Testing frog lube.. out of the solvent. Hoppes elite work?

jho

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Lots of frog lube haters and fans out there so I decided to test it out myself.

I've shot several hundreds of rounds without any issues but I hate that it tells me I can't use petroleum based products to clean as I have tons of the conventional stuff sitting around.

The froglube clp doesn't run so I'm weary of using it as a cleaner.

So while doing all the hassle of cleaning all of the old products off the guns a while back, I ran the solvent in the sampler pack really low. Now I'm up for a cleaning, and don't have enough to stick to froglube products.

I noticed that my Hoppes elite solvent smells very similar, like soap and water. Or something of the sort...I can't put my finger on what it is.

Does anyone know if I can use Hoppes elite solvent or anything else as a pre frog lube?

I'm just testing froglube and don't want to run out to buy solvent in case I decide to drop frog lube altogether.

So far I have no issues with the products except for the stupid heating method which I only did for first application. I don't run my guns hard enough in adverse environments to really test lubricants so they would have to really suck for me to notice. The only up-side is that it doesn't leave a chemically smell in the house like remoil did (not that I mind). It also doesn't screw up my coffee table like throttle body cleaner did.

Update: they both smell like the aqueous brake drum washer cart back in auto tech class in high school! Maybe simple green will work
 
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I ran into similar issue. Its one of the many reasons i stopped playing w froglube.

i like to clean any firearm thoroughly, and the froglube cleaner product sucked...anyway if i started lamenting about froglube i would be here all morning.
 
I ran into similar issue. Its one of the many reasons i stopped playing w froglube.

i like to clean any firearm thoroughly, and the froglube cleaner product sucked...anyway if i started lamenting about froglube i would be here all morning.

They claim that if your firearm is "seasoned" carbon will just wipe off. The only issue is that lower viscosity fluids can reach spots a rag can't and froglube is toothpaste like. There is no substitute for that. No complaints about it as a lubricant yet. It smells awesome and I've eaten it to test its flavor.


You can edit the title.
Sorry I was using tapatalk.
 
I believe the Hoppes Elite is made by folks that make MPro7.

MPro7 is effective on my experience. The Froglube cleaner worked poorly in my experience.
 
Does anyone know if I can use Hoppes elite solvent or anything else as a pre frog lube?

I'm just testing froglube and don't want to run out to buy solvent in case I decide to drop frog lube altogether.

I'd say use whatever you want for a solvent. And don't worry about the silly heating method either. see my reasoning below.

FL_MSDS.jpg


This was from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3eQUGm0_Kk @ minute 6:30.
There is no useful information on the material safety data sheet on the current Froglube site.
This guy (realguysreviews) found this 10 year old MSDS.
Polyalpha-olefin PAO is a component of Froglube. Apparently Break Free CLP is PAO as well.
PAO is compatible with conventional oils.
So I just put it on like any other lube and it mixes with whatever I used to clean with (Balistol, Gunzilla, Hoppes, whatever). I don't buy into Froglube's marketing that it is incompatible with everything.
I bought a sampler of FL last year and use it mainly on my .22's. It does clean up fairly easily.
I'd buy it again if it were 1/4 the price I paid for it. There are cheaper alternatives like Mobil1 synthetic grease and motor oil.
 
I'd say use whatever you want for a solvent. And don't worry about the silly heating method either. see my reasoning below.

View attachment 125998


This was from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3eQUGm0_Kk @ minute 6:30.
There is no useful information on the material safety data sheet on the current Froglube site.
This guy (realguysreviews) found this 10 year old MSDS.
Polyalpha-olefin PAO is a component of Froglube. Apparently Break Free CLP is PAO as well.
PAO is compatible with conventional oils.
So I just put it on like any other lube and it mixes with whatever I used to clean with (Balistol, Gunzilla, Hoppes, whatever). I don't buy into Froglube's marketing that it is incompatible with everything.
I bought a sampler of FL last year and use it mainly on my .22's. It does clean up fairly easily.
I'd buy it again if it were 1/4 the price I paid for it. There are cheaper alternatives like Mobil1 synthetic grease and motor oil.

