Coated bullets - Glock

Only problem I've had is dry lube crud that builds up inside comps. Otherwise, a great value.
No problems in any pistols I've used including Glock and Kahrs using polygonal rifling.
 
Since this thread was first started, I have tried a whole bunch of different coated bullets in my G34. I can't find a better deal than Precision Bullets -- has anyone found anything cheaper, once you include shipping? TBH I can't even buy cast lead bullets for less than the coated Precisions, haha.

I'm running them with Unique. I was getting a weird torquing recoil with TG.
 
Since this thread was first started, I have tried a whole bunch of different coated bullets in my G34. I can't find a better deal than Precision Bullets -- has anyone found anything cheaper, once you include shipping? TBH I can't even buy cast lead bullets for less than the coated Precisions, haha.

I'm running them with Unique. I was getting a weird torquing recoil with TG.

I haven't compared prices lately, but I always go with Ibejiheads because they are so consistent and Alex sponsors USPSA matches.
 
I haven't compared prices lately, but I always go with Ibejiheads because they are so consistent and Alex sponsors USPSA matches.

I go with Ibejiheads because it is what the cool kids are using. Yes, I realize that is lame.

I shot a lot of precisions and got sick of the smoke. I went to plated and jacketed. I got cheap again and tried Ibeji because all the cool kids shot them and I was hoping for less smoke. They smoke just as much as the precisions. I like they fact that Alex sponsors USPSA matches but Precisions are cheaper, ship a LOT faster, and they hit your card when they ship, not when you order. Your hands get a little black when you reload and load your mags though.
 
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I just want to know why some people are gas checking coated bullets. I thought the coating eliminated the need for gas checks.
 
I just want to know why some people are gas checking coated bullets. I thought the coating eliminated the need for gas checks.

I believe that the bullets you are referring to are for rifle loads; higher pressure and velocity.
 
Polygonal rifling works just fine with cast bullets. I have run thousands through Glocks in 45 and 40. 9mm Glocks are a different matter. I tried some .356 (industry standard) cast lead bullets in my friends G 17 and was rewarded with horrible groups and keholing at 25 yds. A switch to .357 dia bullets resulted in decent groups (4 in offhand) at 50 yds. The problem was not the bullet, but rather the fit of bullet to barrel. This will most likely be true with plated and coated bullets. You simply need the proper diameter bullet and be very careful not to over crimp and reduce bullet diameter.

This incompatibility of bullet and bore is common with lead, plated and coated bullets as they will not make sufficient contact with the rifling to pick up the necessary spin. Jacketed bullets do not suffer as much from this problem because the jacket is strong enough to pick up the necessary spin with minimal contact with the rifling.

Which crimping die and technique are you using ? Is a Lee 9mm factory crimp die going to undersize.
 
I use a Dillon taper crimping die and a relatively light crimp to avoid reducing bullet diameter. I gave up on the Lee die because it can reduce bullet diameter.
 
Which crimping die and technique are you using ? Is a Lee 9mm factory crimp die going to undersize.

I recommend flaring the case more than you would with jacketed bullets, then a light taper crimp. If you don't flare enough, you can scrape a sliver of coating when you seat the bullet.

If you must use the Lee factory crimp, it's probably worth pulling some bullets to see if they're getting damaged.
 
I recommend flaring the case more than you would with jacketed bullets, then a light taper crimp. If you don't flare enough, you can scrape a sliver of coating when you seat the bullet.

If you must use the Lee factory crimp, it's probably worth pulling some bullets to see if they're getting damaged.

+1 on the extra flaring. The effect of the Lee factory crimp die will change with the wall thickness of the brass so it is a crap shoot unless you use one type of brass exclusively. I would avoid the Lee die because its only advantage is cosmetic (removal of the "ugly bulge") vs the risk of ruining accuracy.
 
I recommend flaring the case more than you would with jacketed bullets, then a light taper crimp. If you don't flare enough, you can scrape a sliver of coating when you seat the bullet.

I have been using the DAA/Mr Bullet feeder expander insert for the Dillon powder dispenser. It creates a better shape flare that easily centers the bullet for seating. I do not use a bullet feeder, I place by hand, the inserts are available separately
 
I have been using the DAA/Mr Bullet feeder expander insert for the Dillon powder dispenser. It creates a better shape flare that easily centers the bullet for seating. I do not use a bullet feeder, I place by hand, the inserts are available separately

+1
 
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