.22lr Revolver

BOBKATT said:
And if your shooting bullseye which is all that you will do with a 22 lr revolver, never get anything shorter than 6" gun.
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Actually, Nenamaseck Rod & Gun out in Ware runs 6 classes of guns in their monthly pin shoots - centerfire revolver, centerfire semi auto, centerfire open, and rimfire semi auto, rimfire REVOLVER and Rimfire open.

The rimfire rounds are shot at candlepins instead of 10 pins.
 
dwarven1 said:
Actually, Nenamaseck Rod & Gun out in Ware runs 6 classes of guns in their monthly pin shoots - centerfire revolver, centerfire semi auto, centerfire open, and rimfire semi auto, rimfire REVOLVER and Rimfire open.

The rimfire rounds are shot at candlepins instead of 10 pins.
Click to expand...


I have also seen Rimfire pins with ten pin tops. Cute little buggers [wink]
 
Nothing like a good pissing contest to get the blood boiling...

BOBKATT, accept that there are people out there with more experience and learn from them. RGS has proven that he knows his stuff and can back it up. No insult intended here, but you are gaining a reputation of obstinate, unwarranted resolve.

Hanwei, NICE photography.

I want a 10 shot 4" 617 but don't want to spend $600+.


Chris
 
Executive said:
I want a 10 shot 4" 617 but don't want to spend $600+.
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You're going to hate me for this, Chris... I got my 617 at the S&W store for something like 28% off of list when we did the S&W plant tour - their usual 20% off list, plus another 10% off of that because we brought something like 40+ people into the store to buy stuff.

Membership has it's privileges. [smile]
 
Executive said:
Nothing like a good pissing contest to get the blood boiling...

BOBKATT, accept that there are people out there with more experience and learn from them. RGS has proven that he knows his stuff and can back it up.
Click to expand...

First of all, more experience doesn't mean that someone knows more than you do. I can't for the life of me think of someone who would recomend buying a newer model revolver, with MIM parts that should not have metal removed in the first place, then go and spend the money on an action job for a gun that is going to cost more than a better gun would cost used without a trigger job because it doesn't need one anyway.

That doesn't sound right to me, all the experience that this guy might or might not have had led him to this conclusion? Well it's a good thing that people are suggesting that the new lock revolvers are better then the older ones so that I can keep buying the older and better ones for less money.
 
An apology

I would like to take some band width to apologize to the original thread starter for dumping on his thread.

I don't deal well with misinformation but need to control myself. My problem no fault of anyone else.

If you are anywhere near the Cape, I am offering you a test fire of as many rounds as you would like with my 6" 10 shot 617. You supply eye and ear protection, I will have targets, about 500 rounds of ammo, and a range. If you want to try a Ruger Mk III, I can bring that also.

Send me an e mail and we can set this up. I can also bring my 625 45ACP revolver and my 1955 Target that are both set up as competition revolvers.

Again, Sorry for dumping on your thread. EDIT OUT RUDE COMMENT (see, I am getting better already)
 
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Wow thanks guys for such quick responses. A quick look at S&W's website shows they no longer make a 6 shot 617. For that matter Ruger's website doesn't seem to show any .22lr DA revolvers at all. Guess that simplifies things a little. Guess my decision is just down to new vs. classic and 4" or 6". Anyone know if one model has better, finer etc. sights than an other or am I splitting hairs here? I probably just going to have to visit Four Seasons and handle both side by side as they seem to have 2 model 17s (according to their website) and I would assume new 617s.

Hanwei absolutely beautiful pics.

Round Gun Shooter- Just saw your last post right before I posted this. First, no apology necessary at all, I sincerely appreciate anyone taking the time to share their experiences and opinions. My personal opinion is that no post by anyone has detracted anything from the thread. Second, a huge thank you for your extremely generous offer. Not really near the cape (Quincy) but I am not about to pass up such an opportunity. I'll send you an email or pm as soon as I can.

