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3D printing
- Thread starter NH Phantom
- Start date
Fixxah
NES Member
Do they hurt?
pastera
NES Member
Printing even at 250mm/s is difficult.comgrow right now has 1 refurbushed 5 s1 available for $319.
Limited USA Comgrow Refurbished Creality Printer-UPS
Looking for a budget refurbished 3D printer? Creality turns your images into reality. We offer "cheap and cheerful" FDM printers to meet the needs of most hobbyists. We also guarantee that the printers we sell will work as original and come with a 1-year warranty. Don't hesitate, get your first...www.comgrow.com
i am waiting for K1 reviews anyway. a 250mm/s 5 S1 is cool, a 600mm/s is a different realm. will see how realistic that going to be. first ones should be going out there by the end of june.
Getting the filament fully melted at those speeds when you are hitting 25+ mm^3/s volumes.
That said my modified X5SA Pro has the acceleration to hit 250-300 mm/s and that seriously reduces times for multiple parts.
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What do you get for the Pro upgrade vs the standard S1?
pastera
NES Member
I mixed up the models
The 5 S1 is direct drive and high temp
You want the high temp hot end because the bowden tube will fail over time even at PLA temps.
When I bought my sprite extruder there were two versions - looks like they only install the pro version on the 5
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@pastera Thanks that clears up the confusion.
For what filament is enclosing the unit necessary?
For what filament is enclosing the unit necessary?
Absolutely necessary for Nylon and helps a lot with ABS.
Not really necessary with the standard PLA/PETG filaments.
Enclosure and the added heat starts to cause problems with electrical components so keep that in mind with your solution (try to relocate critical components outside the enclosure).
pastera
NES Member
Nylon, ABS, Polypropylene for the 300°C class stuff
If you want to go higher, you need to change out the thermistor for a thermocouple and then you can print some truly engineering grade stuff (but be prepared for $200+/kilo filament costs)
Nylon and PP are the most useful
ABS is good because it can be chemically polished and glued with acetone so really high quality surface finishes are possible with post processing
on the other hand, temp variations and drafts can also cause problems, especially humidity if you got a printer in a garage, I keep all my printers inhouse, total temp control with semi-enclosed space.
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So is this the printer in question? $449 on sale now from Creality. I've seen them a little cheaper but if you throw in the enclosure it's not bad.
Any thoughts? Anything to add on to if I order?
store.creality.com
Any thoughts? Anything to add on to if I order?
Ender-5 S1 3D Printer
Experience higher efficiency and eco-friendliness while the Ender-5 S1 stands firmly to deliver top-quality models. The direct extrusion feature ensures seamless handling of flexible filaments. Upgrade to high-temp printing with the hotel for more possibilities. Enjoy quick and expert-level...
store.creality.com
pastera
NES Member
A spool of decent (any of the brands recommended) PLASo is this the printer in question? $449 on sale now from Creality. I've seen them a little cheaper but if you throw in the enclosure it's not bad.
Any thoughts? Anything to add on to if I order?
Ender-5 S1 3D Printer
Experience higher efficiency and eco-friendliness while the Ender-5 S1 stands firmly to deliver top-quality models. The direct extrusion feature ensures seamless handling of flexible filaments. Upgrade to high-temp printing with the hotel for more possibilities. Enjoy quick and expert-level...
90% isopropyl alcohol and/or Acetone for cleaning the bed surface (you will get oils on it from your hands)
If you get PETG get some purple glue sticks - petg can stick too well to the bed and the washable glue stick works great to promote bed adhesion while hot but release when cold (or wet the build plate)
so is this good shit (ender 5) ? I was looking into it and found some negatives, don't remember exactly what, support may be, parts? The direct extrusions sounds cool. Do you have it?
Also, not too long ago, I had S6 that would not boot. I fired up another one (S6 deriv) that I have not used in a month and it would not boot either. I had to try flashing firmware for at least a day, until it miraculously booted. It made no sense, a bit of a coincidence that two printers, same model would go tits up and have a corrupted firmware within a day interval. None are internet connected, but I wander if they really are, because it almost feels like they had timebombed firmware that had to talk to some mothership.
pastera
NES Member
All of the lower cost printers are made to a price point so they have a higher failure rate than a industrial printer. But they are 1/10 the price.
Another consideration is how many people buy them without researching, try to use them without reading instructions and then complain that something didn't work. These are the same people who shouldn't be allowed in the same room as a gun with a Dremel.
