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Aero M5 'Project' - Sub MOA Made Simple

Cool build, been thinking of spinning up something similar myself...

What do us guys in Mass have for Magazine options for these rifles?
Magpul 10 round and steel 10-round by Duramag and others. The steel mags are very similar to M14/M1A mags except for the latch design. No clue regarding pre-ban but maybe others will chime in?
 
Magpul 10 round and steel 10-round by Duramag and others. The steel mags are very similar to M14/M1A mags except for the latch design. No clue regarding pre-ban but maybe others will chime in?
There are out there some steel mags that are limited to 10rds by a little easily removable bolt in the middle. Not sure if hunting for preban 20rd ones is worth it.
Plastic 10rd magpul feeds well too
 
There are out there some steel mags that are limited to 10rds by a little easily removable bolt in the middle. Not sure if hunting for preban 20rd ones is worth it.
Plastic 10rd magpul feeds well too
IMHO 10 round is fine for just about anything you would want to do with a 308 AR. The bigger mags just get in the way for shooting prone or off a bipod.
 
I got an m5, i dont know anythings about the ar10 type of gun, will take all the advices you guys give.
Gun need to break in, ill put lot of grease in the bolt, and all the moving parts, i heard it like to run wet, is this the correct type of grease?
Gun come with vortex viper 2.5-10 scope, anyones know where to get the user manual 4 it? This is an old scope, can not download the user manual from vortex webpage.
 

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IMHO 10 round is fine for just about anything you would want to do with a 308 AR. The bigger mags just get in the way for shooting prone or off a bipod.
Sure thing. A 20rd ones are just a shtf option, really, if you would ever need to use that rifle for its actual intended purpose. Or hunt.
 
I got an m5, i dont know anythings about the ar10 type of gun, will take all the advices you guys give.
Gun need to break in, ill put lot of grease in the bolt, and all the moving parts, i heard it like to run wet, is this the correct type of grease?
Gun come with vortex viper 2.5-10 scope, anyones know where to get the user manual 4 it? This is an old scope, can not download the user manual from vortex webpage.
On AR's I use oil not grease. RemOil, G96, or the like. If you shoot in weather below ~15°F, don't use RemOil.
 
Sure thing. A 20rd ones are just a shtf option, really, if you would ever need to use that rifle for its actual intended purpose. Or hunt.
At least for me, actual intended purpose would still be prone or with bipod- so still 10 round mags.
 
20s work just fine from prone.

I got an m5, i dont know anythings about the ar10 type of gun, will take all the advices you guys give.
Gun need to break in, ill put lot of grease in the bolt, and all the moving parts, i heard it like to run wet, is this the correct type of grease?
Gun come with vortex viper 2.5-10 scope, anyones know where to get the user manual 4 it? This is an old scope, can not download the user manual from vortex webpage.



I run this in everything.

EWG (Extreme Weapons Grease)
 
I'm so torn. I am finally thinking of building a large frame, and in beige for once. (I know! But with black, they match my shoes.)

I'm still telling myself I want to limit my cartridges. So I can't decide between 308 and the manbun. On the one hand, neither is useful for hunting (deer) in MA, so the external ballistics of CM sounds promising. On the other, 308 is more easily available and less expensive, and I'm never shooting further than 300 yds...and I already cut off all my hair.

I know I can just get both, and eventually probably will, but which one first? Should I have put this in the First World Problems thread instead?
Thats where im at, so im thinking of having my first one be 308, and then wait to build a 6.8, cause why not.

This will be my first build, looking forward to it.
 
How much are the MBT2 triggers normally? They are claiming to be on sale now for $99. Not sure if its a "fake" sale or if thats a good price.
Up until 2020 material price inflation, they were sub-$90 for a very long time. Purely out of spite for Geissele to take market share from him. But they’re worth more than they cost. Crisper and more repeatable break than Geissele SSA, but I do like the feel of Geissele’s trigger face better.
 
Cool build, been thinking of spinning up something similar myself...

What do us guys in Mass have for Magazine options for these rifles?
For prebans, there are old, rare, and potentially unreliable 20rd Armalite “waffle” mags.

