School me on Lever Actions (please?)

andrew1220 said:
Huh? Here’s my deer rifle. I will admit the 3-9x is overkill for deer hunting in Maine but I was cheap and didn’t want to buy another scope as I had this Nikon on hand.
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You've gone down hot road to hell with the sacrilege of black and stainless......might as well add the 3-9X and complete the mission. LOL!![devil2][devil2]
 
andrew1220 said:
Now you got me wanting to mount a red dot to my Henry 44....Never tried that before.
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Seems nice enough. Haven't shot it like that yet. It works like a scope on the optional rail, but I want something closer to the bore so that I can get a good cheek weld without a riser on the buttstock.

This is the second time I've reconfigured my .357M Big Boy Steel by taking off the scope. Both times I was immediately happy with how light the rifle felt without the scope, and the Leupold VX1 is a pretty light scope to begin with. I think it just adds up with the Henry rail and my scope rings (both are steel).

The Skinner dovetail-based weaver mount is OK. It puts the sight only a little bit higher than where I'd prefer it, but it does look quite out-of-place on the barrel. It's a reasonably sturdy mounting, as it has brass recoil lugs on both sides of the barrel's dovetail to prevent the weaver base from rocking under recoil (not that there is much with the .357M), but I'm a little nervous that something unfortunate could happen to one side or other of the barrel's dovetail slot if there were a solid impact on the sight. I've picked out a couple of Weaver bases to see if I can make them work using the rear two screw holes on the receiver. One will put the red dot far enough towards the hammer that it hangs over the back of the receiver a bit, but it should be quite low, maybe even slightly lower than on the barrel mount. The other would move rear edge of the red dot forward of the rear screw, but I will have to grind the base on that one flat to make use of it at all, and I don't think it will be as low as the other.

BTW, I measured the fire formed brass from my last outing with this rifle, and it was only a thousandth or so narrower near the case mouth than at the widest point near the rim. I believe I'd regard the bulging that you experienced with yours awhile back as a manufacturing defect.
 
Fritz the Cat said:
Got one. Great rifle.
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Ive got 2. The long barrel cowboy version and the 22" regular version.

I'd have three but the Guide gun i have is a JM factory ported asskicker in 450 Marlin flavor.

Ive been looking around and I think the pistol cartridge levers Im going Henry probably in 357 flavor Big Boy steel.
 
Finished my receiver rail. Would like the optic to be just a little lower, but it's OK. Would have to go to pistol red dot, I guess. I have thought about it, but I don't like cheap ones, and I'm not ready to fork over the cash for a good one for this application.
 

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As having owned pistol caliber levers, NONE of them shoot as well as the rifle calibers! Like any other firearm, older is better, the new stuff SUCKS! Get a pre crossbolt safety Marlin/Winchester, 30-30 is best. Ammo is cheap and readily available anywhere.
 
meh said:
Finished my receiver rail. Would like the optic to be just a little lower, but it's OK. Would have to go to pistol red dot, I guess. I have thought about it, but I don't like cheap ones, and I'm not ready to fork over the cash for a good one for this application.
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You could cantilever that forward and lower over the barrel.
 
.444 Marlin

Not mine (I don't have one, yet ...):

SpeerDmg.jpg



450 bushmaster vs 45-70 - Google Search

45/70 vs 444 Marlin

Cartridge Clash: .45-70 Gov't vs .444 Marlin - Rifle Shooter

Advantage of 444 Marlin vs. 45-70

.444 Marlin, or 45-70
 
Something I just noticed. The rounds in the stock cuff do not appear to match the rounds in the sling. Those on the stock have blunter noses.
 
Fritz the Cat said:
And the rounds have been placed on the wrong side of the stock.
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Have they?

For a right-handed shooter, who place's his/her cheek against the left-hand side of the stock, the rounds do not interfere with their cheek-weld. And when they need to re-load, the right hand comes off the trigger, plucks a round out of the cuff, and moves it up the the loading slot.

Seems correct to me.
 
FPrice said:
Have they?

For a right-handed shooter, who place's his/her cheek against the left-hand side of the stock, the rounds do not interfere with their cheek-weld. And when they need to re-load, the right hand comes off the trigger, plucks a round out of the cuff, and moves it up the the loading slot.

Seems correct to me.
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Too bad for you that you were born incorrect handed.
 

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