Sig P226 Locked-Up - Can't Field Strip *UPDATE: Barrel Blew Out!

[ScottS]

If you decide to just replace the barrel and call it a day, a quick search finds the OEM ones for about $145 eBay, or Midwest Gun Works, Brownells, even Sig.

P226 is a mighty robust gun. I might just replace the barrel (and maybe the recoil spring/guide rod) and move on.

 

[allen-1]

As others have said, that definitely looks like a round fired into a squibbed barrel.

Replace the barrel, triple-check your load data, maybe mic a half dozen or so of the bullets you're loading to verify the diameter??

 

[SJan]

I was using 147 grain lead flat point with 3.7 grains CFE Pistol, col 1.10. I've shot about 1000 rounds of this load with no issues.

What is your measured velocity with that load? What press do you use? My quick search shows that as the starting load (depending on bullet)

With CFE being somewhat of a slower powder, a slight undercharge would likely still cycle the action, and probably push a bullet partially down the barrel, far enough to chamber the next round.

 

[180 GRAIN FMJ]

If you decide to just replace the barrel and call it a day, a quick search finds the OEM ones for about $145 eBay, or Midwest Gun Works, Brownells, even Sig.

P226 is a mighty robust gun. I might just replace the barrel (and maybe the recoil spring/guide rod) and move on.

Yup, I ordered one from eBay. Thanks

 

[180 GRAIN FMJ]

As others have said, that definitely looks like a round fired into a squibbed barrel.

Replace the barrel, triple-check your load data, maybe mic a half dozen or so of the bullets you're loading to verify the diameter??

Coincidentally, that was the last round of 147 grain that I had. The other 998 worked just fine. I agree with the squib theory.

 

[180 GRAIN FMJ]

What is your measured velocity with that load? What press do you use? My quick search shows that as the starting load (depending on bullet)

With CFE being somewhat of a slower powder, a slight undercharge would likely still cycle the action, and probably push a bullet partially down the barrel, far enough to chamber the next round.

Hornady Lock n Load. I didn't measure the velocity. I started at the minimum and it cycled everything I used it in and was very accurate so I didn't need to adjust.

 

[jpm]

I use CFE with 124gr plated bullets and love it. My first charge weight was so accurate I didn't bother trying to tweak it either.

 

[180 GRAIN FMJ]

I use CFE with 124gr plated bullets and love it. My first charge weight was so accurate I didn't bother trying to tweak it either.

Yup, I use 5.2 with the plated 124 grain. Perfect load.

 

[jpm]

Yup, I use 5.2 with the plated 124 grain. Perfect load.

Yeah I think I'm using 5.0

 

[Buck F]

A vice, a towel, lots of lube and a rubber mallet.

I'll bet you say that to all the boys...

 

[cams]

I'll bet you say that to all the boys...

You my friend are a sick man. I like that in a person. lol

 

[clsx]

I just received a West German P226 with a bulged barrel. @180 GRAIN FMJ - did you just lube the outside of the barrel and beat the slide backwards until the barrel aperture cleared the bulge? I have access to a vice with soft jaws and plenty of tools, just wary of forcing the slide back over something that's too big to fit.

 

[180 GRAIN FMJ]

I just received a West German P226 with a bulged barrel. @180 GRAIN FMJ - did you just lube the outside of the barrel and beat the slide backwards until the barrel aperture cleared the bulge? I have access to a vice with soft jaws and plenty of tools, just wary of forcing the slide back over something that's too big to fit.

That is exactly what I did. It took a long time but eventually it gave way. Just be patient and use plenty of Break-Free and a dead-blow hammer.

 

[MaduroBU]

Bar-Sto makes awesome barrels if you want to use this as an opportunity to put a threaded barrel on yours.

 

[clsx]

Had to drill it out. @MaduroBU, is that a Docter RDS on your slide? I like the look. Since this is now officially a project/frankengun, I may run a Bar-Sto match grade barrel and RDS on this once it's all back together. My only 9mm can lives on my MP5 and is 1.5" OD, a little hefty for handguns. On the other hand, a compensator might be nice.

 

[MaduroBU]

Yes, but make sure you get the new one and the correct model if you go that route. Noblex makes Docter, and only some of them are rated for the back and forth hammering of life on a short recoil pistol slide (ask me how I learned that). It looks like you have a milled slide, which for a regular P226 means that you can just have the slide milled to accept it. Mine is an X-5, so it has an internal extractor like a 1911 which doesn't leave enough material to mill the slide for an RDS.

If you're going to have to tear it completely down to get all of the metal shavings out, another thought is that you could get Gray guns involved. They're the best at Sigs, and did most of the custom work on the internals of my gun (though any competent smith can work on a 226, and the only real reason to send it to Gray is that they can put a nickel/ceramic coating on the internals that prevents corrosion and makes cleaning easier at the same time).

Anyway, nice work on saving the gun, and please keep us posted as to where the project leads you!