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16-18" AR10, would you go 308 or 6.5 creedmoor?
- Thread starter Queen Bee
- Start date
Tallahassee
NES Member
Whatever happened with this? Did you get it to run? Curious people want to know, or at least I do.
So i ordered the new toolcraft bolt. And JP adjustable detent gas block. My friend is going to put that on. I do not know when he will get that work done. But i told him test fire it after he finishes.
I am in the dark as much as you currently.
I am in the dark as much as you currently.
Tallahassee
NES Member
Ever get your rifle back? All fixed? Or do you want to start selling some of that 6.5 you stocked up on?
Haha. With the toolcraft BCG things are perfect headstamps on the rifle now. I did also add the JP adjustable gas block which could also be helping. Hardest part now waiting on Forster to fix the full length sizer die that was under reamed. Ruined probably 10-15 cases lol. Have 300 140gr bullets, and 8lbs of H4350 for the gun along with 100 or so brass cases. All held up because of optics planet...
Next project is installing the cry havoc QRB on my pre healey AR15
Next project is installing the cry havoc QRB on my pre healey AR15
Jesus, I thought that was YOUR hand for a second...I was like 'Wow, Queen Bee has MAN HANDS!'
![[pot]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/037.gif "Stir the pot [pot]")
How many are you looking for? Its a combination of Hornady and S&B which is all I have used in it.
Also just looked at some of the unfired S&B 6.5CM I have and the primers already look flattened. There's virtually no countersink around the primer pocket.
gerrycaruso
NES Member
If I didn't reload, I'd get the .308. You can get less expensive surplus ammo to play with in .308 that's not available in 6.5 and the .308 will do the job just as well as the 6.5 unless you'll shooting exclusively at very long range.
Shot a bunch of magtech and hornday and s&b and all was going well till i was shooting a bunch and then next thing i know a round did not go off and yanked the charging handle back and out comes a bunch of powder. So there is a bullet in the rifling at the begining and my friend is going to get a metal rod to hammer it out. I am curious to see if it 1 or 2 bullets backed up in the barrel. Should be interesting. This build never ends ![[banghead]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/045.gif "Bang Head [banghead]")
beaker
NES Member
So the primer did not go off? I wonder if it was completely in battery.Shot a bunch of magtech and hornday and s&b and all was going well till i was shooting a bunch and then next thing i know a round did not go off and yanked the charging handle back and out comes a bunch of powder. So there is a bullet in the rifling at the begining and my friend is going to get a metal rod to hammer it out. I am curious to see if it 1 or 2 bullets backed up in the barrel. Should be interesting. This build never ends
Wow. If it wasn't for bad luck you wouldn't have no luck at all. 
Hard to understand how the powder didn't burn but the projectile still engaged the rifling.
Which brand was it?
Hard to understand how the powder didn't burn but the projectile still engaged the rifling.
Which brand was it?
It appeared to be S&B.
It makes me wonder if i need to buy a crimp die for when i start reloading.
Not an issue in bolt guns but i do know that ar10s slam bullets into chambers pretty rough so i wonder what happened.
It makes me wonder if i need to buy a crimp die for when i start reloading.
Not an issue in bolt guns but i do know that ar10s slam bullets into chambers pretty rough so i wonder what happened.
Tallahassee
NES Member
You kids and your fancy calibers and fancy semi auto firearms. Definitely a strange situation, can't say I have had that happen before.Shot a bunch of magtech and hornday and s&b and all was going well till i was shooting a bunch and then next thing i know a round did not go off and yanked the charging handle back and out comes a bunch of powder. So there is a bullet in the rifling at the begining and my friend is going to get a metal rod to hammer it out. I am curious to see if it 1 or 2 bullets backed up in the barrel. Should be interesting. This build never ends
@Tallahassee yes i know those fancy semi autos.. but i could say the same to you with your fancy bolt actions in fancy calibers... as i hold my WW2 1941 BYF mauser k98...
Btw i saw you ordered 2 boxes of the 6.5 american gunner.. do you reload 6.5?
Btw i saw you ordered 2 boxes of the 6.5 american gunner.. do you reload 6.5?
Tallahassee
NES Member
A friend of mine convinced me to try some of the American gunner, I was somewhat impressed with the results he was getting. But, to answer your question, I don't reload 6.5 yet. Not sure when I will, probably wont be for a while. The factory ammo that I have tried so far shoots really well.@Tallahassee yes i know those fancy semi autos.. but i could say the same to you with your fancy bolt actions in fancy calibers... as i hold my WW2 1941 BYF mauser k98...
Btw i saw you ordered 2 boxes of the 6.5 american gunner.. do you reload 6.5?
beaker
NES Member
You shouldn't need a crimp die. Do you have a set of bullet comparators to check bullet seating depth using the ogive?
Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator Basic Set 7 Inserts
The Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator is perfect for the reloader looking to quickly and precisely measure seating depth of loaded ammunition from...
www.midwayusa.com
Also if you don't have one, one of these and a 6.5CM modified case will let you figure out exactly where the lands are for your barrel and bullet so you can set your bullet depth accordingly.
Hornady Lock-N-Load Overall Length Ga Bolt Action
The Hornady Lock-N-Load Overall Length Gauge is one of the best kept secrets to accurate reloading. This tool allows reloaders to quickly and easily...
www.midwayusa.com
Apologies if you already have these and I am being captain obvious.
