Bushmaster Jamming, why?

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I've got a new Bushmaster .223.

I've fired it three times now, for a total of maybe 200 rounds.

I'm using Wolf steel case ammo, and getting constant jamming when I fire, maybe three or four jams in a 20 round magazine.

What it looks like is that the fired shell doesn't pull all the way out to eject, and the extractor seems to let go of it, and as the bolt returns to battery, it tries to load another round, and that jams on the empty shell sticking out of the chamber.

At first I was running the gun pretty "dry". Yesterday I lubed it up a LOT, and reduced the number of jams, but out of 100 shots, it jammed at least 7-10 times.

I'm thinking it needs a break in period, but do any of you have any other ideas? I'm using the Wolf ammo I bought two years ago (non-lacquer), because I bought it for $160 per 1000. I don't want to use my more expensive brass cased ammo right now just to break it in.

I've heard plenty of people say they have used the Wolf ammo successfully in a new Bushmaster with no trouble. I'm new to this AR stuff. The one I had in Vietnam was well broken in when I got it, and I didn't have any problems as long as I kept it clean and took care with the magazines and loading.

Any help or comments would be appreciated.

Thanks... Bill
 
I have run about 800 or so rounds of Wolf through my Bushy and yet to have one problem. Maybe I am just lucky.

I say break down the AR again and give her a nice once over with some CLP - thats all I have ever used to clean and maintain mine.

Next is to buy another brand ammo and shoot it to see if you have the same problem. Atleast then you can be certain its not the Wolf ammo.
 
Get the barrel hot and some some brass cases through. Look for tar like build up on the brass cases. If you see the buildup on the first couple of cases ejected your gonna have to go the distance with the brushes and cleaner. I had the same problem with my M&P last week using new wolf.

That brass will also help clean the crud out where your jamming as well. To much lube will also help the crud to build up as well.
 
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I had the same problem with my Olly where the round would be half out, and the next round trying to chamber. I was shooting wolf also. This was a brand new upper (I have no clue who manufactured it because it came with the Olly) that was never fired. The gun would fire a few rounds of wolf, and then jam. Got to the point where a spent casing was stuck in the chamber and I had to call it a day. When I took it all apart the extractor wasn't broken or bent, but the holes that the pin slides threw the extractor to hold it in place had become elongated. I replaced the extractor, and haven't had a problem since.
 
bad ammo
dry
accu-wedge
loose gas key
bad magazine spring
wrong buffer spring / buffer
wrong extractor insert
bad extractor spring

I would bet that it is a combination of the first 3.
 
For what it's worth, I was having similar problems with my Colt Sporter and several types of ammo, including Wolf. Probably one extraction failure every 10-15 rounds. I replaced the springs and followers in all of my preban (stupid, stupid MA) mags, and 300+ rounds later I haven't had a single jam.
 
Make sure you are using a quality mag (mil surplus ect...) and not a cheap USA Mags type magazine.

I would cycle a bunch of rounds using the factory 10 rounder and see how it runs or try another magazine.

As others have said, I don't feel Wolf is very good ammo. I refuse to use it in my AR. Plus since the rifle is brand new it may need to break in a bit.
 
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Change the ammo, and use some good stuff.

Clean the gun the way a Marine would, making sure to keep the bolt well lubed.

I am a big believer in using a high quality lube and lots of it.
 
I am more apt to trust wolf ammo quality than bushmaster uppers. I have seen more bushmasters that dont run than anything else lately. I have run 10k plus of wolf through my 10.5 LMT upper and can count the problems I have had on one hand.
 
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I have a Bushmaster upper and it too chokes on Wolf. I stopped using Wolf ammo and all the problems went away. I shoot Black Hills and Privi without any issues.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I'll try a few of your suggestions. I don't know how to tell if my extractor spring or pins are worn or elongated, but with the gun being new from the factory two years ago, and only now being fired, I doubt that's it, but I don't know for sure.

Cross-X, can I clean it like an Army Ranger instead? I don't like the way Marines clean their guns. Taking that CLP in their mouth and blowing it down the barrel makes me gag. I know those leather brains... er... Leathernecks do it all the time, but I prefer a patch and ramrod and then a spray bottle of CLP!!! [smile]

Moderator, thanks for moving this to the correct thread.
 
I've heard that breaking in a new AR using Wolf ammo causing this. Go with better ammunition for now, and see if that helps. Once you've got this thing running good, then maybe if you feel brave try using up those Wolf cartridges.
 
