gerrycaruso
NES Member
I'm done trying to convince anyone it's deliberate. Believe whatever you want. Ddeck22, I'll measure for the plywood tomorrow or Saturday.
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current stuff/setup was pretty decent - and the lower plank as a cover of bolts on plates also worked out great for a while, until it got shot - but, realistically, no matter what we put down there at that level - it will be eventually shredded up. only mistake we did was not using screws along the top edge to secure it to the second board in the middle, so it would not fall down when its midsection is no more.I'm done trying to convince anyone it's deliberate. Believe whatever you want. Ddeck22, I'll measure for the plywood tomorrow or Saturday.
awesome.View attachment 633459
New piece of plywood I put up today. It’s 3 smaller pieces screwed together with strapping so technically if the middle piece gets shot out just that section can be replaced. It was scrap 3/4” plywood I had and will replace as needed.
width is restricted by the hanging rod length where chains get attached to.I thought the same thing about the posts. How wide would the posts have to be positioned in order to not get significant spall? Is there room for that.
at a next work party, may be - but now it is a pita no one will go through, to redo whole setup. it is for mark to decide, anyway.Then could we get a longer hanging rod length?
It's just galvy fence post.
try to swap plates too, if it is doable, i think it would be enough, really.I will rip a piece of 3/4” plywood and screw it to the post as a sacrificial piece.
We might also try mounting the pipe back from the legs by adding a couple elbows and short lengths of pipe. Then the spall would predominantly be behind the uprights.Adding a piece of plywood to the post is a good idea but steel (which is in the shed) would last much longer. Moving the posts farther apart would be a lot of work and if they have to move more than a few inches to avoid damage, then 8 foot plywood won't be long enough.
(I haven't seen this setup, but if I can imagine grossly how this is designed)We might also try mounting the pipe back from the legs by adding a couple elbows and short lengths of pipe. Then the spall would predominantly be behind the uprights.
Right now there is plywood mounted to the posts as a scrim to disguise the chains and pipe. If the pipe were pushed backwards, I would hope it might reduce the damage from spall to the uprights (never eliminate, obviously)(I haven't seen this setup, but if I can imagine grossly how this is designed)
why wouldn't you want to move the crossbar forward of the posts?
I'd definitely let Mark decide if it's worth doing. I was basically just riffing.Backward is probably better because it would allow the plywood to remain. If the spall still hits the posts, we could make shields out of the flat stock in the shed. Mark needs to be notified first to get his approval. If this work is to be done, I'll bring some tools and help out.
Still exactly the opposite of the geometry I'm imagining.Right now there is plywood mounted to the posts as a scrim to disguise the chains and pipe. If the pipe were pushed backwards, I would hope it might reduce the damage from spall to the uprights (never eliminate, obviously)
it could be that backwards and forwards are used differently here. Perhaps if I said "towards the berm"?Still exactly the opposite of the geometry I'm imagining.
Well, that's my problem.
'Fraid not.it could be that backwards and forwards are used differently here. Perhaps if I said "towards the berm"?
Not this precise make/model,I've got a single-plate rack which is like a sawhorse made out of pipes.
I completely agree with the physics of what you're describing. Going forward would be ideal. Unfortunately, that would do away with the current ability to obscure the chains.Not this precise make/model,
but the geometry is valid:
Way above my head.I completely agree with the physics of what you're describing. Going forward would be ideal. Unfortunately, that would do away with the current ability to obscure the chains.
People who know know better than me are pretty sure it's a core from a 50. At some point, as a personal project, I'll probably put it on a mill or surface grinder and report back.Steel jacket or steel core? Lot of surplus 30-06 is steel.
i saw holes in steel plates there before, some people do shoot there with such things, and those piercing things make a good amount of damage. it is what it is.People who know know better than me are pretty sure it's a core from a 50. At some point, as a personal project, I'll probably put it on a mill or surface grinder and report back.
If I were smarter, I'd have gotten the code for that shed and replaced the bolt before we left..i saw holes in steel plates there before, some people do shoot there with such things, and those piercing things make a good amount of damage. it is what it is.
again, those bolts at plates are easily replaceable, there is plenty of them in the shed. as long as upper mounts remain intact - it is not such big of the problem.
You know who’s got that code?If I were smarter, I'd have gotten the code for that shed and replaced the bolt before we left..
As I can't change the past, I'll get that code now, so I have it for next time.