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Not feeling like im trying to clean up mushy vomit when I pull it?It is an EDC with a somewhat plebian FCU layout. What kind of improvement you seek in an EDC trigger? It is supposed to have noticeable travel, well defined wall and long-ish reset... We shoot stock FCU's at the EDC matches and they are adequate to the point where folks are not much slower than shooting their "real" CO and LO guns except on stages where mag capacity matters. So what more do you require?
Just a cleaner/smoother feel and not so much wall before the break. Maybe a lighter pull overall.It is an EDC with a somewhat plebian FCU layout. What kind of improvement you seek in an EDC trigger? It is supposed to have noticeable travel, well defined wall and long-ish reset... We shoot stock FCU's at the EDC matches and they are adequate to the point where folks are not much slower than shooting their "real" CO and LO guns except on stages where mag capacity matters. So what more do you require?
Not feeling like im trying to clean up mushy vomit when I pull it?
Op macarbo and a spring kit will make it palatable.
But if you dont like the 320/365 triggers there is nothing you can do to fix them.
Micro compacts are coming in droves wait til u find one you like and switch
Could you please post a picture, it would help to visualize what you explained above.I think I did a writeup on this somewhere here, probably a few years ago though.
The big problem I've had with the 365 triggers (and with many other guns) is basically excessive sear engagement, aggravated by not very smooth engagement surfaces. It just creeps along way too long before the break, bumping and grinding the whole way. I've played with a bunch of different 365 models, while they're all a bit different/better/worse they're still universally shitt-eh triggers, even with the 'fancy' models. By my standards anyway...
Easy enough improvement to just polish up surfaces but still way too much travel... this fortunately also has a relatively easy remedy. It's just a little lathe turned tube/sleeve that slides over the pin in the fcu which functions to alter the sear height/position relative to the striker. No permanent modification to the stock parts at all, just some disassembly/finagling/reassembly. A side effect is also much reduced pull weight, I typically end up at 3 - 3 1/2lbs.
Striker still has that weird "twoink" on the break though, lol.
With minimized engagement the problem of the rough surfaces is also minimized and may not even necessitate polishing. A downside is it's not really 'adjustable' and some trial and error is necessary to get just the right amount of engagement for desired feel and solid function. I usually attempt to make a sear to be screw adjustable but many/most designs don't make it easy or reasonably possible. I'll tune sears until failure and then back off some but when grinding on a sear (as opposed to turning an adjustment screw) this unfortunately means you need more than one. Then some manufacturers won't sell you one and have no aftermarket options, gets tricky/nerve wracking. In this case a few various size tubes can be swapped out to get the best result, just a pain to keep taking apart and putting together multiple times. And again, 100% reversible.
Some time later I found that there's someone (company name is escaping me) selling a product with the same function but uses a spring as the tube/sleeve, so the wire diameter is the factor controlling the amount of sear engagement. Sold as a few springs in different sizes, pricey from what I remember considering it's probably a ten cent spring, lol.
Smart idea, easy/cheap to produce and even to 'roll your own'. Though for me the solid sleeve allows me to tweek the dimensions on a finer level and without having to find a bunch of different wire sizes in .001” increments...
From memory I think the tube dimensions were .125" od x .096 id x .2" lg as a good starting point, .136" od being near the "hairy edge".
The wall thickness is really the only critical dimension, assuming the id is big enough to fit over the pin. So doing the math, winding a spring you'd want something around .015" to .020" wire, the larger diameter potentially pushing it.
I'd have to disassemble the fcu to get a meaningful view of what's going on and even then it would take a few angles with circles and arrows along with the description.Could you please post a picture, it would help to visualize what you explained above.
I can try to 3d print it in nylon, it may work.
What is your EDC that is better?Just a cleaner/smoother feel and not so much wall before the break. Maybe a lighter pull overall.
My other EDC is creamy smooth and has a consistent pull until it just breaks.
Require? Nothing.
Want? Everything.
Just figured I’d ask and glean the benefit of others’ experience before getting into the woods with it.
i do not mind much trigger on my 365, but stock iron sights kinda suck. i did not even try to explore what can fit there and would be better, as stock ones glow at night, so, really lazy to even begin dealing with it. the front one i dislike the most, it would be nicer to make it a bit thinner, i think.What is your EDC that is better?
I stopped by the Sig Pro Shop when I had a a P365. They had a Gray Guns trigger for the P320, which the store employee said was an improvement, but that there wasn't much that could be done with the minimal metal and design of the P365.
S&W model 64.What is your EDC that is better?
I stopped by the Sig Pro Shop when I had a a P365. They had a Gray Guns trigger for the P320, which the store employee said was an improvement, but that there wasn't much that could be done with the minimal metal and design of the P365.
How do these affect safety and/or reliability?Grayguns, The Sig Armorer, Armory Craft seem to be most popular for the 320 and you can even mix and match components but I note that some components may need to work together, such as the TSA disconnector and modified striker.
Fair question and I don’t have an answer. I only made the changes for competition purposes. I would imagine that if you crisp up the trigger and reduce take up without lightening the trigger to a competition weight, safety wouldn’t be compromised. If you are particularly safety conscious and planning EDC, maybe a gun with a trigger tab is better? I don’t have a sense of how the safety setup on the sigs works and what makes it work as well as other systems. Like, how does it permit the trigger tab to not be needed as a safety mechanism?How do these affect safety and/or reliability?
Reducing trigger take up requires caution. Most modern pistols have a firing pin block safety that is moved during the trigger take up. The firing pin block is what makes it impossible for the pistol to fire without the trigger being pulled. If you reduce trigger take up, the firing pin block may have reduced engagement, or none at all.Fair question and I don’t have an answer. I only made the changes for competition purposes. I would imagine that if you crisp up the trigger and reduce take up without lightening the trigger to a competition weight, safety wouldn’t be compromised.
Right, but I have heard of no problems with any of the comp triggers that are available for the 320 anyway.Reducing trigger take up requires caution. Most modern pistols have a firing pin block safety that is moved during the trigger take up. The firing pin block is what makes it impossible for the pistol to fire without the trigger being pulled. If you reduce trigger take up, the firing pin block may have reduced engagement, or none at all.
The only case I have heard of where a Glock fired in a holster without having the trigger pulled, the pistol had aftermarket trigger parts which had inadvertently disengaged the firing pin safety. I have never heard of an incident like that with a stock Glock, most likely because it is pretty much impossible.
When modifying triggers, it is important to understand how all the parts interact, and how much engagement there is. Also, some modifications may be safe enough for competition, but still closer to the edge than I would want in a carry gun.