Scratch in savage 10 fcp-sr bore

If you intend to shoot rifles accurately and plan to work on them yourself, you simply need to buy this kit. Or own something similar.

https://smile.amazon.com/Wheeler-Sc...87&sr=8-2&keywords=wheeler+scope+mounting+kit

It includes an inch pound torque wrench and everything you need to true up and lap your rings.

Better makers will tell you that the rings don't need to be lapped. This is WRONG. I had a $230 LaRue mount that still needed to be lapped so it wasn't putting bending force on the scope.

In summry, the scope needs to be mounted in parallel rings that are torqued properly and preferably loctited to function at its highest level.

If you buy the kit above at the link I pasted here, Comm2A will get a few cents donation.

Don

It definitely could be human error. I dont shoot large caliber rifles often, i can clover a 12 gauge at 100 yards with a slug barrel though and diring dummy round drills i dont seem to have a flinch with this new rifle,

How do you know this?

Work with a friend to do a ball and dummy drill. I've found when instructing people that if they are having trouble with group sizes they often are flinching.

I will typically fake them out by taking a shot myself. Then I put the gun down and caution them that its loaded and ready to fire when in fact its empty. They take up position behind the gun squeeze the trigger and we get to see the push their shoulder into the stock.

A ball and dummy drill is useful for a couple of reasons.

1) it reveals a flinch or push
2) if you are really getting your head into it, it forces you to STOP a flinch or push you normally do and magically your groups improve.

To reveal a flinch, the ball/dummy is best done without the shooter knowing he's being screwed with.

To improve groups its best to tell the shooter what you are doing. Shooters who reveal a flinch when tricked suddenly become rock solid when they know the purpose of the drill.
 
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Or hang out at the 200 yard range at your club. When you see someone shooting itty bitty groups, ask him if he could take a few shots with your rifle and see what you find .

Go out and spend a few bucks on some Federal Gold Medal Match loaded up with 168 gr Sierra Match Kings and report back to us then. But before you launch the $2 apiece ammo down range, put 10 rounds or so of Herters through the barrel to foul it.

The bottom line is that if you are
1) relatiely inexperienced with precision shooting. If that's wrong, then I'm sorry I got that perception. I don't mean any disrespect. Do you own other guns that you are able to shoot sub moa?
2) using crappy ammo
3) using a scope of unknown quality.

Then 1.75 MOA is about right.

Don
Thanks for the reply,
Since my range only goes to 100 yards, ive been looking for another club that goes out further, I heard Granby bow gunclub has a range that goes to 1000 yards, im gonna check it out.

1) Your right, I have little experiance with precision shooting its my first rifle above a 5.56 that i own, But i own several rimfires that i can shoot sub moa, there was no disrespect perceived. I usually dont have any problems adapting to a new firearm pretty quickly so it def could be me.
2)Its def crap ammo, winchester soft point for deer, and boar.
3) The scope is actually a Nikon which i always thought was a good brand.

I ended up Buying 175 sierra matchking, lemme tell u wat
http://m.imgur.com/gallery/4wjG1
This thing can shoot lol
 
If you intend to shoot rifles accurately and plan to work on them yourself, you simply need to buy this kit. Or own something similar.

https://smile.amazon.com/Wheeler-Sc...87&sr=8-2&keywords=wheeler+scope+mounting+kit

It includes an inch pound torque wrench and everything you need to true up and lap your rings.

Better makers will tell you that the rings don't need to be lapped. This is WRONG. I had a $230 LaRue mount that still needed to be lapped so it wasn't putting bending force on the scope.

In summry, the scope needs to be mounted in parallel rings that are torqued properly and preferably loctited to function at its highest level.

If you buy the kit above at the link I pasted here, Comm2A will get a few cents donation.

Don



How do you know this?

Work with a friend to do a ball and dummy drill. I've found when instructing people that if they are having trouble with group sizes they often are flinching.

I will typically fake them out by taking a shot myself. Then I put the gun down and caution them that its loaded and ready to fire when in fact its empty. They take up position behind the gun squeeze the trigger and we get to see the push their shoulder into the stock.

A ball and dummy drill is useful for a couple of reasons.

1) it reveals a flinch or push
2) if you are really getting your head into it, it forces you to STOP a flinch or push you normally do and magically your groups improve.

To reveal a flinch, the ball/dummy is best done without the shooter knowing he's being screwed with.

To improve groups its best to tell the shooter what you are doing. Shooters who reveal a flinch when tricked suddenly become rock solid when they know the purpose of the drill.

Thanx fer the help, dummy drills are definitely an important thing alot of people dont try.

I used this drill to fix my flinch with pistols, I used a hammer type bullet puller to empty some bullets of various calibers, removed the primers with a puch and replaced those with pieces of leather. Then i put the bullet back in and DYED the whole thing RED to tell which ones are dummies. Im keep them in a special red box so i dont mix them up.
I take those dummies and a handful of bullets and mix them together and load my magazine with my eyes closed so i dont know where the dummies are in the magazine.
 
Vortex scope rings, and no torque wrech i just tighten by hand.

Well by you picture your on the right track.
I have vortex rings and mounts and the directions say 25inlbs so,it's easy to over tighten them.
Nikon scopes are good but they lower tier they offer can be hit or miss.
Once your settled in and you rifle is pretty predictable try doing the box/tracking test with your scope.
 
I would expect a $150 Nikon to hold Zero just fine. It might not do very well on a box test, but then again it might. But that's not the issue here.

I suspect the issue is mainly 3 things.

1) Bad ammo
2) relative inexperience shooting long distances.
3) lots of lying on the internet that gives the perception that any schmo can buy some wolf ammo, put it in a mil spec AR15 and shoot 1 moa.
 
Thanks for the reply,
Since my range only goes to 100 yards, ive been looking for another club that goes out further, I heard Granby bow gunclub has a range that goes to 1000 yards, im gonna check it out.

Just saw that you're in "Cape Ann" as am I obviously. I too wish we had a further range in town. To squeeze out as much distance as possible I bring my own steel plates and set them at the backstop which is 120 yards - better than nothing I suppose lol.

But anyway, I wish Granby wasn't such a hike as I'd like to check it out also. Another relatively close range is Harvard and they have a 300 yard range that you need to qualify at. I go there for IDPA/USPSA/Steel challenge matches as the north shore/Cape Ann doesn't have crap for competitive shooting lol.
 
I would expect a $150 Nikon to hold Zero just fine. It might not do very well on a box test, but then again it might. But that's not the issue here.

I suspect the issue is mainly 3 things.

1) Bad ammo
2) relative inexperience shooting long distances.
3) lots of lying on the internet that gives the perception that any schmo can buy some wolf ammo, put it in a mil spec AR15 and shoot 1 moa.

if you can hold sub 2" groups with any wolf stealcased ammo you indeed got a exceptional lot!
 
You hold sub MOA with a rimfire rifle at 100 yards?
Reading all of this, I am not convinced the problem is all hardware.


We shoot 5.56 at Granby out to 1,022 yards. A larger caliber doesn't make the gun nor shooter magically more accurate.
 
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