I'm so frustrated....my M&P hates me..help??

Sigtac said:
I reccomend not taking advise from just anyone as there are many good intentioned people out there who don't have the shooting thing figured out either, and further frustrate you with less than helpful advise. Good luck.
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I agree with this statement and assure you that I am not one of those people.
 
LenS said:
I forget if this was mentioned or not in this or the other thread . . .

Have you tried both Small and Medium grips? I found that the Medium seemed OK in my hand, but when I shot with both, I found that my accuracy was better with Small grips (I have small hands).

See if that makes a diff in your case.
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Yes!! Today, I switched to the small backstrap, and I did much better..
 
Day late and a dollar short, but I was going to ask the same question Len asked.

I have small hands and for me the small backstrap makes the M&P point like the finger of God. With the large backstrap the pistol simply feels wrong.
 
I was horrible with ma M&P9c and when my friend let me borrow his 1911 to try, I figured I wouldn't even hit the target. Surprisingly I had some pretty tight groups with all the mags I put through the 1911. I loaded up the M&P and was all over the place. I realized the 1911 was really thin, which made it feel really good in my hand. I then put the small grip on the M&P.....problem solved. Now for a trigger job...and in a month or two a 1911.
 
First thing is to see if it is you and the gun not working together or actually a problem with the gun.

Have somebody else who you know is good try the gun. If she can't hit the broadside of a barn either, send it back to smith to have them look at it.

It may not be you.

Second, to check for a flinch, you need to buy orange plastic dummy rounds from Brownells. Load them into the mag with the regular rounds. You won't know when one goes into the chamber, but when you pull the trigger nothing will happen.

Its the only way to simulate the revolver training trick of leaving one empty place in a revolver's cylinder.

Don
p.s. you can do this also with an AR type rifle. loading a dummy round in the mag will simulate a misfire. Loading an empty case in the mag will result in a simulated double feed resulting in a jam. Again, the dummy rounds are available at brownells.
 
Re trigger job for an M&P.

The frustrating thing about sending your M&P out for a trigger job is that you spend more on shipping than you do on the actual job.

If you are handy, burwell gunsmithing has a DIY instruction book on how to do a trigger job on an M&P. I haven't done it on my .45, but lots of people are happy with the results.

He'll do the job for you for about $70, but you'll spend another $100 on 2 ways of shipping.

Google Burwell M&P DIY and you should find it. I heard he was thinking of taking it down for liability reasons. If somebody wants it and can't find it, let me know on this thread and I'll send it to you.

Or better yet, if anyone can host it, let me know and I'll send it to you.
Also, here are a couple of things about M&P triggers.
1) stock, new, they are terrible
2) they get better when used. My .45 at about 1000 rds is much better than new
3) m&P triggers are VERY tunable. a friend of mine has both a 9 and a .45 that have been done and they are worlds different. smoother, lighter, with a much shorter reset.

Don
 
jenlynn724 said:
I have also come to the conclusion that I don't like the M&P trigger, even after an awesome trigger job by Greg Derr.. I refuse to quit though, so I will practice, until I outshoot my husband.. ;)
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I like the Larocca trigger job alot better then the Derr Trigger job. They are both good, they are just very different. If I got the Derr trigger job I would ask him to not eliminate the over travel. For people that have been shooting for years with over travel in their triggers, it takes some getting used to. I could not do it well. My 40c with the ML Trigger hits very well.
 
Before you start spending money or doing a lot of work, check the length of pull. We had someone at a class earlier this year who purchased an M&P because it fit his hand nicely. Watching closely, we discovered that while the grip circumference and shape was well suited to his hand, the length of pull was too long for his hand, forcing him to rotate the grip in his hand to get good contact with the trigger. This was throwing his shots off significantly. He switched to a borrowed gun for the rest of the class, and, although the grip didn't fit his hand as comfortably, the shorter trigger pull resulted in much better results.

Ken
 
KMaurer said:
Before you start spending money or doing a lot of work, check the length of pull.
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Wise words, although presuming the 9 and 40 are very similar to my 45, the trigger needs to be lightened regardless... The pull on my shiny new M&P45 goes something like this:

1. squeeze
2. squeeze
3. squeeze
4. squeeze (really? Not yet?)
5. squeeze (hey, this kinda hurts...)
6. squeeze (WTF? When is thing going to fire?)
7. squeeze (I'd be dead by now if I were shooting a threat)
8. squeeze (I'm getting thirsty...)
9. squeeze (should I give up?)
10. squeeze (is there a safety on this thing I forgot about?)
11. BANG
 
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PistolPete said:
I just realized something else. You have a compact gun with the M&P. Compacts are MUCH more difficult to shoot than a full sized gun. You get much more felt recoil, a shorter sight radius, lighter weight all of which make the gun harder to shoot. This is why most experienced shooters will tell newer shooters to NEVER buy a compact for a first gun.
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I SHOOT A MP 40COMPACT ....GUN CONTROL AND GETTING THE RIGHT GRIP AND PRACTICE ....VERY COMFORTABLE AND GREGG DERR DID A GREAT JOB OR THE TRIGGER .....IT'S NOT ALWAYS THE ARROW
 
Mustangtjb said:
Could someone pls reply with the contact info for some of these guys that do trigger jobs or is there a place I can look here at NES ?

