Trafficdiver
NES Member
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- Aug 14, 2014
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Why would I want to do any of that? I have a heavy duty barrel that shoots straight enough. It's made in Hungary.
Yes, they are accurate enough.
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The AR15
- Thread starter peterk123
- Start date
Golddiggie
NES Member
Optics are also for people with old eyes that need help. My days of iron site rifles are behind me. Pistols are one thing, but rifles, for any halfway decent range is a no go. I want to actually SEE where my rounds are going. Not guess. Or need to setup a spotting scope for the same effect. Less gear to take to the range. I'm also getting into prism optics due to my eyes. No starburst effect that I get from a red dot type.
Golddiggie
NES Member
Prism optic I put onto one of my AR pistol uppers is marked for close range shooting. Down to 5 yards. So, good for home defense.
Of course, I have my 300Blk upper on the pistol lower at this point. Only two 20 round PMags with DRT ammo (110 grain Barnes vortex) loaded up. Easier to move around in close quarters with the 20 round mags. Plus, that's one box in each. 
Got ear pro right there too. Should put plugs along with the muffs due to the muzzle device on that upper (you FEEL it).The price of gucci brands is mostly for the name, appearance or some little features with no effect on function. Manufacturers like BCM are probably the best value for assembled rifles.
I have LMT & Radian but the AR used most is probably the parts build sbr on an Aero lower.
I have LMT & Radian but the AR used most is probably the parts build sbr on an Aero lower.
When I first started out, I wanted to avoid AR's.
Then I got a super cheap upper from a forum member and that was the end of it for me.
1 80% that I almost fubar'ed (1st time).
After that, I bought lowers from pretty much 1 company only(not counting my .308 and 1 other brand)
Bought the real avid master kit 1 and been building them ever since.
Only Gucci brand id buy pre assembled is probably HK,PWS or POF. I fancy piston systems.
Then I got a super cheap upper from a forum member and that was the end of it for me.
1 80% that I almost fubar'ed (1st time).
After that, I bought lowers from pretty much 1 company only(not counting my .308 and 1 other brand)
Bought the real avid master kit 1 and been building them ever since.
Only Gucci brand id buy pre assembled is probably HK,PWS or POF. I fancy piston systems.
Golddiggie
NES Member
PWS upper goes fine with any milspec lower. Got one assembled here.
Why doesn't a 300blk pistol upper have a CAN on it? like a honda civic without a fart can. doesn't make sense.Prism optic I put onto one of my AR pistol uppers is marked for close range shooting. Down to 5 yards. So, good for home defense.
Golddiggie
NES Member
$$$$
Don't have the budget, currently, to get any cans. Hoping that changes real soon.
Alex9661
NES Member
I bet more people have been killed with rocks and sharp sticks. Just saying...There's been millions put in a grave by non optic fitted AKs over the past 70 years.....which is the true reason for owning one in the long run.
cockpitbob
NES Member
OK, let's talk Takedown Pins.
On my 2 builds they are pretty stiff. Sometimes I need to use a lot of force with something like a plastic pen. It's more than just the pin's detents. I'm such a newb, I don't know if this is normal for cheap build, or if Guccis are the same way.
On my 2 builds they are pretty stiff. Sometimes I need to use a lot of force with something like a plastic pen. It's more than just the pin's detents. I'm such a newb, I don't know if this is normal for cheap build, or if Guccis are the same way.
It's not all that crazy or big a deal, pound them through enough and it will get easier after awhile.
I've had cheap builds and also a Radian that I had to use a metal pin and Hammer to push them out.
Golddiggie
NES Member
@cockpitbob Have you put any lube on them? A little dab will do ya. IME, some pins are just a hair on the large side, and the holes can be just a hair on the small side. Making things tighter than they otherwise would be. The sizes are +/- a certain amount (don't have it in front of me). Wearing them in, or using lube, usually helps.
The rear takedown pin is also a reason to NOT use an accu-wedge. It will make pushing the pin out a good deal more difficult. Better to do a set screw instead.
The rear takedown pin is also a reason to NOT use an accu-wedge. It will make pushing the pin out a good deal more difficult. Better to do a set screw instead.
I kind of make fun of those with Gucci-tier AR's.
Then I think of my #1 rifle: it's got a $540 gain-twist Bartlien barrel, a $240 Geisselle NM trigger, a $250 Spiker handguard, and a $190 Magpul Gen 2 stock.
But I poor-pride myself on knowing all those high-dollar parts are screwed onto a $50 RR "blemished" A4 upper receiver, and an old Stag lower I've had for a looong time.
Then I think of my #1 rifle: it's got a $540 gain-twist Bartlien barrel, a $240 Geisselle NM trigger, a $250 Spiker handguard, and a $190 Magpul Gen 2 stock.
But I poor-pride myself on knowing all those high-dollar parts are screwed onto a $50 RR "blemished" A4 upper receiver, and an old Stag lower I've had for a looong time.
cockpitbob
NES Member
I'm not on the ssme level as Reptile and his 55 gallon drum of lube, but yes, the pins are well lubed. I hate rust with a passion and keep things well lubed.
cockpitbob
NES Member
Speaking of stiff parts, I had a safety stiff enough to remove the skin from my thumb. My fix was to take it apart, apply a little Flitz metal polish paste, reassemble and cycle a few dozen times. Then disassemble, clean, refresh the Flitz and do it again. After 3 cycles the safety is silky smooth and the detents have the just the right amount of hold.
Cap'n Mike
NES Member
It can be tolerance stacking.
At one point I had 2 LMT uppers and 2 LMT lowers, all bought separately.
One of the lowers would not close the pins on one of the uppers, it was that tight.
I simply kept the receivers together that fit.
You can loosen up the pin fit by wrapping a peice of sandpaper around a pencil or something similar and clearencing the holes on the upper a little bit at a time until the pins go in easy.
Bias your sanding to the bottom of the rear pin hole first.
btnh6668
NES Member
Good sling makes that a non factor.
Well, that's a good fix, but did you measure the holes in the receiver and the shaft of the safety to see which part (or both) were out of spec?
Did you grease the detent when assembling it (if you put it together) initially?
cockpitbob
NES Member
Didn't measure things, but they didn't fit tight, and everything was coated in oil or Tetra grease. The surface of the shaft wasn't the smoothest, so that may have been it.
it`s a bit of pita to take them out as you inserted them, but usually you can work the pockets as explained or shorten the spring a bit if you feel that it was simply too long.
right now put a bit of oil and run the pin back and forth to work it better into the slot.
but it is ok anyway, as when you adjust the lower to push upper a bit up so it would sit with no wobble, pins usually get pretty tight to move as well, so it is all normal.
Barrel, bolt, and trigger are the critical components. They are the naked Barbie and everything thing else is Barbie dress up accessories so long as they are within specification. Mix and match as you wish. Totally doable to build a sub-MOA AR with an inexpensive upper and lower combo so long as you have a top end barrel and matched (headspaced) bolt.
What's your intended purpose for your build?
peterk123
NES Member
Probably another coyote gun. I haven't gotten into the mag dump type shooting. Although I can't see why I couldn't do that with this.
If I do it I would likely fit it with an 18 inch barrel. My current one is 20. Bipod up front and an arca rail close to the balance point for a tripod. Decent scope with exposed turret for elevation. I'm still going back and forth regarding a suppressor. Likely a dedicated 223 can.
Soundwave
NES Member
I don't believe any of my builds have been headspaced. Is it that critical?
