Golddiggie
NES Member
Google result that looks promising:
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3D printing
- Thread starter NH Phantom
- Start date
pastera
NES Member
I'm on travel but should be home late tomorrow and can talk you through odd thread sizes in Fusion once I'm sitting in front of my laptop.
If that doesn't do exactly what you need then OpenSCad scripts solve the corner cases
pastera
NES Member
ThreaDoctor: Advanced Thread Calculator (UN, M, NPT)
The ThreaDoctor will calculste for you: Nominal thread data. Allowed tolerances depending on the thread class. and much more...
www.machiningdoctor.com
You need to make a copy of ANSIUnifiedScrewThreads.xml and use the 15/16-20 as a template for 15/16-24 (both internal and external) you don't need to do the 3a/b tolerancing if you want to save some time.
<Designation>
<ThreadDesignation>15/16-24 UNS</ThreadDesignation>
<CTD>15/16-24 UNS</CTD>
<TPI>24.0</TPI>
<Thread>
<Gender>external</Gender>
<Class>2A</Class>
<MajorDia>0.9362</MajorDia>
<PitchDia>0.9091</PitchDia>
<MinorDia>0.8866</MinorDia>
</Thread>
<Thread>
<Gender>internal</Gender>
<Class>2B</Class>
<MajorDia>0.9375</MajorDia>
<PitchDia>0.908</PitchDia>
<MinorDia>0.9158</MinorDia>
<TapDrill>0.8969 </TapDrill>
</Thread>
<Thread>
<Gender>external</Gender>
<Class>3A</Class>
<MajorDia>0.9375</MajorDia>
<PitchDia>0.9104</PitchDia>
<MinorDia>0.8879</MinorDia>
</Thread>
<Thread>
<Gender>internal</Gender>
<Class>3B</Class>
<MajorDia>0.9375</MajorDia>
<PitchDia>0.9145</PitchDia>
<MinorDia>0.8994</MinorDia>
<TapDrill>0.8969 </TapDrill>
</Thread>
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gotcha, will try, thx!ThreaDoctor: Advanced Thread Calculator (UN, M, NPT)
The ThreaDoctor will calculste for you: Nominal thread data. Allowed tolerances depending on the thread class. and much more...
You need to make a copy of ANSIUnifiedScrewThreads.xml and use the 15/16-20 as a template for 15/16-24 (both internal and external) you don't need to do the 3a/b tolerancing if you want to save some time.
Golddiggie
NES Member
pastera
NES Member
Never said I was quick...
What kills me is that I've done several other custom threads in the past and Fusion seems to chuck my changes when it updates - I need to put them all in a single file and back it up outside the AppData file structure
so...ThreaDoctor: Advanced Thread Calculator (UN, M, NPT)
The ThreaDoctor will calculste for you: Nominal thread data. Allowed tolerances depending on the thread class. and much more...
You need to make a copy of ANSIUnifiedScrewThreads.xml and use the 15/16-20 as a template for 15/16-24 (both internal and external) you don't need to do the 3a/b tolerancing if you want to save some time.
<Designation>
<ThreadDesignation>15/16-24 UNS</ThreadDesignation>
<CTD>15/16-24 UNS</CTD>
<TPI>24.0</TPI>
<Thread>
<Gender>external</Gender>
<Class>2A</Class>
<MajorDia>0.9362</MajorDia>
<PitchDia>0.9091</PitchDia>
<MinorDia>0.8866</MinorDia>
</Thread>
<Thread>
<Gender>internal</Gender>
<Class>2B</Class>
<MajorDia>0.9375</MajorDia>
<PitchDia>0.908</PitchDia>
<MinorDia>0.9158</MinorDia>
<TapDrill>0.8969 </TapDrill>
</Thread>
<Thread>
<Gender>external</Gender>
<Class>3A</Class>
<MajorDia>0.9375</MajorDia>
<PitchDia>0.9104</PitchDia>
<MinorDia>0.8879</MinorDia>
</Thread>
<Thread>
<Gender>internal</Gender>
<Class>3B</Class>
<MajorDia>0.9375</MajorDia>
<PitchDia>0.9145</PitchDia>
<MinorDia>0.8994</MinorDia>
<TapDrill>0.8969 </TapDrill>
</Thread>
how do you deal with a, certain factor of shrinkage on the inner nut threads?