Thank you one and all
 
I suggest you get a 6" gun. That way you can shoot at 50 ft., 25 yards, and 50 yards. A 4" gun is not going to have the sight radius needed to shoot at the longer distances, especially for a beginner. You might hear from people who do shooting at shorter distances for whatever recreational purpose that they do and the 4" gun would be better suited for their needs. This is something that might interest you and you might need to take that into consideration.

However, it seems to me that a 6" gun with do what a 4" gun does at short distances better than a 4" gun trying to do what a 6" gun does at longer distances. This is especially true for the .22lr caliber that does not recoil as much as larger calibers where in that scenario a shorter sight radius might help to speed up target acquisition at shorter distances better than the longer sight radius would of a 6" gun. Therefore, I suggest for an all around great gun you go with a 6" gun.
 
DTR said:
Wow thanks guys for such quick responses. A quick look at S&W's website shows they no longer make a 6 shot 617. For that matter Ruger's website doesn't seem to show any .22lr DA revolvers at all. Guess that simplifies things a little. Guess my decision is just down to new vs. classic and 4" or 6". Anyone know if one model has better, finer etc. sights than an other or am I splitting hairs here? I probably just going to have to visit Four Seasons and handle both side by side as they seem to have 2 model 17s (according to their website) and I would assume new 617s.

Hanwei absolutely beautiful pics.

Round Gun Shooter- Just saw your last post right before I posted this. First, no apology necessary at all, I sincerely appreciate anyone taking the time to share their experiences and opinions. My personal opinion is that no post by anyone has detracted anything from the thread. Second, a huge thank you for your extremely generous offer. Not really near the cape (Quincy) but I am not about to pass up such an opportunity. I'll send you an email or pm as soon as I can.

Thank you one and all
Click to expand...

You are added to my contacts so you can PM. I will also bring my 2.5" 66 and show you how it hits at 100 yards.
 
Of course, a 6" barreled gun is a bit more unwieldy than a 4" barrel - especially if you should decide you want to carry it in the woods.
 
I prolly should keep my nose out of this, but I find it soooo much fun to jump in. I have a couple of more comments to make.

First, to Hanwei. There is a 6" model 34, sorta.... it's called the Model 35. Here's one I bought last month.

mod352dshot.jpg


It's a great gun too, but our new shooter might not like the smaller frame of the J Frame and Improved I frame guns. A 617, 17, K22 all in a K frame is a more substantial gun, though the little J frames are fun.

Another point, to Round Gun Shooter. I always thought the momentum of the cylinder rotation had some effect on the trigger pull on a DA revolver. Maybe not the trigger pull itself, but the overall feel of the shot and recovery. While the trigger pull might be the same length, is it the same feel? If you do ever get DTR down to try your 617, I'd like to join you. I've never fired one and would like to see for myself how they feel compared to a 17, 18, or K22. I'll bring along a brick of .22 and we'll all have some fun.
 
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Don't forget to check out older Colts: Officer Model in shooter condition can be found under $500. Trooper MK III are nice too. These were someone else's picture:

2007_0804Image0058.jpg


2007_0909Image0001.jpg
 
depicts said:
First, to Hanwei. There is a 6" model 34, sorta.... it's called the Model 35. Here's one I bought last month.

SNIP
Click to expand...

Hi Bill,

wow... good to know. Gotta love this place. I learn something new every day [grin] Nice M35 btw [smile]

depicts said:
It's a great gun too, but our new shooter might not like the smaller frame of the J Frame and Improved I frame guns. A 617, 17, K22 all in a K frame is a more substantial gun, though the little J frames are fun.
Click to expand...

Yeah... I figured a K frame would be better as a first .22 wheel gun. But I just thought I'd throw it out there. Who knows right?
 
depicts said:
Another point, to Round Gun Shooter. I always thought the momentum of the cylinder rotation had some effect on the trigger pull on a DA revolver. Maybe not the trigger pull itself, but the overall feel of the shot and recovery. While the trigger pull might be the same length, is it the same feel?
Click to expand...

