I'm just talking about the resolution. What nozzle size and layer height? What material?
-
If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
-
Be sure to enter the NES/Pioneer Valley Arms February Giveaway ***Smith & Wesson SD9VE 9MM***
3D printing
- Thread starter NH Phantom
- Start date
I'm just talking about the resolution. What nozzle size and layer height? What material?
was it all plug and play, ready to go right out of the box? how long did it take for this print to complete?
.6 nozzle
I'll get the layer height for you. PLA
ADALINDA by Prusa Research | Download free STL model | Printables.com
ADALINDA Author: Louise Driggers aka. Loubie | Download free 3D printable STL models
www.printables.com
49 hours
I know this isn't really a for sale section, but 3d printing is kinda niche still. But I'm looking to offload my printer. Artillery genius pro, has a fulament bed and pei sheet, full metal hot end upgrade, and silicon bed spacers instead of springs. Comes with stock bed. If anyone's interested shoot me a dm or ask here.
May post an official FS post in the yard sale section.
May post an official FS post in the yard sale section.
nightpoison
NES Member
I'm tired of tinkering with my 3D printers. I'm currently in the process of upgrading my D300vs and I'm looking at a Voron 2.4 or a ratrig core, I decided to pull the trigger on a Bambu Lab A1. I want one printer thats just print it and forget it.
F=¢€, this thing is nice. Out of the box this thing prints like a dream. For $600 with multi-filament support this machine is massive value.
F=¢€, this thing is nice. Out of the box this thing prints like a dream. For $600 with multi-filament support this machine is massive value.
i am pretty happy with a k1 max, of only work done to it was the addition of a second side fan, to mimic voron setup. and a swap of the nozzle for cht clone one.
and a rooting of it, of course, so it runs standard klipper interface.
a bed slinger, today? nah. never again.
nightpoison
NES Member
I had an ender 3, years ago. Hated it. Sold it and built a dbot.
Didn't think I would grab another bed slinger. However, looking at reviews online and my buddy who picked one up, I decided to give it a go. Only having it up and running for just over 24 hrs I'm really enjoying it. Long term will need to be considered, but for now I'm happy
Bedslinger just seems like a horrible idea to me
an end of an era.
2 of my modded ender 3s work just fine with sprite extruders and cht nozzles, they can do 30 mm3/s sustained, and are printing almost exactly twice slower than the k1 max that runs on 18000/9000 accel/decel speed, 300mm/s walls. works fine as a backup, but i would not be buying any of such devices no more.
Printing an enclosure for my new printer.
I don't have an Ender but you tube will help.
Let me know I'll visit and help!
edin508
NES Member
Yes, you will be watching and re watching many YouTube vids.
Now that it's together and before you try to print anything there are some things you will need to do. Level the bed and calibrate "E" steps would be step one. There are lots of little tweaks to get that Ender3 printing well, do them! Use good filaments, I have good luck with the eSun brand and it's all I use. There are other good filament companies but I have always had good luck with that brand so I stick with it.
Welcome to your new rabbit hole!
Keep your filment dry. In winter that’s not as difficult but your biggest enemy to bad prints is moisture.
How hardcore you need to go on this varies by the filament (and the humidity level in your room). I just keep PLA and ABS in large "gasket totes" with freshly "recharged" silica desiccant packs. Desiccant won't dry out already wet filament, merely holds the line.
For more technical (and expensive) filaments, e.g. nylon, I print directly from a heated filament dryer like the SUNLU S2.
cockpitbob
NES Member
As @Kevin_NH says, it varies with the material. Printing Ninjaflex (TPU), drying it changed it from being unprintable to giving great results.
I found mylar ziploc bags that fit 1 spool. I store all my spools bagged with desiccant. The desiccant eventually changes color, but that's because it continues to pull moisture from even freshly dried filament, not because the bags leak.
Fixxah
NES Member
I have a spool of pla that my cousin gave me. The humidity in my house is around 17% right I think. We have forced hw and big radiators.
Watching the videos is mind boggling. Trying to figure out how the templates get from laptop to ender is via thumb stick I assume. The directions it came with are pretty much useless.
There is so much that is unexplained and it feels like learning a new language right now.
Baby steps...
Watching the videos is mind boggling. Trying to figure out how the templates get from laptop to ender is via thumb stick I assume. The directions it came with are pretty much useless.
There is so much that is unexplained and it feels like learning a new language right now.
Baby steps...
edin508
NES Member
SD card.
Go to Thingiverse and find some simple things to print to get your feet wet.
Start with the SD card, then as you learn, there are pretty easy ways to connect it to a laptop wirelessly.
Definitely drinking thru a firehouse at first but there are really good resources out there to help. 15-20 years ago, not so much.
Definitely drinking thru a firehouse at first but there are really good resources out there to help. 15-20 years ago, not so much.
Got a local makerspace? Find out when they have open house, bring a case of mid-tier local beer, receive knowledge.
pastera
NES Member
Where are you located?
If you are stuck, grab your printer and stop by in Taunton and we'll get you going.
Fixxah
NES Member
It is printing whatever came on th
e card now.
Fixxah
NES Member
Norwood area. Here is the file it is doing. And the pla I will eventually use.
Attachments
Hatchbox is kind of meh, over priced for what it is. You will def find better options as you blow money on filament and find what works for you.
The biggest thing they don’t tell you about non enclosed 3D printers is that every environment is different in terms of temp, humidity, air movement, dust, etc. and that environment largely dictates the settings and filaments that work best.
Figuring that ideal setting envelope out is what takes the most frustrating time. IMO
The biggest thing they don’t tell you about non enclosed 3D printers is that every environment is different in terms of temp, humidity, air movement, dust, etc. and that environment largely dictates the settings and filaments that work best.
Figuring that ideal setting envelope out is what takes the most frustrating time. IMO
edin508
NES Member
It's in Celsius. Typically 60c bed temp and around 200c hot end for PLA.
And for your next print, print a "Benchy" and post a pic.
