3D printing

[pastera]

Hard to put to words but I need a M1 style front sight but modified to attach to lyman match style front sight base. It also needs to be a good amount taller so I can get down to at least a 50-75 yard zero.

Is this what you want to interface to?

Lyman Globe Front Target Sight 93 Match .550 Height Dovetail Base

The Lyman 93 Match Globe Front Sight fits the target sight dovetail mounting block commonly used on match rifles. Utilizing the larger 7/8"...

www.midwayusa.com

 

[mac1911]

front of the barrel will heat up considerably, so, it is a bitch to do, as it will need to wrap the base so close to the end of the barrel.
got to be nylon with a fastener, and some sort of a contraption to accept and hold steady an iron front sight something assembly, as to print an actual sight from plastic would be probably futile accuracy wise and prone to bending or breaking off.
i can be wrong about it, but, my gut feeling is - it needs to be a metal insert there.

so, is it something like this you want?

Yes but the dovetail would be 90’ turned 90’ and some height added.
Its a project for a 22. Heat wont be a issue. Ad far as strength. 100% range toy no rough action

 

[mac1911]

Is this what you want to interface to?

Lyman Globe Front Target Sight 93 Match .550 Height Dovetail Base

The Lyman 93 Match Globe Front Sight fits the target sight dovetail mounting block commonly used on match rifles. Utilizing the larger 7/8"...

www.midwayusa.com

Yes that style mount.

Im tempted to cast one from aluminum and give me machining skills a test and cut the dove tail. I still need a better vise for my mill, that pos drill press style vise that came with it sucks. Comes loose, and if you try to crank down on it the jaws lift the part.

 

[mac1911]

Yes but the dovetail would be 90’ turned 90’ and some height added.
Its a project for a 22. Heat wont be a issue. Ad far as strength. 100% range toy no rough action

I want front sight to match the rear.

 

[pastera]

Yes but the dovetail would be 90’ turned 90’ and some height added.
Its a project for a 22. Heat wont be a issue. Ad far as strength. 100% range toy no rough action

Measuring dovetails
Can you measure x, h and D for both dovetails?
Best accuracy is when D = h
If you don't have two of the same pin, just use whatever you have and give both diameters
Then I'll need an estimate of from base of dovetail to base of dovetail.

I can do the model and plug the numbers in later.
Printing in nylon should hold up decently.

Looked up the price for a 1/4" 60° dovetail cutter - $60-90.
Once you have the right dimensions it's probably cheaper to get it SLS printed in brass than to buy the tools to cut the dovetail

 

[eisenhow]

I suck at soldering but I managed to get an ADXL345 soldered up to a raspberry pi pico via some ethernet cable. My y freq was close to print and measure (35.4 vs 38.0). The x freq was much higher (99.0 vs 37.0) Next is to tune pressure advance.

 

[paul73]

I suck at soldering but I managed to get an ADXL345 soldered up to a raspberry pi pico via some ethernet cable. My y freq was close to print and measure (35.4 vs 38.0). The x freq was much higher (99.0 vs 37.0) Next is to tune pressure advance.

what klipper and wall speed settings you ended up with after this tuning process?
i found in my stash all required components to make an usb connected sensor, but, extremely lazy to even try to attempt. not sure if it will make any substantial difference compared to the empirical tuning by printing those resonance structures.

 

[paul73]

does anybody who ran klipper for long enough know the permanent fix to errors like
Move out of range: 111.200 343.000 12.600 [25496.697]
?

it is very sporadic, usually appears at the attempt to start a new print after a previous print, and once it begins - it is permanent until reload of the printer.cfg or full restart.
it happens always when it heats up and it should draw an initial line on the left side to purge the filament before printing.
reload of the .cf file always works, then it all is fine for a while, sometimes very long time. both printers do it occasionally, so it is 100% on klipper itself.

i am ignoring it, as it is easily fixed by a reload, but, still curious.

line draw commands are:
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line

 

[paul73]

sunlu pla plus is on sale again - an excellent material that i print at 240 deg and 120mm/s speed.

 

[paul73]

can anybody comment - is 22W a real deal for steel/metal surfaces, or is it still non-essential until it gets to 50W and above?

Creality Launches the Falcon2, Its Most Powerful Laser Engraver Yet

The new Creality Falcon2 is packed with features and seems a promising entry into laser engraving, with 22W of power and the ability to produce ‘hundreds of colors’.

all3dp.com

 

[Kevin_NH]

can anybody comment - is 22W a real deal for steel/metal surfaces, or is it still non-essential until it gets to 50W and above?