Or, there are also Preban KAC SR-25 20 rounders. There are a couple different manufacturing methods they used. But KAC themselves don’t have a specific description for which ones are Preban because some newer style ones were made before the ban. The older style are definitely Preban, but the newer could be either or.
 
Up until 2020 material price inflation, they were sub-$90 for a very long time. Purely out of spite for Geissele to take market share from him. But they’re worth more than they cost. Crisper and more repeatable break than Geissele SSA, but I do like the feel of Geissele’s trigger face better.
I just set back my 308 ar on LaRue trigger from triggertech, and while it is ok, the difference is severe.
I agree also with LaRue to be better than much more expensive geissele. Still, triggertech is better.
 
I just set back my 308 ar on LaRue trigger from triggertech, and while it is ok, the difference is severe.
I agree also with LaRue to be better than much more expensive geissele. Still, triggertech is better.
Never tried a triggertech
 
I just replaced the larue with the trigger tech on the 223, and I agree, far prefer the trigger tech.

My one regret is not paying more for the diamond. Would prefer a bit less than 3.5lbs
 
I just replaced the larue with the trigger tech on the 223, and I agree, far prefer the trigger tech.

My one regret is not paying more for the diamond. Would prefer a bit less than 3.5lbs
i think the adaptable model at 2.5# pull is at the best point for an AR. 1.5# or below break on a gun you move with is getting too weak.
the 'independence' discounted models used to be sold as 2.5# adaptable ones, but this year they marked non-adjustable 3.5# pull ones as 'independence' ones. i got 2 before looking and had to modify them to reduce the pull, but, it was trickier than expected, as if spring tension is reduced below 2# on those models the trigger starts to malfunction, so i had to do more work to bring it above 2#. but, anyway, stage 2 break on all triggertechs is very crisp, very good for a range gun, but for something intended to more, say, military purposes i would prefer a larue, as its break is stiffer and more 'traditional'.
 
but for something intended to more, say, military purposes i would prefer a larue, as its break is stiffer and more 'traditional'.
Yep, in my humble opinion a 2.5 lb or below trigger on an AR is for range toys. Nothing wrong with range toys, I just highly suggest that 3.5# or higher is more suited for any AR you might carry around or use for self defense or home defense. High Power, CMP etc. competitions require minimum 4.5# on semi-auto; so I'm used to that and can live with 4.5# for most purposes. For a PRS gas gun, for sure I want a lower pull weight and I think my 6.5 CM is around 2.5#. Still a risk. A few years ago a guy had problems with his rifle and I let him borrow mine. He was not accustomed to the light trigger and got a DQ for a ND. It was in a safe direction but accidental so they sent him home.

Also keep in mind that the recoil from a 308 is much higher than for 223/5.56 and low weight triggers can promote accidental 'doubling' or multiple surprise 'bangs'.
 
Yep, in my humble opinion a 2.5 lb or below trigger on an AR is for range toys. Nothing wrong with range toys, I just highly suggest that 3.5# or higher is more suited for any AR you might carry around or use for self defense or home defense. High Power, CMP etc. competitions require minimum 4.5# on semi-auto; so I'm used to that and can live with 4.5# for most purposes. For a PRS gas gun, for sure I want a lower pull weight and I think my 6.5 CM is around 2.5#. Still a risk. A few years ago a guy had problems with his rifle and I let him borrow mine. He was not accustomed to the light trigger and got a DQ for a ND. It was in a safe direction but accidental so they sent him home.

Also keep in mind that the recoil from a 308 is much higher than for 223/5.56 and low weight triggers can promote accidental 'doubling' or multiple surprise 'bangs'.
i have triggertech in the 6.5cm lower and larue now on 308 lower, which are obviously interchangeable, i can assure original 2.5# triggertech does not malfunction on a 308.
overall you are correct 100% in the first sentence, i do the same. it is good to have options, as i got now more triggers than lowers. :)
 
I am currently running an adjustable triggertech (first gen) in my AR-10. I do like the feel of the action - so to speak, but construction wise, they feel like a toy. Man can you adjust it light though!
I am a first time user of a geissele "SSA X Trigger with Lightning Bow". The trigger shape is awesome, The feel of the pull is weird to me though. Almost feels like 3 stages. Nothing like the national match triggers i have tried (on other peoples hardware.)
 
