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You are looking at three different chamber sizes here: .223 caliber, 5.56 MM and Wylde. .223 cartridges and 5.55 cartridges have the same physical dimensions. However, the 5.56 rounds are loaded to higher pressures. Therefore, it is not safe to shoot a 5.56 MM round in a rifle chambered for .223 caliber. The chambers on 5.56 rifles have a longer lead in angle than .223 rifles (the distance between the tip of the bullet and the point it becomes fully engaged with the rifled bore) to compensate for the higher pressures. Wylde chambers are a compromise between the two that make it safe to shoot both rounds in the same rifle.
Now here is a twist that makes it a little more confusing. Note that older Ruger Mini 14s are stamped as .223 caliber. However, they are really 5.56. Rock River rifles say 5.56 MM on their receivers but they are actually Wylde. Often the rifle manuals are not clear on the type of chamber a gun has so you may have to call the manufacturer to find out.
I have 3 different rifles with Wylde chambers and 2 are set up for precision shooting. They are tack drivers. Based on my experience I would say they are the way to go. I have never had a problem and the accuracy is great.
However, if you ever come across a bolt action rifle such as a Remington Model 700 or Winchester Model 70 that is stamped as .223 caliber DO NOT use it to fire 5.56 ammo. It would not be safe.
Soooo...what exactly do you shoot out of your .223 Wilde barrels...exact ammo would be helpful, even if it's just run of the mill 5.56. Brand/grain/charge?
Probably function and accuracy. I mean I'm looking for cheap ammo as well, this wouldn't be a match rifle at all. I have no plans for a rifle yet just would like to understand the .223 wyldes place among its brothers.
Mac, I would agree with most of what you said except your description of barrel twist. a 1-12 twist is one twist in twelve inches. That barrel spins the bullet less than a 1-7 twist, which would twist the bullet once every SEVEN inches.
The lighter bullets need less twist per barrel length than modern heavier bullets, which is why you see modern barrels with the 1-7 twist.
So feel me out here...
.223 = backyard sharpshooter
.223 wylde = match rifle for match and reloaded rounds
.556 = dependability and cheap plinker
Something along those lines?
So feel me out here...
.223 = backyard sharpshooter
.223 wylde = match rifle for match and reloaded rounds
.556 = dependability and cheap plinker
Something along those lines?
Soooo...what exactly do you shoot out of your .223 Wilde barrels...exact ammo would be helpful, even if it's just run of the mill 5.56. Brand/grain/charge?
What a well timed thread!
I was just reading about this, and came across this article:
http://www.luckygunner.com/labs/5-56-vs-223
It seems pretty sane, worth a read.
What got me there was headspace gauges: I have a ".223 Wylde no-go gauge" that I bought for re-barreling a rifle with a .223 Wylde chambered barrel. A couple weeks ago I was shooting with a friend and his brand-new AR shoots really poorly, literally can't keep them all on a 50' pistol target at 50Y. I thought it might be a headspace issue, so I suggested using my gauge.
But then I got to wondering: What's the difference between a .223 Rem., 5.56 NATO, and .223 Wylde headspace gauge?
Not much really, go and no go are very close but a 5.56 field gauge is about as "loose" as it gets before it's unsafe.
Can your friend keep groups of less than 3" @ 50 yards with your rifle?
Can you friend shoot a group at all.
What rifle does your friend shoot. Headspace is seldom a problem for accuracy usually the throat will be wasted before headspace fails.
I can't copy and paste pdf from my kindle? Google randells notes 223 headspace gauges.
I can't shoot his gun for shit either, and we both can easily shoot 3" groups with his other rifles using the same ammo, so I'm totally sure it's not operator error.
Damn, so much for the easy stuff.
What rifle and ammo, irons ,optics ?
Barrel crown, loose barrel, crappy barrel
- homebuilt rifle (bought the upper as a unit)
- can't remember the ammo, but it was Federal or similar, name brand
- BUIS sights, they don't wiggle, twist, or move; and we didn't muck with them. They feel solid. I can't remember which ones, but they were a name brand like MagPul or something.
- barrel crown hidden under a compensator, so I don't know.
- nothing feels loose, barrel feels solid on the upper.
- crappy barrel? Sure, Not sure how to tell that other than eliminate everything else.
More testing is in order, clearly.