Creality Launches the Falcon2, Its Most Powerful Laser Engraver Yet

The new Creality Falcon2 is packed with features and seems a promising entry into laser engraving, with 22W of power and the ability to produce ‘hundreds of colors’.

all3dp.com

This is a diode laser, claims to cut "0.05 mm of stainless steel sheeting", so 18 gauge sheet steel, and to "engrave" thicker metal, though I suspect the "engraving" is more "discoloring" and won't make it to ATF-mandated depths.

 

[BJones]

can anybody comment - is 22W a real deal for steel/metal surfaces, or is it still non-essential until it gets to 50W and above?

Creality Launches the Falcon2, Its Most Powerful Laser Engraver Yet

The new Creality Falcon2 is packed with features and seems a promising entry into laser engraving, with 22W of power and the ability to produce ‘hundreds of colors’.

all3dp.com

22W is weak sauce, they make 4 stack diode lasers (20x4, atomstack) for 1/4 price and those still aren't up to real engraving on metal.

One thing that diode lasers are great though is much better and sharper focus than say 40W CO2 lasers (old trusty K40).

If you don't need to do engraving as a business and ok with a slower process, diode lasers are great to precisely removing paint/masking on a metal surface. Then you can use simple electrolysis to etch the metal as deep as you like.

 

[paul73]

22W is weak sauce, they make 4 stack diode lasers (20x4, atomstack) for 1/4 price and those still aren't up to real engraving on metal.

One thing that diode lasers are great though is much better and sharper focus than say 40W CO2 lasers (old trusty K40).

If you don't need to do engraving as a business and ok with a slower process, diode lasers are great to precisely removing paint/masking on a metal surface. Then you can use simple electrolysis to etch the metal as deep as you like.

no, i was wondering about engraving polished stainless steel and possibly brass/nickel items. but if it cannot do stainless steel, then, ok.

don`t care about wood carving and other things...

 

[pastera]

does anybody who ran klipper for long enough know the permanent fix to errors like
Move out of range: 111.200 343.000 12.600 [25496.697]
?

it is very sporadic, usually appears at the attempt to start a new print after a previous print, and once it begins - it is permanent until reload of the printer.cfg or full restart.
it happens always when it heats up and it should draw an initial line on the left side to purge the filament before printing.
reload of the .cf file always works, then it all is fine for a while, sometimes very long time. both printers do it occasionally, so it is 100% on klipper itself.

i am ignoring it, as it is easily fixed by a reload, but, still curious.

line draw commands are:
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line

Haven't seen anything close except when I told the printer to move beyond normal limits on purpose to reset z alignment.
Had to update the configuration to allow negative moves

Are you running two printer off one controller? Or is this happening on two separate controllers?
First thoughts are power supply and SD card quality.

 

[paul73]

Haven't seen anything close except when I told the printer to move beyond normal limits on purpose to reset z alignment.
Had to update the configuration to allow negative moves

Are you running two printer off one controller? Or is this happening on two separate controllers?
First thoughts are power supply and SD card quality.

Happens on both printers on separate controllers. I don’t think it’s hardware related. As klipper restart fixes it every time, I don’t care too much

 

[ddeck]

I cracked a piece on my 3d printed feeder for my Hornady LnL. The best part of having a 3d printer is that I don’t have to wait for a new part. 3 hours later it was all done.

Having all the files ready to go makes it pretty easy. I also tweak the parts based on how it was working.

 

[pastera]

I've been avoiding buying a Giraud TriWay trimmer because of the cost skyrockets since it's one per cartridge at $110 each.

Looked at the pictures and it looks like the bearing and case insert can be swapped out - so off to Fusion I went



Then I wrote an OpenSCAD script to make STLs for inserts using case dimensions from the SAAMI specs.

So for $0.10 in filament and an oring you get interchangeable trim sizes

 

[38ExtraSpecial]

I've been avoiding buying a Giraud TriWay trimmer because of the cost skyrockets since it's one per cartridge at $110 each.

Looked at the pictures and it looks like the bearing and case insert can be swapped out - so off to Fusion I went

View attachment 724988

Then I wrote an OpenSCAD script to make STLs for inserts using case dimensions from the SAAMI specs.

So for $0.10 in filament and an oring you get interchangeable trim sizes

You are awesome.