like, all printers i have are pretty well setup and correct external dimensions wise. if i print a bolt - it gets out fine, like those threaded dies i used for dillon.
but when a nut gets printed - its inner section is always a tad small, it would not get on a bolt with same thread, never. it would have to be re-printed with scaling it up, usully i do it in cura, for simplicity.
is there anything to address that in that construct above that you provided me? a scaling factor, may be, not sure.
When you're just changing colors, one of the better options for the "flushed" filament at color change is to specify a flush object, something where you don't care what color it ends up being printed. Basically if you're printing a Yoda, then next to him on the printbed you add a powder funnel or something else where color doesn't matter (see screenshot below)
Manchester Makerspace has a Bambu X1 Carbon with the filament changer (AMS), if you want to see one working in person.
Depending on your object and filaments, there are options to reduce wasted filament:
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pastera
NES Member
You don't
The issue is more with slicing tolerances and layer heights when printing threads.
24TPI requires a 0.16mm layer max to reproduce well.
You also need to change slicing tolerance to exclusive in cura.
Golddiggie
NES Member
Me going to the ManchVegas Makerspace wouldn't happen anytime soon. I'm not in a huge rush to get a new 3D printer though. At this point I need to wait for the job situation to stabilize (right now, even though I'm working, I have high levels of concern about the company not laying me off before end of year) before I make the purchase. The work situation has also put any largish purchases on hold.When you're just changing colors, one of the better options for the "flushed" filament at color change is to specify a flush object, something where you don't care what color it ends up being printed. Basically if you're printing a Yoda, then next to him on the printbed you add a powder funnel or something else where color doesn't matter (see screenshot below)
Manchester Makerspace has a Bambu X1 Carbon with the filament changer (AMS), if you want to see one working in person.
Depending on your object and filaments, there are options to reduce wasted filament:
looks like a pretty good deal from aliexpress
plasticfantasticdeals.com
and the source of those news:
www.reddit.com
Home - Plastic Fantastic Deals
plasticfantasticdeals.com
and the source of those news:
Reddit - Dive into anything
www.reddit.com
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After following this thread for a while it seems interesting with a good amount of various applications. As with tech related items evolving quickly any recommendation for machines up to about $500 or so? Print quality is important.
If you're looking for "pretty" versus "functional" prints, consider going with resin.
If you want fine print quality and fast printing in ABS/PLA/PETG, save up the extra $200 and get a Bambu P1P
we are now on the brink of major battle.
the newest and greatest now is probably this:
K1 Max 3D Printer
Creality K1 Max 3D Printer reaches 600mm/s* in only 0.03s based on 20000mm/s² acceleration. It can be as productive as several 3D printers together.
www.creality.com
but one got to be a moron to buy it first.
gotta wait first to hear from others of how it will go.the bedslinger models i use with a creality sprite extruders are reliable workhorses that are nowhere as fast as K1 - but they work. ender 3 s1 now often can be found at as low as $250 or something.
the square boxed ones like ender 5 series would be interesting - IF - if they would not introduce K1.
the whole creality lineup is very disturbed right now with the K1, really. they made a very interesting ender 5 S1 model with a new better extruder - but, to buy it now when K1 is soon to be here - nope.
i do not look at anything else than creality mostly due to exclusivity of replacement parts for non-creality brands, and more pain to deal with other competing brands overall.
sky is the limit, though.
and the bambu people praise them, seems like. but, i just tested - went to amazon and typed 'bambu p1p' in there - the result of items shown is quite miserable. dunno, it is not that i would like. until any model got shitload of spare parts available - it is a russian roulette to deal with it.
