Threaded barrel

soloman02

soloman02

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How difficult would it be for a gunsmith to thread the barrel of a 10/22? I am looking at getting a suppressed 22 setup.
 
Something like that would be machine shop 101.

The ease in which a 10/22 barrel is removed/installed simplifies things.

I'm guessing the job would be in $40.00 - $50.00 range.
 
LoginName said:
Something like that would be machine shop 101.

The ease in which a 10/22 barrel is removed/installed simplifies things.

I'm guessing the job would be in $40.00 - $50.00 range.
Click to expand...

and buying an aftermarket barrel already threaded can be had without breaking the bank too
 
LoginName said:
Something like that would be machine shop 101.

The ease in which a 10/22 barrel is removed/installed simplifies things.

I'm guessing the job would be in $40.00 - $50.00 range.
Click to expand...

I know there's a guy on the Saiga-12 forums who will send you a kit that you can use to cut external threads on your own gun for like $30 (you send him back the kit). It couldn't cost much more than that to have someone else do it and it should be something that any machine shop could handle.
 
Its a classic. I love the part about how to check a weapon and make sure it is safe. Anyway back to the question it is pretty easy to have a smith thread the end of the barrel.
 
We at Remsport will be able to turn and thread your barrel our basic price for this if we do not have to drill pin and weld a muzzle device is $95.oo we can do this while you wait.
We are located in Ludlow MA. just 2.5 miles from exit 6 on the MA. Turnpike. You could also send us your barrel with the threading specs ane we could do the job and ship your barrel back to you.
contact us.
Thanks
john
413 579 1994
 
Rob Boudrie said:
The $30 sounds like a rental price, not a sale price.
Click to expand...

I would be interested in how this works. External shotgun chokes are a little different than brakes and suppressors. Rental or not I see no way to thread the end of a barrel and have it indexed and concentric with the bore using hand tools. I am sure it could be done with more brain power than I can muster I just can't see it.
 
Anyone can do it just go back to the gunsmith video no skill required. Maybe no special tools would be needed just a hack saw. hammer and some files. If it dosen't work out the first time you can always get another barrel.
 
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oneswithfunes said:
I would be interested in how this works. External shotgun chokes are a little different than brakes and suppressors. Rental or not I see no way to thread the end of a barrel and have it indexed and concentric with the bore using hand tools. I am sure it could be done with more brain power than I can muster I just can't see it.
Click to expand...

Several years of Machine Shop and I know this isn't as trivial as several have made it out to be.

Barrel end must be turned down to the proper OC for the threading tool. Concentricity and axial alignment must be maintained to extremely tight tolerances. 1/60 of a degree out of axial alignment and your throwing bullets a half inch off at 50 yards. I'm not sure what the bore diameter for the suppressor is, but concentricity has to be within a few thousands of an inch at most.

Indexing might not be much of an issue with a suppressor, since their rotational position isn't as critical as a compensator or flash suppressor, but if you want it to work for the later as well, you have to correctly index the start of the threads. You also need to make sure you maintain axial alignment when you cut the threads.

Also, what the fit class of threading for a suppressor? I've never checked, but I suspect it's a Class 1 thread to maintain the precision alignment between the suppressor and the barrel.

I wouldn't take this to your local machine shop unless you make sure they understand the precision required. A gun smith who's doing this specifically for firearms will know the precision required so you'll end up with a better product when you're done.
Pre-threading would seem like a very good option, especially if they're cutting the threads at the same time as the rest of the barrel. It's a lot easier to maintain that level of precision if you never remove the work-piece from the tool.
 
Remsport Mfg said:
Anyone can do it just go back to the gunsmith video no skill required. Maybe no special tools would be needed just a hack saw. hammer and some files. If it dosen't work out the first time you can always get another barrel.
Click to expand...

Almost as easy as cutting id metric threads:)
 
Can't you just use your teeth to gnaw in a few grooves???

jaws.jpg
 
The only way to get it right would be to have the lathe center in the bore and not assume that the bore is concentric with the O.D. I think that my .22 suppressor (Ruger MK2 integrally suppressed pistol) has .250 dia. holes thru the baffles. There are 11 baffles .25 thick and then the end cap. Most of the suppression takes place in the 10" ported barrel. I have rebuilt the unit several times and have see no evidence of baffle strikes. To add a muzzle can, tolerences become more critical due to the longer bullet travel thru the can. Also, the can must be kept rock solid onto the barrel. Get it done right! Jack.
 