Thanks! I will watch the video,

I bought the sampler pack which comes in the clp paste and tube. It seems like more than enough to last me a long while. The solvent is what I run through and don't want to keep buying it.

I read up on what the solvent is in aqueous parts cleaner solution since it smelled similar and wanted to know if that stuff will work on my guns. I couldn't get a definitive answer on what it is and if it is safe to use. It seems like simple green and zep might be similar but some car detailing guys say that simple green needs to be washed off quickly otherwise it can etch aluminum.

As you can see my approach is as far from scientific as can be. Do you have any input on this? The mass sheet is confusing as all hell to me. I would love to be able to use zep or simple green as gun solvents are sold in tiny bottles for huge money.


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I clean my guns with cheap solvents (brake parts cleaner or carb cleaner) and then lube with synthetic motor oil. Very effective and cheap. I do use expensive cleaners on the bore where I really need them.
 
I clean my guns with cheap solvents (brake parts cleaner or carb cleaner) and then lube with synthetic motor oil. Very effective and cheap. I do use expensive cleaners on the bore where I really need them.

Thanks, I do understand that method works perfectly fine as I was doing the exact same thing. The only reason I wanted to stick to less smelly substances is because I live in an apartment and clean my guns in the kitchen or livingroom. While I find brake cleaner or carb cleaner nostalgic of my wrench turning days, it is not for everyone.

I'm just testing out alternatives. I may very well end up back on the stinky route if this new way proves to be gimmicky.


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I read up on what the solvent is in aqueous parts cleaner solution since it smelled similar and wanted to know if that stuff will work on my guns. I couldn't get a definitive answer on what it is and if it is safe to use. It seems like simple green and zep might be similar but some car detailing guys say that simple green needs to be washed off quickly otherwise it can etch aluminum.

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I never tried it but the airplane folks had to deal with this problem.
Simple green makes an aluminum friendly version.
http://www.amazon.com/Simple-Green-13406-Aircraft-Precision/dp/B001VXU7OE
 
I use FL, and have used it for a couple of years now. I like it in my SS semi autos particularly. However, I bought in "significant quantity" at the time, and have not replenished (or more accurately, needed to), so if there has been a "reformulation" since that time, I have not been affected. That said I have not experienced the "stickiness" issue quite frankly, and that said, my firearms are stored in a warm and dry environment relatively speaking. And as far as use goes, I am a "sparingly" sort in any case. Though, I am out in the cold weather with firearms quite often in-the-winter, and it DOES affect the performance before a few rounds go down range IMO. Not "sticky" mind you, but more fricative. Certainly not enough of an issue to negate the plusses for me personally.

PS - As mentioned in the previous posts, I bet this stuff would do the trick.
[h=1]Simple Green 13406 Extreme Aircraft and Precision Cleaner, 1 Gallon Bottle[/h]
 
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I use FL, and have used it for a couple of years now. I like it in my SS semi autos particularly. However, I bought in "significant quantity" at the time, and have not replenished (or more accurately, needed to), so if there has been a "reformulation" since that time, I have not been affected. That said I have not experienced the "stickiness" issue quite frankly, and that said, my firearms are stored in a warm and dry environment relatively speaking. And as far as use goes, I am a "sparingly" sort in any case. Though, I am out in the cold weather with firearms quite often in-the-winter, and it DOES affect the performance before a few rounds go down range IMO. Not "sticky" mind you, but more fricative. Certainly not enough of an issue to negate the plusses for me personally.

PS - As mentioned in the previous posts, I bet this stuff would do the trick.
[h=1]Simple Green 13406 Extreme Aircraft and Precision Cleaner, 1 Gallon Bottle[/h]

I agree with you. I have froglube on several firearms and it works great. Like you mentioned, takes a few rounds to heat up if cold. Was at range last week with temp of about 25 degrees and it worked just fine in the rifle. I'm also a fan of Mil Comm lubes and cleaners. Their MC25 cleaner is hands down the best I have used.