Good question. As complete an answer as I can give.

There is a lot of talk about "Trigger Jobs" on revolvers. I do not own a box stock revolver and have not owned a box stock revolver for more than three hours in a lot of years.

I do not do a "Trigger Job" I do an action job on my revolvers. Part of that is timing and making sure the cylinder rotates freely. If the timing is correct, the cylinder turns freely without excessive end shake, and the lock work is properly fitted, the cylinder rotation has very little impact on the trigger pull if you have a proper trigger pull ingrained in your muscle memory.

There is also very little difference between frame sizes. Can you tell a difference? Maybe but most of that is in your head.

I started shooting S&W revolvers in 1970 after trying the neat new Ruger Security Six. I can tell a slight difference but not enough to impact muscle memory on any DA revolver that the cylinder turns the right way [smile]

depicts said:
If you do ever get DTR down to try your 617, I'd like to join you. I've never fired one and would like to see for myself how they feel compared to a 17, 18, or K22. I'll bring along a brick of .22 and we'll all have some fun.
Click to expand...

I am not opening the day up to a group so you and DTR will be it. This is more for me to show him and to show my apology is sincere not to make a day of shooting.

Send me an e mail with your contact info (again) and I will contact you when we set it up.

Regards,
 
Ok, I'm going to ask RGS on this one...

I hear a lot of people say that the 10 shot S&W seems to have a lot of timing issues. More like, you shoot it a lot, then the timings off and you start to have shaving issues. Only because there's such little distance between each cylinder chamber.

Do you have a lot of re-tuning on these? Or is that just a lot of poppycock from people that may drop their guns more often than others?
 
C-pher, he'll answer.... eventually! I sort of asked him the same thing.... but he didn't say the timing or the hand created any problems, though I have heard the same thing.
 
Sorry, life has been a little crazy. My experience is no timing issues at all. Ammo issues but not timing

You need to find what the gun likes and stick to it. If you shoot a lot of lead, plan to clean it and remove the lead. Your bore and cylinder may look clean and shiny but you may have just polished the lead deposits.

I have shot the 617 I h*ve for three years since converting it from 6 shot to 10. No problems at all

Also, if you have specific questions I don't see, my e mail is in my profile and I check that and answer twice a day no matter what I am doing

Excuse any mistakes on this, the Blackberry key board is not very big
 
Anybody know anything about these? Which might be preferable if condition the same?


H & R 999 SPORTSMAN with 6" barrel

H&R 949 with 5 1/2" barrel
 
eisenhow said:
Not sure if you found a .22LR revolver yet but check out this. Please buy it before I fight the temptation and but it for myself. [grin]
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Call S&W's store out in Springfield for a price check before you do - I paid less for mine out there. They have a 20% off list policy. (granted, I got another 10% off because NES went out for the factory tour and dropped some 45 shooters into their store - talk about kids in a candy store! - but that price still strikes me as being kind of high.)

Whoa... just checked S&W's website. List price of $861?? What are they making them out of now, stainless steel & gold alloy?? I take back my comments - 20% off of $861 comes out to about $689, according to the old K&E on my desk. Must have been some serious price increases in the last few years! Looks like that's a pretty good price after all.
 
dwarven1 said:
Call S&W's store out in Springfield for a price check before you do - I paid less for mine out there. They have a 20% off list policy. (granted, I got another 10% off because NES went out for the factory tour and dropped some 45 shooters into their store - talk about kids in a candy store! - but that price still strikes me as being kind of high.)

Whoa... just checked S&W's website. List price of $861?? What are they making them out of now, stainless steel & gold alloy?? I take back my comments - 20% off of $861 comes out to about $689, according to the old K&E on my desk. Must have been some serious price increases in the last few years! Looks like that's a pretty good price after all.
Click to expand...

The 617 linked above is a good deal. I know the owner and trust it is in the condition described.
 

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