Looking ahead to first wheelgun. 686 Plus vs. 686 SSR

StevieP

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The 686 Plus has a 5" barrel and seven-round capacity.

686 SSR has 4" barrel and six round capacity.

What else is the difference? Wood grip (SSR) vs. Synthetic (686+)

Why does the SSR have a higher list price? Different sights??

I don't do IDPA, etc. This would be truly a range toy, home defense, eventually hand it down to my grandchildren (investment? Pah!).

SSR Description:
SKU: 178012

Pro Series - Stock Service Revolver

• Chamfered Charge Holes
• Custom Barrel with Recessed Precision Crown
• Bossed Mainspring
• Ergonomic Grip to Force High-Hand Hold

Completing the line between main production and the Performance Center, the Smith & Wesson Pro Series represents the next step from standard models. These firearms are offered with a variety of enhancements yet still remain true to "stock." Bringing competition specifications and features to factory models, the Pro Series offer that ready-to-go package while still maintaining production line integrity.

686 Plus

SKU: 178038

Pro Series

• Cylinder Cut for Moon Clips

Completing the line between main production and the Performance Center, the Smith & Wesson Pro Series represents the next step from standard models. These firearms are offered with a variety of enhancements yet still remain true to "stock." Bringing competition specifications and features to factory models, the Pro Series offer that ready-to-go package while still maintaining production line integrity.

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Are these things worth more money, with a shorter barrel and less capacity?

• Chamfered Charge Holes
• Custom Barrel with Recessed Precision Crown
• Bossed Mainspring
• Ergonomic Grip to Force High-Hand Hold
 
HKS makes speeloaders:
http://www.hksspeedloaders.com/SpeedloaderPage.html

Talk to me about thin walls prone to cracking, please! How prevalent is this issue? How many rounds would it take to break one of these guns??

Yes HKS.
I probably used them 3 or 4 times before the walls started showing cracks. The rims of the cartridges will get hung up and not fall out. Rendered pretty useless and un repairable in a very short time. I just stopped using them.
I considered having the cylinder cut to accept moon clips because yes they make 7 shot versions as well but never got around to it cause 9X out of 10 I'd just grab my 625 and be off to the match. The 686+ turned into a range gun.

ETA: the speed loaders cracked not the gun itself. That's fine. I love it. It probably has the best factory trigger of all my revos.
 
ETA: the speed loaders cracked not the gun itself. That's fine. I love it. It probably has the best factory trigger of all my revos.

so the walls of the loaders are thin, not the gun cylinder walls.

Phew. OK. That makes sense, and helps.

What about the other differences? Are the extra features of the SSR worthwhile? I don't do IDPA now, but maybe someday....
 
Well I'm not too familiar with the model but I can say that if the cylinder extractor rod has the additional detent lock on the end then it should hold up longer to full house .357 rounds. Recessed crown, better accuracy? Other than that I'm not sure.
 
Smith, Ruger....toss up. Both built well, trigger is about the same after breakin. Both will take full boat handloads as long as you can stand it. Get both.
 
The 686 Talo version is sweet looking - here's a photo of mine that I bought off a fellow NES'r. The previous owner had a bunch of neat custom work done as well as a nice trigger job. Shoots like a dream in SA or DA.

S&W 686 #4.jpg
 
Smith, Ruger....toss up. Both built well, trigger is about the same after breakin. Both will take full boat handloads as long as you can stand it. Get both.

Have to disagree on the trigger. Both can be smooth. Ruger is probably more consistently smooth from the factory. Smith is a toss up. Depends on who put it together. However the Ruger's pull is waaaay longer which in turn causes a longer duration cylinder index compared to the Smith. Both are good guns though.
 
I got your first wheel gun right here.

smith_625.jpg
 
don't rule out a 627 or 327.
personally i'm a fan of the N-frame
i love my 686+ 4" but the N-frame 8 shot models just win it everytime for me. YMMV.

- - - Updated - - -

I got your first wheel gun right here.

smith_625.jpg

The 327 TRR8/R8 is a great gun but there are some drawbacks that come with the scandium frame design. the heat-shield needs occasional maintenance. it's an awesome gun if you need something lightweight. however if weight isn't an major consideration then i think the other 627 models are superior. again YMMV just my 2c.
 
