3D printing

i have a very particular question, and would appreciate a hint, if anybody knows the exact answer, as i struggle to find a solution.
i am trying to make a coupler with a very specific thread - i need it to fit on a pipe that has 15/16"-24 thread.

i cannot find how to get such a nut of thread or anything in fusion 360. the only relatively close i see is under 'ansi unified screw threads' if you selct 0.9375 size - it gives options for some 15/16" threads - but it skips 24 - there is only 20 and 28.

and i cannot find any external script or utility to make such a thread, but, may be i am not looking right? i would usually pull it from a MaMaster-Carr catalog, but it does not seem to have a nut with such thread, which is quite odd. not sure wtf.
I'm on travel but should be home late tomorrow and can talk you through odd thread sizes in Fusion once I'm sitting in front of my laptop.

If that doesn't do exactly what you need then OpenSCad scripts solve the corner cases
 
i have a very particular question, and would appreciate a hint, if anybody knows the exact answer, as i struggle to find a solution.
i am trying to make a coupler with a very specific thread - i need it to fit on a pipe that has 15/16"-24 thread.

i cannot find how to get such a nut of thread or anything in fusion 360. the only relatively close i see is under 'ansi unified screw threads' if you selct 0.9375 size - it gives options for some 15/16" threads - but it skips 24 - there is only 20 and 28.

and i cannot find any external script or utility to make such a thread, but, may be i am not looking right? i would usually pull it from a MaMaster-Carr catalog, but it does not seem to have a nut with such thread, which is quite odd. not sure wtf.

You need to make a copy of ANSIUnifiedScrewThreads.xml and use the 15/16-20 as a template for 15/16-24 (both internal and external) you don't need to do the 3a/b tolerancing if you want to save some time.

<Designation>
<ThreadDesignation>15/16-24 UNS</ThreadDesignation>
<CTD>15/16-24 UNS</CTD>
<TPI>24.0</TPI>
<Thread>
<Gender>external</Gender>
<Class>2A</Class>
<MajorDia>0.9362</MajorDia>
<PitchDia>0.9091</PitchDia>
<MinorDia>0.8866</MinorDia>
</Thread>
<Thread>
<Gender>internal</Gender>
<Class>2B</Class>
<MajorDia>0.9375</MajorDia>
<PitchDia>0.908</PitchDia>
<MinorDia>0.9158</MinorDia>
<TapDrill>0.8969 </TapDrill>
</Thread>
<Thread>
<Gender>external</Gender>
<Class>3A</Class>
<MajorDia>0.9375</MajorDia>
<PitchDia>0.9104</PitchDia>
<MinorDia>0.8879</MinorDia>
</Thread>
<Thread>
<Gender>internal</Gender>
<Class>3B</Class>
<MajorDia>0.9375</MajorDia>
<PitchDia>0.9145</PitchDia>
<MinorDia>0.8994</MinorDia>
<TapDrill>0.8969 </TapDrill>
</Thread>
 
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You need to make a copy of ANSIUnifiedScrewThreads.xml and use the 15/16-20 as a template for 15/16-24 (both internal and external) you don't need to do the 3a/b tolerancing if you want to save some time.
gotcha, will try, thx!
 

You need to make a copy of ANSIUnifiedScrewThreads.xml and use the 15/16-20 as a template for 15/16-24 (both internal and external) you don't need to do the 3a/b tolerancing if you want to save some time.

<Designation>
<ThreadDesignation>15/16-24 UNS</ThreadDesignation>
<CTD>15/16-24 UNS</CTD>
<TPI>24.0</TPI>
<Thread>
<Gender>external</Gender>
<Class>2A</Class>
<MajorDia>0.9362</MajorDia>
<PitchDia>0.9091</PitchDia>
<MinorDia>0.8866</MinorDia>
</Thread>
<Thread>
<Gender>internal</Gender>
<Class>2B</Class>
<MajorDia>0.9375</MajorDia>
<PitchDia>0.908</PitchDia>
<MinorDia>0.9158</MinorDia>
<TapDrill>0.8969 </TapDrill>
</Thread>
<Thread>
<Gender>external</Gender>
<Class>3A</Class>
<MajorDia>0.9375</MajorDia>
<PitchDia>0.9104</PitchDia>
<MinorDia>0.8879</MinorDia>
</Thread>
<Thread>
<Gender>internal</Gender>
<Class>3B</Class>
<MajorDia>0.9375</MajorDia>
<PitchDia>0.9145</PitchDia>
<MinorDia>0.8994</MinorDia>
<TapDrill>0.8969 </TapDrill>
</Thread>
so...
how do you deal with a, certain factor of shrinkage on the inner nut threads?