I am more apt to trust wolf ammo quality than bushmaster uppers. I have seen more bushmasters that dont run than anything else lately. I have run 10k plus of wolf through my 10.5 LMT upper and can count the problems I have had on one hand.

Some have had good luck with it. My AR's are the only guns I don't use it in. I think of it kind of like running regular unleaded in a high performance motorycycle engine. It may work well or it may not. I like to run super (or at least brass cased surplus) because I know it works. [wink]

That said - I have never had a problem with any of my Bushmaster rifles in the 6+ years I've had them. I would buy another in a heartbeat.
 
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I've read some bad stuff about the cheap Wolf. Some people just get a bad batch. Check for your primers popping out, I have heard of high pressure problems with them! Even a quick check with some better more expensive ammo will tell you if thats the problem.
 
I have a Bushmaster, which has been known to stop running with Wolf ammo. It seemed to be when I shot a lot of the stuff, and the barrel and chamber were hot. I had to whack the butt against the ground to get the cartridge to extract at all.

This was the older Wolf ammo, with the icky red goo around the bullet. I think the newer polymer coated stuff is less gooey.
 
you got to clean after each shot for the first 50, then after ever 10 for 50. then your good togo. That is the proper break in.

my new bush has no troubles at all.
 
you got to clean after each shot for the first 50, then after ever 10 for 50. then your good togo. That is the proper break in.

my new bush has no troubles at all.

That should be for barrel break in if you want to do it right. It shouldn't effect the extraction of spent rounds from the chamber. I still think he has a problem with the extractor, but as a lot of people said. The mags make a big difference too.
 
One important note: Do you have a "Match" chamber in .223 or a "NATO" chamber in 5.56?

Match grade chambers are tighter in tolerance. Military chambers are generally looser. Wolf ammo hates match chambers.

Case in point. My Colt Sporter with a tight match upper chokes on Wolf.
My Buddy's Rock River with a military chamber eats Wolf all day long without any problem.
 
Bushmaster

Here is my 2 cents....When you have the bolt out, inspect the extractor. Just make sure it is moving side to side. Very easy to take apart as well. The extractor is not under a lot of pressure. You can hold the extractor, push the pin out and look underneath. Also check the face of the bolt (where the casing sits). There is a small spring loaded push rod (forget the technical name) push on this to make sure it will sit flush with the bolt face. This is a PAIN to remove. This will fly away and you may never find it. And when you do find it, you will need a second person and a bench block to re-install. You can push the ass end of a round (spent or not) into the bolt face. You should be able to seat it by hand. Do this and look at the extractor claw to make sure it is grabbing....Also, get rid of the Wolf...
 
you got to clean after each shot for the first 50, then after ever 10 for 50. then your good togo. That is the proper break in.

my new bush has no troubles at all.

I just got a Bushmaster DCM this past week, and the break in instructions shipped with it said to shoot "no more than" 20 rounds before complete clean and de-copper for the first 60 rounds fired. It seems that they believe that a much less rigorous break in is needed then you do.

~Droid
 
I just got a Bushmaster DCM this past week, and the break in instructions shipped with it said to shoot "no more than" 20 rounds before complete clean and de-copper for the first 60 rounds fired. It seems that they believe that a much less rigorous break in is needed then you do.

~Droid

this is what i did to my bushy. it was in the manual of my cousins DPMS. what ever works for you.

As for this guy, if he did not break-in the rifle it may not function properly?
 
"This guy" did break in the rifle as directed... at least as well as Bushmaster recommended. I still haven't put more than 200 rounds through it.

I bought the gun and cleaned it thoroughly and lubed the barrel and "works" lightly. I worked the action several hundred times by hand.

I fired the first 20, and completely cleaned the gun.

put another 40 rounds through, and cleaned it again.

Then this week I re cleaned the bore, chamber, bolt and bolt carrier, and all lower moving parts and added recommended lube. While there was some improvement, the next 140 rounds, with intermittent lube to the bolt, barrel and chamber were still tough.

This isn't a target rifle that I need one minute of clean accuracy. This is a shoot em up, make some noise, play with it until I build my own type AR with the two lowers I have on order from our group buy. I don't think cleaning after each round would make a difference. Obviously, YMMV.

Big Daddy, it is a 5.56 NATO chamber, with M4 feed lips and Colt AR15 20 round mags, loaded with 18 rounds, that work flawlessly in several other EBRs. I even used Jeff Coopers trick from the Second World War and lubed the top round of each mag to help with the steel cases, like they used to do in combat with the .45 Auto with steel cases.
 
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