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pastera
NES Member
Ender 5 S1 Pro
Assemble and print, done
Print quality is a lot about filament quality and slicer settings/tradeoffs
If you do the assembly with care and then run a few tuning prints with a decent (doesn't need to be exotic) filament then the tradeoff becomes speed versus quality.
pastera
NES Member
Concur with the Bambu - more expensive than the limit but opens up a large number of awesome accessories.
i would go with 3 S1 for this price:
View: https://www.reddit.com/r/3dprintingdeals/comments/146navf/260_ender_3_s1/
pastera
NES Member
Nope - know someone who just bought a 5 S1 Pro.
Assemble and print at speed and quality any version of the 3 will struggle to achieve even if you put the money into it.
for how much?
cockpitbob
NES Member
I really need to standardize on one brand and stop getting whatever is in stock in the color I want. I'm at that point where quality trumps price. Who makes good, consistent PETG and PLA for under $50/kg?
pastera
NES Member
$500 - the limit the OP set.
For a budget, I say get an Ender 3 and add the Sprite Pro along with a bed probe. That will get you to 3 S1 Pro level performance for less initial outlay.
But out of the box performance for someone who doesn't want to deal with a steep learning curve the 5 S1 pro gets you to nylon with the addition of a relatively cheap enclosure kit.
wat? $50?
sunlu pla+ can be found on their web site at $11 per kg. not right now, though - at this moment it is not on sale.
{Over 3KG Bundle Sales} 1.75mm SUNLU PLA+(PLA Plus), PLA Matte 3D Printer Filament 1KG/Roll
Over 3KG Bundle Sales for PLA+ and PLA Matte 3D printing filaments. Same quality but more affordable price.
www.sunlu.com
jayo, sunlu, eSUN, polymaker, overture... amazon has quite a bit of options.
results for pla != pla meta != pla plus across brands, so test and stuck to what works for you.
to make it more fun they may change formulas from time to time and change how material works, as well.
pastera
NES Member
I use 3d Solutech followed by overture and Hatchbox the RepRapper.
Nova Maker - only used their TPU with decent results.
All of those can be had for 20-30/kilo
Got some Jayo PLA+ for <16/k and it is decent for the price but will go with a better name next time I'm ordering PLA+
pastera
NES Member
This
The only exception in that list is Jayo but only barely - for the price it's good but not an exceptional filament.
I will say that when it's printing right the layer adhesion is excellent as long as I kept the print speed down around 150mm/s or slower
comgrow right now has 1 refurbushed 5 s1 available for $319.
Limited USA Comgrow Refurbished Creality Printer-UPS
Looking for a budget refurbished 3D printer? Creality turns your images into reality. We offer "cheap and cheerful" FDM printers to meet the needs of most hobbyists. We also guarantee that the printers we sell will work as original and come with a 1-year warranty. Don't hesitate, get your first...
www.comgrow.com
i am waiting for K1 reviews anyway. a 250mm/s 5 S1 is cool, a 600mm/s is a different realm. will see how realistic that going to be. first ones should be going out there by the end of june.
I’ve had good luck with overture petg
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I'm not totally stuck at $500. I realize there are addons that factor into this.I have zero experience with this so plug and play are a plus.
Seems like enclosed would be an essential, dry box, print quality.
I see people talking about the ability for higher print temps too.
Seems like enclosed would be an essential, dry box, print quality.
I see people talking about the ability for higher print temps too.
Originally launched on kickstarter
AnkerMake M5 3D Printer
Setting a New Speed Record, Now Upgraded to 500 mm/s[1] Precise 0.1 mm Detail[2] Built-In AI Camera Monitoring Auto-Created Timelapses Hub Connects Multiple Devices 7×7 Auto-Leveling Easy Assembly Aluminum Alloy Structure Print Volume 235×235×250 mm³
www.ankermake.com
I've used Monoprice PLA+. Tried different brands once in a while, always regretted the decision. Find what works for your printer and just keep buying that. Too many brands to pick from though.
