S & W Model 36, 3” Heavy Barrel

[Pharaohawk27]

S & W Model 36, 3” Heavy Barrel

This is another gun I inherited from my father. Unlike the model 36 Chief Special that I have seen and shot before, it sports a heavy three-inch barrel. The frame is the regular J frame with the five holes in the cylinder, which incidentally were charged with Federal Premium .38 Special (+P) 129 grains Hydra-Shock ammunition.

In the rear and front sights, my father had put some liquid paper correction fluid. It is amazing how well it shows, even in low light, in comparison with others revolver sights that use red or orange front sights. I have observed when hunting that white is the last color to disappear in the darkness; it will show well after the orange color had subsided.

In the box with the gun was also a set of Herret’s wooden grips and the original S&W banana grips, but the gun sports an oversized grip made by Sile. At least that is what it says in the escutcheon that shows an American eagle grasping arrows and what looks like a snake in its talons.
The grips fit perfectly all around. It makes me wonder if they were custom made, since they are also a perfect fit for my hand. It tames the recoil of the Hydra-Shock plus P ammo to a point that it is pleasant to shoot many rounds.

Two speed loader HKS models 36 were stored with the gun; they also are loaded with the Federal ammo. I had the opportunity to shoot the gun at the sand pit in the country property, where we have a range of sorts. He never got around installing a steel silhouette, but there were plenty of clay targets in a box in the garage.
The gun delivers to point of aim at 15 yards with the 129 grain + P ammo, with enough accuracy to break all the clay targets that I shot at. The action of the gun seems to be much smoother than the usual Chief Special. It may be that he had improved the action himself, as he was very mechanically adept and had plenty of gunsmithing tools.

Sincerely,
Pharaohawk

 

[FPrice]

That's a really nice revolver he left you. Larger grips do help tame recoil in smaller guns like that and make them a joy to shoot.

 

[dwarven1]

Nice revolver, PH.

Regarding Siles grips: as the stock S&W grips do not fit my hand well, I got a pair of Siles grips out of the used bin when I bought my Model 19 and put them on before the gun even left the shop. I liked them so much that I left the gun dealer the S&W grips. I never regretted that for a second; those grips fit me perfectly.

 

[RKG]

I'd be cautious about feeding that revolver a regular diet of +P ammunition. J-Frames were not designed for +P and you are likely to develop an end shake.

 

[TY43215]

From memory, the 3"HB 36-1 (I assume it has the dash) was originally designed for the NYCPD women. They needed something smaller than the Model 10 and settled on the 36-1.

These were designed for mid range 38spl but will take +P with no problems at all as defense fodder. To shoot thousands of rounds of +P would probably do as much damage to your hand as the revolver

Sile made grips for S&W for a lot of years. Some with the Sile logo but some with the S&W logo. They are a very good grip but not usually custom.

You have a very fine specimen there that is a keeper. If not for you let me know They are currently reproducing them under the classic line.

 

[depicts]

Nice piece. The Model 36 is one of my favorites. I'd like to find one like that myself. Take good care of it.

Bill

 

[Jose]

These were designed for mid range 38spl but will take +P with no problems at all as defense fodder. To shoot thousands of rounds of +P would probably do as much damage to your hand as the revolver

+1

 

[Jose]

I'd be cautious about feeding that revolver a regular diet of +P ammunition. J-Frames were not designed for +P and you are likely to develop an end shake.

-1

Any steel framed model numbered S&W J frame will handle moderate amounts of +P without issue.

And I have an aluminum-framed J made specifically for +P loads.

 

[Jose]

That's a sweet carry piece.

I strongly recommend you try Safariland Comp I speedloaders. They are lightning fast compared to what you were given.

 

[TY43215]

-1

Any steel framed model numbered S&W J frame will handle moderate amounts of +P without issue.

And I have an aluminum-framed J made specifically for +P loads.

What RKG wrote is very true. I serviced revolvers for 5 local departments and one small Federal agency branch office and found end shake the greatest repair item although J frames are no more prone to it than the N frames were.

If you ask S&W they will tell you stay away from +P prior to 1970 vintage. Model numbered frames started in the 50s.

 

[Jose]

I serviced revolvers for 5 local departments and one small Federal agency branch office and found end shake the greatest repair item although J frames are no more prone to it than the N frames were.

Doesn't that reinforce my point?

 

[TY43215]

Doesn't that reinforce my point?

Please don't ask me to qualify your inexperience.

You wrote

Any steel framed model numbered S&W J frame will handle moderate amounts of +P without issue.

That is WRONG

 

[Mike1911]

Model 36 with a 2" barrel was my 1st .38 I ever owned! I traded it for a Model 60 .38 S&W, 2" Stainless. I still have that and it's over 30 years old.

 

[ronbok]

That's a sweet carry piece.

I strongly recommend you try Safariland Comp I speedloaders. They are lightning fast compared to what you were given.

The speedloaders I see pictured here...is the same one I have. The knob at the top is large, but with a single short twist the rounds are released.

What's nicer about the Safariland Comp I's? Smaller size, longer rotation of a twist to unlock the rounds? The thing I don't like about the ones pictured is that they can twist too easily and drop the rounds out when you least expect it.

 

[Jose]

The speedloaders I see pictured here...is the same one I have. The knob at the top is large, but with a single short twist the rounds are released.

What's nicer about the Safariland Comp I's? Smaller size, longer rotation of a twist to unlock the rounds? The thing I don't like about the ones pictured is that they can twist too easily and drop the rounds out when you least expect it.

Safariland speedloaders work quite differently from HKS (what's in the picture).

Safarilands are loaded sort of like HKS but with one important difference. To load one, drop the cartridges in. If you are right handed pick up the loader with your right hand and place the bullets in the palm of your left. Then push the knob in and twist clockwise until it clicks. Now the cartridges are secured and will not fall out accidentally because the knob is not used to release the ammo into the gun. If you look in the center of the loader between all the cartridges, you will see a protruding plunger. This plunger lines up with the lock pin in the center of the ejector. When you place the cartridges in the chambers, just grab the loader by the sides of the body and push in smartly. The plunger will be depressed against spring force to the point where it clicks and the cartridges are automatically released.

It takes far fewer motions and time to load the gun because the same grip used to line up the cartridges into the gun is the same one used to release them. Also, pushing in on a large knob (the speedloader itself) is a gross motor skill while trying to graps and turn a small knob is a fine motor skill. And the cartridges will never release until you want them to.