AR Uppers

DarthRevan

DarthRevan

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Is there any benefit to say a DD or BCM upper vs a cheap-o bargain brand?
And how much of a difference is there between barrels aside from HBARs being more resistant to heat damage?
 
I have a palmetto state arms PTAC built barrel. They have had quality control issues (PTAC not PSA), but mine shoots very well. Not sub MOA but it shoots better than I can. The money I saved I used on ammo and accessories. After all whats the point of an AR if you dont put tons of tacticool shit on it right ?? [wink]
 
I'm not sure if I just haven't shot enough, if its the complete upper, or what else, but I feel like I shoot better groups with my pistol than my rifle.
And if you refer to my other thread, I want to slap a tacticool optic on it :p
 
The barrel is arguably the most important part of the rifle, and the difference in quality from company to company varies widely. I've been pretty impressed with the quality to price ratio of the BCM barrels.
 
I just received my PSA premium upper yesterday. It has a chrome lined barrel made by FN and the price was great(fathers day sale). Check them out over the 4th. They'll probably have some good sales going
 
ColdDayInHell said:
That and the BCG (heart) so to speak.
Click to expand...

It's not even really the bcg that's important . But the bolt it self.
If the upper is in spec and the bolt carrier slides freely your good to go no matter what the brand is (taking into account it's staked correctly. My nm bcg has less slop then my piston bcg , but that slop only effects how dirty it will run.

What effects your grouping the most is a good barrel and the the bolt lock up.
I've been debating getting one of the matched bolt and barrel combos for my dmr build so I can get the most out of the rifle.
Figure I'd be better off buying a barrel with a matched bolt since I do have a carrier with out a bolt for this gun already.
 
My only input..... since I got my NM service rifle with wilson barrel on it my milspec A2 gets little love.
define what you expect to do
"hit" a 18"x20" target from 0-300 yards- I think all but the worst barrels should be able to do this?
or shoot some out tight groups from 0-600 yds?

In the past 8 years I went from just wanting a carbine for SHTF to full blown tactifool odd cals and such...to finally after all that end up with A2 rifles.

as mentioned the biggest cost saving for manufacture would be the barrel.....
just because FN makes a barrel doesnt make it a great barrel just good enough for milspec maybe
 
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The difference is sub MOA groups versus 2-4inch groups at 100 yards depending how "bottom of the barrel" you go. Yeah terrible pun.

New my BCM would shoot 3/4" groups for me. Now after about 16,000 rounds I'm going to replace it and it's shooting 2" groups at 100, just barely larger than one of the brand new PTACs I have.
 
Depends on your intended purpose. I usually buy parts from reputable brands to avoid QC issues. There are a few things that lesser companies frequently do "wrong," but even then a staked gas key or taper pinned gas block isnt too important if its not a life or death rifle.

Mike

Sent from my cell phone with a tiny keyboard and large thumbs...
 
crazymjb said:
Depends on your intended purpose. I usually buy parts from reputable brands to avoid QC issues. There are a few things that lesser companies frequently do "wrong," but even then a staked gas key or taper pinned gas block isnt too important if its not a life or death rifle.

Mike

Sent from my cell phone with a tiny keyboard and large thumbs...
Click to expand...

Agreed. Plus it's really not hard to stake a gas key or install taper pins in a gas block on your own. I'm more concerned with the quality of the key parts than with the assembly. (Generally I assemble everything from parts anyway. More control that way.)
 
I'm running a BCM middy, with a BCM BCG and BCM Comp Mod 1. I'm really, really impressed with it - sweet shooter!
 
warwickben said:
It's not even really the bcg that's important . But the bolt it self.
If the upper is in spec and the bolt carrier slides freely your good to go no matter what the brand is (taking into account it's staked correctly. My nm bcg has less slop then my piston bcg , but that slop only effects how dirty it will run.

What effects your grouping the most is a good barrel and the the bolt lock up.
I've been debating getting one of the matched bolt and barrel combos for my dmr build so I can get the most out of the rifle.
Figure I'd be better off buying a barrel with a matched bolt since I do have a carrier with out a bolt for this gun already.
Click to expand...

Eh what do you know, shut up Ben [laugh]
 
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ColdDayInHell said:
Troy [puke].

I'd rather buy an AK than pay anything for a Troy.

- - - Updated - - -

Or just get a stripped upper and upper parts kit+ White Mountain barrel. Unreal precision machining and I built my upper for around $230-250.
Click to expand...

Well I wasn't going to jump into the boycott tangent, but yeah I'm avoiding them now too. Which sucks because they make awesome BUISs and the new mags are decent.
 
warwickben said:
You own a ak .......
Click to expand...

Well yeah [laugh]

xtry51 said:
Well I wasn't going to jump into the boycott tangent, but yeah I'm avoiding them now too. Which sucks because they make awesome BUISs and the new mags are decent.
Click to expand...
No tangent, I want no gov bullshit surrounding my rifle. Let alone soaked in the blood of innocent civilians. But that's a whole other topic of course.

Ya they have nice rails, it sucks. PMAG or GTFO.

retroLS1 said:
Do you mean Green Mountain or White Oak Armament?
Click to expand...

Both together= best barrels in existence [rofl]

Sorry I meant Green Mountain. Been thinking about my NH place in the White Mts too much I guess.
 
mac1911 said:
... just because FN makes a barrel doesnt make it a great barrel just good enough for milspec maybe
Click to expand...

How come sometimes "milspec" is the highest quality, what to aim for in parts; and other times, it is the lowest, (low bidder)?
 
Coyote33 said:
How come sometimes "milspec" is the highest quality, what to aim for in parts; and other times, it is the lowest, (low bidder)?
Click to expand...

Milspec usually places a priority on durability and reliability as opposed to precision and tight tolerances. Depending on the part, you may want a different balance.
 
Coyote33 said:
How come sometimes "milspec" is the highest quality, what to aim for in parts; and other times, it is the lowest, (low bidder)?
Click to expand...

Milspec means good enough for gov work...... good / bad / just good enough you can decide.... I have been looking for the link to the military looks for in its accuracy standards but my computer skills suck and I can never seem to find things more than a few times.
Between the m855 ammo and axmilspec m4 I think 4moa was good enough.. ?
 
Mill spec just means the company can produce the product in tolerance cheap. I used to work for a military contractor ....
Saying some thing is mill spec just means the parts is in spec and made from and coated with what they want .
No different then building any thing else to print.

The only time mill spec matters is the buffer tube. All other parts are built to work together for ar15's. People often think a part labeled mill spec is better. But there are better coatings, metal etc you could use . Would function in the gun 100% but would be to mill specs . All about the $$$$


1911's can be "mill spec " but do to the design not every thing can be swapped between each gun.
 

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