Did you order a trimmer yet

 

[BJones]

I've been avoiding buying a Giraud TriWay trimmer because of the cost skyrockets since it's one per cartridge at $110 each.

Looked at the pictures and it looks like the bearing and case insert can be swapped out - so off to Fusion I went

View attachment 724988

Then I wrote an OpenSCAD script to make STLs for inserts using case dimensions from the SAAMI specs.

So for $0.10 in filament and an oring you get interchangeable trim sizes

props for use of OpenSCAD ... and scripting in it!

One problem though is that solid printed inserts may not mate well with the cartridge. So instead of solid insert, may be try 10 or 20% fill that would allow some flex or have two thinner surfaces that make contact (like piston rings)

 

[38ExtraSpecial]

props for use of OpenSCAD ... and scripting in it!

One problem though is that solid printed inserts may not mate well with the cartridge. So instead of solid insert, may be try 10 or 20% fill that would allow some flex or have two thinner surfaces that make contact (like piston rings)

Wouldn’t that cause issues with inconsistent trim length? I would think some spring would cause issues. Not that you can’t work with that and probably get good results but I think adjusting your print a little would work better.

 

[richc]

I've been avoiding buying a Giraud TriWay trimmer because of the cost skyrockets since it's one per cartridge at $110 each.

Looked at the pictures and it looks like the bearing and case insert can be swapped out - so off to Fusion I went

View attachment 724988

Then I wrote an OpenSCAD script to make STLs for inserts using case dimensions from the SAAMI specs.

So for $0.10 in filament and an oring you get interchangeable trim sizes

Can you please explain this is mere mortal terms? I love my Giraud trimmer.

 

[pastera]

Can you please explain this is mere mortal terms? I love my Giraud trimmer.

For the TriWay Trimmer not the Power Trimmer


The Triway uses a 6203 bearing with a machined case insert to align the case to the cutter.
Pull the retaining clip, pop out the bearing and insert a new 6203 bearing with no insert - now you can use 3d printed case inserts and readjust the cutter for each cartridge.
Slower but if you trim large batches then the setup shouldn't be all that bad.

 

[pastera]

You are awesome.

Did you order a trimmer yet

Not yet - Other priorities for the hobby money right now but I hope to get to it this summer and I have a couple of 6k RPM 1/4 HP DC motors that I will power it from.

 

[pastera]

props for use of OpenSCAD ... and scripting in it!

One problem though is that solid printed inserts may not mate well with the cartridge. So instead of solid insert, may be try 10 or 20% fill that would allow some flex or have two thinner surfaces that make contact (like piston rings)

I've printed three different inserts and checked them with sized and trimmed cases (checked in case gauges)
The script was set to have the neck stick out 0.125"
223: 0.125
300AAC: 0.1255
30-06: 0.125

Yes, you can push sideways on the case an get it at a slight angle but when pushing inward the case indexes on the shoulder very firmly keeping the case aligned.

 

[paul73]

Jayo pla+ for $13.99 - it is a good material, on par with sunlu, diff colors.

Amazon product ASIN B0BHZ1WZ4GView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BHZ1WZ4G

 

[pastera]

Jayo pla+ for $13.99 - it is a good material, on par with sunlu, diff colors.

Amazon product ASIN B0BHZ1WZ4GView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BHZ1WZ4G

Ordered 2 spools to try out

 

[paul73]

Ordered 2 spools to try out

i think i used them at 220 print temp, but you will need to test.

most of good pla+ are very flexible to max print temp, like sunlu and morpilot both i print at 240.

so far sunlu was unbeatable for how consistent it looks at diff print speeds and high print temps. and flows very well too.
it goes to $13-14 sale price usually once a month, or bi-monthly, when, i think, they just overstock it.

Amazon product ASIN B08CVG2RVPView: https://www.amazon.com/PLA-Filament-SUNLU-Dimensional-Plus/dp/B08CVG2RVP

 

[pastera]

I use mostly 3d Solutech because it's been very consistent across lots.
Sunlu has been good for me too but I've really only used it for special colors in silk pla for decorative items.

 

[paul73]

I use mostly 3d Solutech because it's been very consistent across lots.
Sunlu has been good for me too but I've really only used it for special colors in silk pla for decorative items.

old pla and somewhat newer pla meta are both pretty bad in that regard, but pla plus is a new thing that, so far, 'just works'. unless they will f#ck up the formula.

 

[usp45ct]

So any recommendations on a good 3d printer to start with. I know these things are ever changing but what should I look for versus stay away from?