Regarding Simple Green, I have used the regular formulation straight out of the bottle (no diluting) as a degreaser on my firearms and it has worked very well.
 
astroglide [smile]

Don't need to be questioned about if I'm actually going to the range until 2am on Saturdays. Lol that being in the bag won't help.


I use FL, and have used it for a couple of years now. I like it in my SS semi autos particularly. However, I bought in "significant quantity" at the time, and have not replenished (or more accurately, needed to), so if there has been a "reformulation" since that time, I have not been affected. That said I have not experienced the "stickiness" issue quite frankly, and that said, my firearms are stored in a warm and dry environment relatively speaking. And as far as use goes, I am a "sparingly" sort in any case. Though, I am out in the cold weather with firearms quite often in-the-winter, and it DOES affect the performance before a few rounds go down range IMO. Not "sticky" mind you, but more fricative. Certainly not enough of an issue to negate the plusses for me personally.

PS - As mentioned in the previous posts, I bet this stuff would do the trick.
[h=1]Simple Green 13406 Extreme Aircraft and Precision Cleaner, 1 Gallon Bottle[/h]

I shoot mainly indoors so I'll never get to experience this. From what I hear, you will only run into a problem if you don't wipe it all off after application. It apparently works best wiped dry. I am not a chemist, metallurgist or anything of the sort. Just an easily swayed consumer. I will probably buy the simple green.

I agree with you. I have froglube on several firearms and it works great. Like you mentioned, takes a few rounds to heat up if cold. Was at range last week with temp of about 25 degrees and it worked just fine in the rifle. I'm also a fan of Mil Comm lubes and cleaners. Their MC25 cleaner is hands down the best I have used.

Regarding Simple Green, I have used the regular formulation straight out of the bottle (no diluting) as a degreaser on my firearms and it has worked very well.

Did you have to use water to wash it off afterwards? The good thing about the solvents such as frog lube and hoppes elite is that they dry off pretty quickly.

I don't know how often we should be degreasing. I think I heard this takes the frog lube out of the pores in the metal. I still like to do it for peace of mind.





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Don't need to be questioned about if I'm actually going to the range until 2am on Saturdays. Lol that being in the bag won't help.




I shoot mainly indoors so I'll never get to experience this. From what I hear, you will only run into a problem if you don't wipe it all off after application. It apparently works best wiped dry. I am not a chemist, metallurgist or anything of the sort. Just an easily swayed consumer. I will probably buy the simple green.



Did you have to use water to wash it off afterwards? The good thing about the solvents such as frog lube and hoppes elite is that they dry off pretty quickly.

I don't know how often we should be degreasing. I think I heard this takes the frog lube out of the pores in the metal. I still like to do it for peace of mind.





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Thre degreasing is before the initial application of froglube. Probably not totally necessary. Plus I like to just get all the gunk off my firearms occasionally and give them a good cleaning. The mil comm stuff I referenced, which is their cleaner, essentially strips down to bare metal each time anyway. It's not a CLP. The lube they make is called TW25B.
 
Thre degreasing is before the initial application of froglube. Probably not totally necessary. Plus I like to just get all the gunk off my firearms occasionally and give them a good cleaning. The mil comm stuff I referenced, which is their cleaner, essentially strips down to bare metal each time anyway. It's not a CLP. The lube they make is called TW25B.

The only concern is that with water based cleaners, they might not evaporate in the trigger group like brake clean would. While simple green might clean well when doing a full tear down, I don't know whether I should use as an every day cleaner.


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The only concern is that with water based cleaners, they might not evaporate in the trigger group like brake clean would. While simple green might clean well when doing a full tear down, I don't know whether I should use as an every day cleaner.


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This is true. I should have added that I do use a can of compressed air to get it out of tight places like trigger group.
 
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