The sprite extruder is a serious pain if you clog the extruder but if you use decent filament with known good profiles you won't need to clear a clog.
And if you do clog it there are several videos on how to disassemble the Sprite plus a new hot end for it is only $20 if you screw up clearing the clog.
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So got it ordered. They have a promo spin the wheel. Got another $50 off!
If it comes with glass bed - wait with alcohol/acetone for cleaning, use just warm water. Creality glass beds should have special coating on them.
For pla/pla+ a regular hair spray works very well sprayed on a glass.
To unclog sprite is not difficult.
I have a long punch that is 1.5mm in diameter and it fits fine from top.
When issue happens- usually if I do not catch filament running out - I heat it up to 300, let it sit a bit then push it from top with punch. It is not difficult to take it all apart as well.
Punch is a last resort if just new filament cannot push out old gunk. But so far, compared to original design of ender 3 boden extruders - sprite was a true workhorse.
I had only one fail where steel tube started leaking from connection into heaterblock and made huge mess.
pastera
NES Member
I use the solvent wipe down after a good scrub with dawn if I have adhesion issues - but it's a wipe down with a dampened rag not soaking the surface.
Forgot to mention the hairspray - aqua net or similar super cheap sprayable form of polyvinyl acetate (washable glue stick)
If you are intent on printing nylon, Polymaker has the best quality/price ratio that I’ve found. their stuff prints well and also performs well. 2kg for $100 is a great price once you look around.
us.polymaker.com
Fiberon™ PA6-GF25 (Formerly PolyMide™ PA6-GF)
Fiberon™ PA6-GF25 is a glass fiber reinforced PA6 (Nylon 6) filament. The material exhibits excellent thermal and mechanical properties without sacrificing the layer adhesion. Download the TDS to learn more about the performance of the material. Formerly called PolyMide PA6-GF. Density: 1.2g/cm³...
us.polymaker.com
pastera
NES Member
Overture Easy Nylon is great alsoIf you are intent on printing nylon, Polymaker has the best quality/price ratio that I’ve found. their stuff prints well and also performs well. 2kg for $100 is a great price once you look around.
Fiberon™ PA6-GF25 (Formerly PolyMide™ PA6-GF)
Fiberon™ PA6-GF25 is a glass fiber reinforced PA6 (Nylon 6) filament. The material exhibits excellent thermal and mechanical properties without sacrificing the layer adhesion. Download the TDS to learn more about the performance of the material. Formerly called PolyMide PA6-GF. Density: 1.2g/cm³...
It's a blend so not quite PA6 but close and much easier to print
Easier to print but nowhere near as durable or strong. Overture is barely better than PLA+ in my experience. But, it would be a better place to start since it is nearly as easy to print as PLA+.
pastera
NES Member
Learning curve
And easy nylon is cheap enough to use like PLA+ but is more durable.
I have creality CR6 and max, both have "glass" heated surface. I never sprayed it with anything, never had issues with adhesion.
5S1 comes with PC spring steel, not glass though, and it's not heated, so many be spraying be a good idea.
Microcenter has 5 s1 for $389
they also have 15 day return and technically 30 day return if shit fails thanks to MA laws.
shit, now I want one.
pastera
NES Member
I usually print pla directly but put down glue stick with PETG to get it to release after.
But coating the bed does help if you have the first layer speed cranked up.
The ender 5 has a heated bed with a removable flex surface. You can exchange it out for glass if you want.
With sprite extruder my bedslingers print at 120-100mm/s, speed is limited only by extruder heater as it is not capable to continuously melt filament at faster than 14-18 mm^3/s.
My concern with 5s1 is that it has same sprite extruder I use now. Dunno.
New k1 model seems to have much beefier design there, and claims 600 speed vs 250 of 5s1. I bet when k1 will go mainstream 5s1 prices will drop down to a level where 3v2 is now - an under $100.
how did you get one, I only see them on pre-sale right now at Creality's site:
$600 ... that's badass
I did not get one YET
But probably will. Cannot decide if I will be ok with smaller k1 or want their bigger one that is not yet available
and - just saw it, K1 is not even out there yet, but there are already discount codes for it.
View: https://www.reddit.com/r/3dprintingdeals/comments/147souo/creality_k1_30_off_with_code_zkk130u_569_free/
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Here's the Creality coupon code I used. Don't know if it will work for everyone. $50 off on purchasing over $299
JBP195C6.
JBP195C6.