like, all printers i have are pretty well setup and correct external dimensions wise. if i print a bolt - it gets out fine, like those threaded dies i used for dillon.

but when a nut gets printed - its inner section is always a tad small, it would not get on a bolt with same thread, never. it would have to be re-printed with scaling it up, usully i do it in cura, for simplicity.

is there anything to address that in that construct above that you provided me? a scaling factor, may be, not sure.
 
]I have some things I want to design up that would be multi-colored
When you're just changing colors, one of the better options for the "flushed" filament at color change is to specify a flush object, something where you don't care what color it ends up being printed. Basically if you're printing a Yoda, then next to him on the printbed you add a powder funnel or something else where color doesn't matter (see screenshot below)

I need to see about getting more info on how you use more than one filament in a print with their unit. I have some things I want to design up that would be multi-colored , or multiple filament types in the same print. I know that it ejects a decent amount of filament when you change during a print. Which means I'll probably need to position it someplace where I can setup a catch container for that. Shouldn't be too difficult to do where I would set it up.
Manchester Makerspace has a Bambu X1 Carbon with the filament changer (AMS), if you want to see one working in person.

Depending on your object and filaments, there are options to reduce wasted filament:
 
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so...
how do you deal with a, certain factor of shrinkage on the inner nut threads?

like, all printers i have are pretty well setup and correct external dimensions wise. if i print a bolt - it gets out fine, like those threaded dies i used for dillon.

but when a nut gets printed - its inner section is always a tad small, it would not get on a bolt with same thread, never. it would have to be re-printed with scaling it up, usully i do it in cura, for simplicity.

is there anything to address that in that construct above that you provided me? a scaling factor, may be, not sure.
You don't
The issue is more with slicing tolerances and layer heights when printing threads.
24TPI requires a 0.16mm layer max to reproduce well.
You also need to change slicing tolerance to exclusive in cura.
 
When you're just changing colors, one of the better options for the "flushed" filament at color change is to specify a flush object, something where you don't care what color it ends up being printed. Basically if you're printing a Yoda, then next to him on the printbed you add a powder funnel or something else where color doesn't matter (see screenshot below)


Manchester Makerspace has a Bambu X1 Carbon with the filament changer (AMS), if you want to see one working in person.

Depending on your object and filaments, there are options to reduce wasted filament:
Me going to the ManchVegas Makerspace wouldn't happen anytime soon. I'm not in a huge rush to get a new 3D printer though. At this point I need to wait for the job situation to stabilize (right now, even though I'm working, I have high levels of concern about the company not laying me off before end of year) before I make the purchase. The work situation has also put any largish purchases on hold.
 
looks like a pretty good deal from aliexpress


and the source of those news:
 
After following this thread for a while it seems interesting with a good amount of various applications. As with tech related items evolving quickly any recommendation for machines up to about $500 or so? Print quality is important.
If you're looking for "pretty" versus "functional" prints, consider going with resin.

If you want fine print quality and fast printing in ABS/PLA/PETG, save up the extra $200 and get a Bambu P1P
 
After following this thread for a while it seems interesting with a good amount of various applications. As with tech related items evolving quickly any recommendation for machines up to about $500 or so? Print quality is important.
we are now on the brink of major battle.
the newest and greatest now is probably this:


but one got to be a moron to buy it first. :) gotta wait first to hear from others of how it will go.

the bedslinger models i use with a creality sprite extruders are reliable workhorses that are nowhere as fast as K1 - but they work. ender 3 s1 now often can be found at as low as $250 or something.

the square boxed ones like ender 5 series would be interesting - IF - if they would not introduce K1.

the whole creality lineup is very disturbed right now with the K1, really. they made a very interesting ender 5 S1 model with a new better extruder - but, to buy it now when K1 is soon to be here - nope.

i do not look at anything else than creality mostly due to exclusivity of replacement parts for non-creality brands, and more pain to deal with other competing brands overall.
sky is the limit, though.

and the bambu people praise them, seems like. but, i just tested - went to amazon and typed 'bambu p1p' in there - the result of items shown is quite miserable. dunno, it is not that i would like. until any model got shitload of spare parts available - it is a russian roulette to deal with it.
 