Jack,

That's my point.

If you cut the OD on the barrel even a few thousands off-center, you're likely to end up with baffle strikes because the bore of the suppressor has to be within a few thousands of the bullet diameter. A standard 3-jaw chuck doesn't generally provide that level of concentricity if the workpiece is removed and reinserted.

Add to that, any shift in the axial alignment of the threading to the center line of the bore and your point of impact shifts dramatically. A 1 minute angular error is only 5 thousands of an inch over a 20" barrel or 1 thousandth of an inch over the 4" grip length of a chuck. And axial alignment must be maintaned and concentricity must be maintained with respect to the BORE, not with respect to the barrel diameter.

Yes, a skilled machinist can maintain these tolerances, but they are far from typical tolerances so you'll need to make sure he knows what tolerances are critical. The gunsmith has the specific tools and already understands the precision tolerances so you don't have to.

Ramsport - does the $95 include a thread protector or is that just threading? If it's just threading, what do you charge for a Stainless Steel diamond knurled thread protector?
 
ShadeWPI said:
Jack,

That's my point.

If you cut the OD on the barrel even a few thousands off-center, you're likely to end up with baffle strikes because the bore of the suppressor has to be within a few thousands of the bullet diameter. A standard 3-jaw chuck doesn't generally provide that level of concentricity if the workpiece is removed and reinserted.

Add to that, any shift in the axial alignment of the threading to the center line of the bore and your point of impact shifts dramatically. A 1 minute angular error is only 5 thousands of an inch over a 20" barrel or 1 thousandth of an inch over the 4" grip length of a chuck. And axial alignment must be maintaned and concentricity must be maintained with respect to the BORE, not with respect to the barrel diameter.

Yes, a skilled machinist can maintain these tolerances, but they are far from typical tolerances so you'll need to make sure he knows what tolerances are critical. The gunsmith has the specific tools and already understands the precision tolerances so you don't have to.

Ramsport - does the $95 include a thread protector or is that just threading? If it's just threading, what do you charge for a Stainless Steel diamond knurled thread protector?
Click to expand...

Pretty hard to indicate the bore on a 3 jaw.
 
Please explain how you indicate the bore in a 3 jaw? Even with a live center I don't see it.

Edit to add: Are you turning a 60 degree point on a piece of stock in the 3 jaw and turning between centers? A 4 jaw or 6 jaw set true is much better imo. To much length for me. The 3 jaw is bad juju for barrel work.
 
Last edited:
oneswithfunes said:
Please explain how you indicate the bore in a 3 jaw? Even with a live center I don't see it.

Edit to add: Are you turning a 60 degree point on a piece of stock in the 3 jaw and turning between centers? A 4 jaw or 6 jaw set true is much better imo. To much length for me. The 3 jaw is bad juju for barrel work.
Click to expand...
Since it's a 10/22 bbl, the breach end can be held in a 4 jaw and the muzzle end supported by the live center in the bore. Jack.
 
I don't know what lathes clunkers you guys have worked with but my 5 year old import $450 harbor freight holds .001 runout on the cheasy 3 jaw chuck which should more than suffice for threading a barrel for a comp or suppressor. Also I would *think* a live center would be a bad idea as it could easily damage the crown. Also how would you even indicate the barrel in by the bore?? an indicator would hit the rifling?

Mac
 
Three jaw will work just fine and a live pilot is needed. This will not damage the crown, however the barrel should be recrowned after this type of work anyway. As to the thread cutting if you use a pilot die designed to thread barrels it dosen't make a diffrence if the barrel turn is slightly off. The pilot on the die will center the thead cutting so when the thread is cut the whole end is centered. Indexing can be done during threading or if the muzzle device is designed to adjust indexing or can use a crush washer for indexing or dosen't need to be indexed. I can do this work for you.
I do this type of work all the time.
 

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