks or some concoction between the two, Tung and Blo.

These finishes are absolutely NOT WATERPROOF at all. They do have some resiliency against moisture so wipe them down when you bring them in as the moisture will find a way in. Thee are ZERO 100% waterproof finishes but you dont' what 'em waterproofed anway. They need to move andn heat up and cool down too.
Rome

 

[mac1911]

Hi Fellas

This is not a critique in any way but I'd like to just drop a bit of info here about "Raw" vrs "Boiled" oils.

There are some vegetable based oils that are naturally curing and Linseed is one of them. You can use raw (squeezed and filtered) and successfully finish a stock but the problem is that it will take a month for those coats to cure in the atmosphere. And, if you apply multliple coats, you'll be trapping the earlier coats under newer ones and that will keep the early coats from properly curing unless you did allow them to sit for a long while. There's no 'way around this. Raw oils have their place but I wouldn't finish a stock with them.

The "Boiled" finishes are not boiled at all but it has metallic dryers (solvents) added to the raw oil to accelerate the curing process. As the solvent leaves the finish it allows oxygen into the surface curing the oil hard.

Do this test: Pour a cap lid of boiled oii and a cap lid full of "raw" oil. Leave them out untouched over night. The next morning check and you should see a skin formed on the "boiled" cap whereas the raw still looks......and is raw.

I would make sure you put that stock someplace nice and warm, maybe in front of a warm heating vent at home or the like and let it sit there until it really feels dry to your touch.

Finally, after numerous coats, you'll want to apply one last coat using 0000 steel wool dipped in the boiled oil. Burnish your stock with the grain only and it'll knock down the shine that oil tends to leave. Then, for maintenance, wipe it down once a year with a rage with some oil on it. REMEMBER, TOO to hang those rags outside. They WILL combust.

Rome aka Cabinetman

I have 2 stocks I will be working on. I will post details as best as possible
1. USGI stock basically a very good cleaning as long as its of no real value. I have not had the time to inspect it yet. Its covered in years of dust and grime
2. Rock ridge Machine 1903A4 clone. has the typical brown finish AKA boyds/dupage/cmp finish....= fugly. I need to do some trigger work on this rifle so its a good time to do the stock.
2. Reproduction C stock on my Rock Ridge

my grand mother was a hobby wood refinisher.
she always told me if you have problems with any finish you did it wrong.
Here take was
Raw oils are goof for fences and stuff you dont care about dry time.
Pure tung oil and BLO for a nice finsish but takes time.
Shellac if you want a somewhat protective layer on the wood that can be repaired some what easily
Poly for the inpatient
My grandmother told me once you can tell if its dry if it still smells of oil.
I like pure tung oil ......although I use Minwax tung oil finish or tru oil on guns I actually shoot ...like my new wood M1 and my pellet guns.