Thx,
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Mike LaRocca, Larocca Gun works, Dave Santurri, santurriltd.com, Greg Derr, Derr precision. All great gunsmiths, all do great work!
 
Greg Derr is a paid sponsor on NES, so he has a sub-forum. Using the Search feature you'll find plenty of info on each, including contact info . . . or you can use Google and it'll come up as well.
 
M&P trigger finger placement

OK folks, thanks for the kind words. After working on many M&P's I have to admit that they require a slight modification in trigger technique. The long draw of the trigger is like have a two stage trigger- the first stage accounts for about 3/4 the total trigger weight. The final 1/4 breaks the trigger. You ned to have more of your finger into the trigger than you may think- at least the joint of the trigger finger. Practice taking out the first stage quickly,hold on the second as you perfect sight alignment. The final bit of pressure will break the shot cleanly. Many shooters come in the shop complaining about the gun shooting left, I find this is more due to side pressure(right handed) on the trigger blade. I do recommend dry firing just before live firing- it will not harm the gun.

I've had a few occasions to hand shooters an unloaded gun on the range and ask them to shoot a shot( they thought it was loaded) low and behold there was a lot of trigger snatching. This training is called "ball and dummy training" by the way and is accepted widely in the military.

Each type of gun has it's own "special" feel. Take the Beretta 92F for instance- I just can't get my stubby finger on the trigger right for the first DA shot. I have to adapt my grip to come around the forestrap more to allow my finger on the trigger pad. Not my favorite gun, but I change my technique for it. The M&P is accurate given the right technique and bit of training.

Greg
 
Similar

Hey I had a similar nasty start with my M&P 9C. I noticed two things. First was it really favors a 6 o'clock aim position. Aim a few inches below your kill zone and that should bring your groups up on target.

Second is really hard to explain and it had to do with grip. The contoured grips are REALLY nice in "my" hand - but much different than Glock, PPS, Sigma, PPK's that I shot normally. I chock it up to muscle memory and had to simply "adjust" to the new type of grip. After about 400 rounds or so though I grouped where I wanted. Maybe change your backstrap?

Take 'er slow...start fresh like you're just learning to shoot all over again. Stance, breath control, site allign, trigger pull, follow through one shot at a time. After each shot, assess and adjust until you get consistent. Then slowly ramp up your speed to where you are with your other guns.

It's a honey of a gun IMHO - but yeah it did take me off guard at first.

Good luck!
 
I don't like how they feel. The mag kept falling out because of my grip. This has never happened on any other pistol for me.
 
ive tried teaching this to my mother, its all in your grip. She hated my M&P and i love it. The MA trigger def doesnt help. Its also possible that it just isnt the gun for you. It is a pretty big gun. if you can shoot other guns well i would just say try something else. Glock 23 would be a good substitute. 40 cal, easy to grip, easy to shoot
 
Zombieoutfitters said:
Hey I had a similar nasty start with my M&P 9C. I noticed two things. First was it really favors a 6 o'clock aim position. Aim a few inches below your kill zone and that should bring your groups up on target.

Second is really hard to explain and it had to do with grip. The contoured grips are REALLY nice in "my" hand - but much different than Glock, PPS, Sigma, PPK's that I shot normally. I chock it up to muscle memory and had to simply "adjust" to the new type of grip. After about 400 rounds or so though I grouped where I wanted. Maybe change your backstrap?

Take 'er slow...start fresh like you're just learning to shoot all over again. Stance, breath control, site allign, trigger pull, follow through one shot at a time. After each shot, assess and adjust until you get consistent. Then slowly ramp up your speed to where you are with your other guns.

It's a honey of a gun IMHO - but yeah it did take me off guard at first.

Good luck!
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I agree with this completely, I recently upgraded from the M&P 9c to the .40c and I love every second of it, I definitely notice that I have to aim a little lower than the target but I feel it's a combination of the polymer grip and the fact it's a .40 causing a little lift (which I am working on).
 

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