AR trigger

Supposedly they are a good idea. With a standard trigger the pins are designed to rotate. With a cassette trigger they don’t rotate. So they rely on tension screws. But that’s not the greatest idea. So the thought behind em is lighter tension, and use the anti walk pins to ensure pins stay in place.

This is only what I’ve read. I haven’t seen any further proof that this is the case.

Good read below on why anti rotation pins suck.

 
Good read below on why anti rotation pins suck.


Exactly. But Chads article about the directly relates to a standard FCG, not a cassette FCG. I know he dislikes them as well. He’s also stated that, if you MUST use a cassette style (drop in), use light tension and anti walk pins as they won’t rotate.

Most of the higher quality cassette triggers come with anti walk pins. But from what I’ve experienced, their quality is lacking.
 
Sunday , after 14 years of use my RRA NM 2 stage triger got all wonky amd crunchy.
Csn you believe it!
Well turns out the trigger is fine but a decent size piece of carbon found its way down there. Almost had to buy a trigger

I dont know the round count on this trigger but its 5k plus over the years. Its not my most used lower.
 
This seems to answer the question quite definitively.
most good drop-in triggers have either springs or tightening screws that press into the floor and make it sit solid and not move around. some designs are simply not good and will require anti-walk pins to secure the whole trigger body in place. i think cheaper rise triggers are such, and some others, and they should simply be avoided.
a normal 2 piece trigger needs nothing of such crap.
 
Sunday , after 14 years of use my RRA NM 2 stage triger got all wonky amd crunchy.
Csn you believe it!
Well turns out the trigger is fine but a decent size piece of carbon found its way down there. Almost had to buy a trigger

I dont know the round count on this trigger but its 5k plus over the years. Its not my most used lower.

Good ol’ RRA NM.

Do you ever check its pull weight? I had heard a long time ago that while they were a great value, they would lighten up over time and get below the Highpower weight floor. Not an issue for someone who doesn’t compete in those matches though.
 
Good ol’ RRA NM.

Do you ever check its pull weight? I had heard a long time ago that while they were a great value, they would lighten up over time and get below the Highpower weight floor. Not an issue for someone who doesn’t compete in those matches though.
I can run my trigger gauge on it later. Although I find when you use the NRA CMP# trigger pull weight set. It’s more forgiving than say one of the aftermarket pull trigger tools. The particular trigger I have is the hard chrome so I don’t know if that helps with the wear and tear.
 
The only drop in I have experience with is the Elftmann service trigger. Its very well made and adjustable for weight. 4 to 7lbs.. It was a tad creepy but it comes apart so i touched up the engagement (just a light pass with the finest stone) and the creep is gone. My only complaint is that there is no overtravel adjustment.
 
Holy crap that was easy to do. And that trigger is nice. Light and breaks like glass. Finally, not a bunch of gritty take up and a crappy break.

And looking at my old trigger, not impressed. Looks like everything is just stamped. Nothing is polished. I guess I expected more from S&W Volunteer line.
 
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