Thumb break or no for 1911? I'm curious as to who does what.

[Jose]

Kydex will wear out and loosen up eventually.

Absolutely not.

It can also break apart if you roll over on the holster, unlike a pancake with a snap.

Maybe, maybe not.

 

[M1911]

Not particular to 1911's, but straps can get lodged inside trigger guards while reholstering if you're not paying enough attention. Something to consider in your decision making.

They can indeed.

Kydex will wear out and loosen up eventually.

I've never had any wear out or loosen up. Some Kydex holsters allow you to adjust the tension.

It can also break apart if you roll over on the holster, unlike a pancake with a snap.

I've had one kydex holster break its belt loop.

 

[JRyan]

I had one paddle style kydex separate on me, but I have no idea what was done to it before I got it. I was just jamming it in to my belt, not doing anything particularly rough or anything.

I think they are strong, but I prefer leather.

 

[Jose]

I had one paddle style kydex separate on me, but I have no idea what was done to it before I got it. I was just jamming it in to my belt, not doing anything particularly rough or anything.

I think they are strong, but I prefer leather.

I kinda agree with you. I have both leather and kydex IWB holsters. But for anything that attaches to the outside of my belt, I trust NOTHING but stitched leather.

Even the ultra popular Raven Concealment holsters and their clones depend on plastic slots screwed onto the holster with chicago screws. It may be strong, but nowhere near strong as this:

 

[TheRoland]

Thanks.

Note that his physics is all wrong. The machining stuff is great, though.

Kydex for me. No retention devices.

 

[JRyan]

Note that his physics is all wrong. The machining stuff is great, though.

Kydex for me. No retention devices.

I'm interested in any other recommendations, historical or mechanical.

 

[JRyan]

I kinda agree with you. I have both leather and kydex IWB holsters. But for anything that attaches to the outside of my belt, I trust NOTHING but stitched leather.

Even the ultra popular Raven Concealment holsters and their clones depend on plastic slots screwed onto the holster with chicago screws. It may be strong, but nowhere near strong as this:

that's what I like about the defender I ordered, IWB it has the hooks, OWB it is as you posted, slots in heavy stitched leather.

 

[abomb60]

Hammer down on a live round in a 1911 is bad juju.. Just as bad as hammer down on a single action with a hammer firing pin.
If the person does not feel comfortable with hammer back- safety on- carry, then they probably want to consider a different type of pistol.

+1 .... 1911 was never designed to have the hammer down on a live round. I know some in WW2 and until the 1911 was replaced would half-cock with a round in the chamber but this was a fix for lefties who couldn't use the thumb-safety. In most modern 1911's this is a non-issue with the ambi-thumb safeties. If you don't feel safe with a 1911 cocked and locked then carry a revolver or a DA/SA handgun. Just remember that they aren't necessarily "safer" designs.

 

[abomb60]

being that I might be kicking and punching, I really want to know my gun is not going to be somewhere else when I need it.

That's just me.

If you're getting that physical then you might want to consider a beefier holster. Not trying to be a dick here but if you're going hands on with a guy and kicking/punching then suddenly decide it's time for a firearm you might want to consider your choice to carry at all ... or at least get something with better retention than a simple thumb break.

For the OP: I usually carry my 1911 in a IWB Comp-Tac. Works well for what I need but I also sometimes prefer a Desantis OWB pancake holster. Both work well and neither has a thumb break but if i'm not wearing a jacket the Comp-Tac works better. Also i've never been a contestant on Ninja Warrier so I don't know how these holsters would do if I was jumping/kicking/climbing or performing various Ninja moves. I do however sometimes carry another handgun in a level 3 retention holster which does have a thumb break. I don't have a problem with the thumb break on that but if you don't need the extra retension i'd say skip it. YMMV.

 

[GSG]

I imagine anything will eventually wear out, even the heavy leather ones I prefer.

I agree with you. My (poorly articulated) point was that passive retention features are different than active retention features. Detent will retain your gun in many circumstances, but it will eventually wear down with regular use and practice. Also, it's status isn't as easy to verify as a holster that's snapped shut. I'm not knocking kydex, I love my Crossbreed Supertucks, but it does have it's limits.

 

[jar]

being that I might be kicking and punching, I really want to know my gun is not going to be somewhere else when I need it.

That's just me.

IMHO you shouldn't have any live weapons on you while training.

 

[RollingThunder-1911]

A lot will depend on what you're carrying and where you're going. If it's a full frame 1911, IWB is a tight fit. I have a S&W 1991 Sub Compact 3" barrel and I use the Crossbreed Holster Super Tuck Deluxe IBW, no thumb break but very comfortable.

For carrying my full frame 1911's the shoulder system I use is the Galco X-Project and for OWB I use the Blackhawk Leather Pancake Holster. I have them both with and without thumb breaks.
Clear as mud I know.

 

[45collector]

The only holster I have w/ a thumb break is an old Galco leather IWB for the PPK/S that only gets used in the summer, and rarely at that. Its for when I'm kayaking. This way even if I fall out, tumble around, get upended or whatever it isn't going anywhere. I've yet to have to draw my pistol on any Great Blue Herons or Sea Turtles, but you never know.

 

[wolf223]

full size 1911 + Don Hume P.C.C.H holster... no thumb break