I have a 686+, 3" Talo Edition. Had Mike LaRocca semi-bob the hammer, polish and radius the trigger, smooth out the action so it breaks like glass and give it his custom stainless steel polishing.
My first revolver and one I'll never sell...
image.jpg
 
I have a 686+, 3" Talo Edition. Had Mike LaRocca semi-bob the hammer, polish and radius the trigger, smooth out the action so it breaks like glass and give it his custom stainless steel polishing.
My first revolver and one I'll never sell...
View attachment 140924

This is my next purchase Not a big fan of 4 or 5 inch bbl revolvers. 3" inches is perfect for carry and just about anything else you'll need.
 
Why only sold on 357 and not the bigger brother 44? My first revolver is a 44, I still laugh as I shoot it. Such a fun range toy.
 
Why only sold on 357 and not the bigger brother 44? My first revolver is a 44, I still laugh as I shoot it. Such a fun range toy.

I like that it could shoot .38 special, too. I want my wife or other range guests to have an enjoyable experience without the .44's recoil.

A revolver will be my next gun. A lever action carbine chambered for the same caliber will be my next next gun.
 
Are these things worth more money, with a shorter barrel and less capacity?

• Chamfered Charge Holes
• Custom Barrel with Recessed Precision Crown
• Bossed Mainspring
• Ergonomic Grip to Force High-Hand Hold

Short answer; no. Of those two, I would go for the 686+ 8 days a week unless I was going to shoot IDPA and needed one revolver for everything. Both use the quick change front sight. The extra weight and inch of barrel on the plus will help tame a full house .357. And here's a secret - the plus also has the "Custom Barrel with Recessed Precision Crown" (which really isn't very precision) and what passes for chamfered charge holes these days - a chamfered extractor star. May come with a bossed mainspring too - if not, I've got a handful and will send you one for a couple bucks.

I will say I don't find much if any difference between modern production, Pro, and PC triggers despite the marketing crap they feed you. They're all better than a Ruger out of the box and great with a little work done with a light hand.

By the way, if you want to get the SSR cut for moonclips it'll run you about $150, and probably lower the value of the gun. That's real value for the plus vs marketing speak.

If you can save the extra scratch get the 627 PC -I'd skip right over the 627 with the 4" barrel unless you plan on shooting competition, and even then the shorter sight radius may hurt as much as the extra round helps in most games.
 
I like that it could shoot .38 special, too. I want my wife or other range guests to have an enjoyable experience without the .44's recoil.

A revolver will be my next gun. A lever action carbine chambered for the same caliber will be my next next gun.

I think a 44 is just a range toy if you don't reload. I've still got a box of 38 rounds of 'mild' Federal 44 Mag ammo somewhere. I couldn't bring myself to put more than 12 down range. The gun has seen a steady diet of 44 Russians loaded light and heavy, but may never see a 44 mag again unless I run into a bear.
 
I'd also check on the model 66. The new model has a few design improvements to make it stand up better to a lot of 357 shooting. I personally prefer the K frames (models 10, 13, 15, 65, 66 etc) to the L frames (586, 686 etc). Any Smith or Ruger will serve you well. Pick up a few at a shop and see which one feels the best to you.
 
HKS makes speeloaders: http://www.hksspeedloaders.com/SpeedloaderPage.html Talk to me about thin walls prone to cracking, please! How prevalent is this issue? How many rounds would it take to break one of these guns??

HKS are slowloaders and they absolutely suck. You want Safariland comp IIs or comp IIs.

If I was getting another revolver, I would get a 627 - 8 shot using moon clips.
 
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Phew. OK. That makes sense, and helps. What about the other differences? Are the extra features of the SSR worthwhile? I don't do IDPA now, but maybe someday....

If you want to do IDPA some day, you could do that with the 6 shot SSR, but not the 7 shot 686 plus.
 
I'd also check on the model 66. The new model has a few design improvements to make it stand up better to a lot of 357 shooting. I personally prefer the K frames (models 10, 13, 15, 65, 66 etc) to the L frames (586, 686 etc). Any Smith or Ruger will serve you well. Pick up a few at a shop and see which one feels the best to you.

Indeed. I prefer the balance of the K-frame over the L-frame.
 
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