i think the adaptable model at 2.5# pull is at the best point for an AR. 1.5# or below break on a gun you move with is getting too weak.
the 'independence' discounted models used to be sold as 2.5# adaptable ones, but this year they marked non-adjustable 3.5# pull ones as 'independence' ones. i got 2 before looking and had to modify them to reduce the pull, but, it was trickier than expected, as if spring tension is reduced below 2# on those models the trigger starts to malfunction, so i had to do more work to bring it above 2#. but, anyway, stage 2 break on all triggertechs is very crisp, very good for a range gun, but for something intended to more, say, military purposes i would prefer a larue, as its break is stiffer and more 'traditional'.
Ah yes that’s a good point I had not thought about, even my M1A I’ve bump fires a couple of times from handling the trigger lightly.

Once I get the lower and start looking at that ar-308 I’ll look at the 2.5-4.5 trigger tech trigger, it’s cheaper than the diamond one too.

Thanks thanks,
 
  • Brake is a VG6 Epsilon. I'm a fan of their stuff and they come with a convenient little hole on the bottom for us pin and weld fags.
Mountain, how does the HB match the VG6 brake? would I be able to remove the gas block over a pinned brake? Im debating a HB or a bull barrel, kinda want to be able to remove the gas block.
 
Mountain, how does the HB match the VG6 brake? would I be able to remove the gas block over a pinned brake? Im debating a HB or a bull barrel, kinda want to be able to remove the gas block.
That particular BA barrel uses a .750" gas block if I recall correctly. I'll have to take a look in case the crush washer might interfere.
 
That particular BA barrel uses a .750" gas block if I recall correctly. I'll have to take a look in case the crush washer might interfere.
.750" is standard, i run the same non-adjustable one on the 20" BA barrel i got now, and it is just fine.
 
And I think the vg6 gamma is 0.86 wide
I don't usually worry about ability to remove the gas block. Once it's on, it's on. Also for pin and weld the top of the pin is tacked down, so once you drill through that it's not super difficult to remove. PITA of course compared to free state config.
 
I don't usually worry about ability to remove the gas block. Once it's on, it's on. Also for pin and weld the top of the pin is tacked down, so once you drill through that it's not super difficult to remove. PITA of course compared to free state config.
ok, ill go with the HB, found one 20" for 150.
 
i have triggertech in the 6.5cm lower and larue now on 308 lower, which are obviously interchangeable, i can assure original 2.5# triggertech does not malfunction on a 308.
overall you are correct 100% in the first sentence, i do the same. it is good to have options, as i got now more triggers than lowers. :)
Accidental bump firing off a pair of rounds is a legitimate risk with super light triggers on 308 gas guns. It’s not a malfunction of the trigger, but rather an artifact of heavier recoil and a light trigger. It can be mitigated with things that reduce recoil like brakes or heavy rifles. But the risk is real and has been brought up by KAC employees.

Glad yours has been good though.
 
first thing you do after a build is to cock the gun (with no ammo in it, of course) and then smack the stock at the floor. if it fires - it is not a good thing.
triggertech passes that test fine. but i had some triggers i mutilated that were, well, sporadically full auto- but it was on purpose. :)

i really think the 2.5# is the threshold that is relatively safe - bumps wise. a 1.5# and 1# or less - nope. like, a lightened 1# trigger in my .22lr cz is not passing the bump test.
I’m not talking about that type of bumping.

I’m talking about “bump firing” which is the act of shooting quickly where your trigger finger doesn’t move past its initial pull, but the recoil resets the trigger and your forces on the gun push it forward and therefore push the trigger into your finger, firing off another shot. The trigger is still functioning exactly as designed. It’s just an accidental rapid pair being shot when you have a gas gun with a very light trigger and heavy-er recoil.
 
I’m not talking about that type of bumping.

I’m talking about “bump firing” which is the act of shooting quickly where your trigger finger doesn’t move past its initial pull, but the recoil resets the trigger and your forces on the gun push it forward and therefore push the trigger into your finger, firing off another shot. The trigger is still functioning exactly as designed. It’s just an accidental rapid pair being shot when you have a gas gun with a very light trigger and heavy-er recoil.
Yep, I figured it after pressing ‘post’ button:)
 
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