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After following this thread for a while it seems interesting with a good amount of various applications. As with tech related items evolving quickly any recommendation for machines up to about $500 or so? Print quality is important.
Ender 5 S1 Pro
Assemble and print, done

Print quality is a lot about filament quality and slicer settings/tradeoffs
If you do the assembly with care and then run a few tuning prints with a decent (doesn't need to be exotic) filament then the tradeoff becomes speed versus quality.
 
If you're looking for "pretty" versus "functional" prints, consider going with resin.

If you want fine print quality and fast printing in ABS/PLA/PETG, save up the extra $200 and get a Bambu P1P
Concur with the Bambu - more expensive than the limit but opens up a large number of awesome accessories.
 
And remember cheap filament is only fine if you know what your doing so you can recognize issues and correct for them.
When starting out go for name brand filament in the $20-$25/kilo
 
And remember cheap filament is only fine if you know what your doing so you can recognize issues and correct for them.
When starting out go for name brand filament in the $20-$25/kilo
I really need to standardize on one brand and stop getting whatever is in stock in the color I want. I'm at that point where quality trumps price. Who makes good, consistent PETG and PLA for under $50/kg?
 
for how much?
$500 - the limit the OP set.
For a budget, I say get an Ender 3 and add the Sprite Pro along with a bed probe. That will get you to 3 S1 Pro level performance for less initial outlay.

But out of the box performance for someone who doesn't want to deal with a steep learning curve the 5 S1 pro gets you to nylon with the addition of a relatively cheap enclosure kit.
 
PLA for under $50/kg?
wat? $50?

sunlu pla+ can be found on their web site at $11 per kg. not right now, though - at this moment it is not on sale.

jayo, sunlu, eSUN, polymaker, overture... amazon has quite a bit of options.
results for pla != pla meta != pla plus across brands, so test and stuck to what works for you.
to make it more fun they may change formulas from time to time and change how material works, as well.
 
I really need to standardize on one brand and stop getting whatever is in stock in the color I want. I'm at that point where quality trumps price. Who makes good, consistent PETG and PLA for under $50/kg?
I use 3d Solutech followed by overture and Hatchbox the RepRapper.
Nova Maker - only used their TPU with decent results.
All of those can be had for 20-30/kilo
Got some Jayo PLA+ for <16/k and it is decent for the price but will go with a better name next time I'm ordering PLA+
 
wat? $50?

sunlu pla+ can be found on their web site at $11 per kg. jayo, sunlu, eSUN, polymaker, overture... amazon has quite a bit of options.
results for pla != pla meta != pla plus across brands, so test and stuck to what works for you.
to make it more fun they may change formulas from time to time and change how material works, as well.
This
The only exception in that list is Jayo but only barely - for the price it's good but not an exceptional filament.
I will say that when it's printing right the layer adhesion is excellent as long as I kept the print speed down around 150mm/s or slower
 
$500 - the limit the OP set.
For a budget, I say get an Ender 3 and add the Sprite Pro along with a bed probe. That will get you to 3 S1 Pro level performance for less initial outlay.

But out of the box performance for someone who doesn't want to deal with a steep learning curve the 5 S1 pro gets you to nylon with the addition of a relatively cheap enclosure kit.
comgrow right now has 1 refurbushed 5 s1 available for $319.

i am waiting for K1 reviews anyway. a 250mm/s 5 S1 is cool, a 600mm/s is a different realm. will see how realistic that going to be. first ones should be going out there by the end of june.
 
Originally launched on kickstarter

 
I really need to standardize on one brand and stop getting whatever is in stock in the color I want. I'm at that point where quality trumps price. Who makes good, consistent PETG and PLA for under $50/kg?

I've used Monoprice PLA+. Tried different brands once in a while, always regretted the decision. Find what works for your printer and just keep buying that. Too many brands to pick from though.
 
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