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they where issued in 308/7.62 BUT we know how cmp rules are.Nice project and relatively quickly done, as far as these things tend to go. Good to hear that the bore cleans easily. Now all you need is a Star of David roll mark on the receiver. I would think that an Israeli Mauser would be kosher for CMP.![]()
I'm pretty sure you want bare metal to do the brazing. You could always blue it first and then buff off the blue in the are the sight will suit.Newb questions for a similar project, new Walther Lothar barrel for cheap Swede Mauser #2:
Propane torch and brass punch to remove sight base?
What solder to reinstall sight base?
Reinstall base after or before the cold blue for the whole barrel?
Might do for cheap Swede #1- I just need to figure out which one is worthy of preserving the most and rebarrel the other.
When I pulled the sights off the original barrel it looked like there was no attempt to remove blue. I dont know if they blued the entire barrel and sights assembled or not.Newb questions for a similar project, new Walther Lothar barrel for cheap Swede Mauser #2:
Propane torch and brass punch to remove sight base?
What solder to reinstall sight base?
Reinstall base after or before the cold blue for the whole barrel?
Might do for cheap Swede #1- I just need to figure out which one is worthy of preserving the most and rebarrel the other.
That's pretty good shooting at 10 yards. Wonder how it will do at 100?Little UPDATE
Decided to try a reduced load.
125 TNT 15 grains of TrailBoss
WAG on velocity 1700fps or so
Should be a fun load for Vintage
I know 3 shots does not exactly tell all but I can safely say that I can usually get a indication with quick tests.
View attachment 542207Same target same bullet BUT 35 grains H4895 …. I did not pull that high shot.View attachment 542208
10 yards is even worse I cant see the target clearly at all from 10 yards!That's pretty good shooting at 10 yards. Wonder how it will do at 100?
Nice work. Guess I should get off my ass and work on the Swede rebarrel project.
Yeah, yeah- just poking fun. I think the problem with all those 4895 light loads is case fill. I have a set of reloads w/ 110's and 4895. I think i'll pull them and try TB.10 yards is even worse I cant see the target clearly at all from 10 yards!
With my shooting RX really f***s with that sub 30 yard target clarity…. f***ing eyes!
Wait maybe tou got the wrong goggles on!
View attachment 542588
I know getting fill to capacity is supposed to help but when I use 2400 for the cast loads its very surprising how consistent over the crony they where.Yeah, yeah- just poking fun. I think the problem with all those 4895 light loads is case fill. I have a set of reloads w/ 110's and 4895. I think i'll pull them and try TB.
Did you use lead shims or some other shim material for the barrel and/or the receiver? I picked up one of these on a discount code & it appears to be a solid unit-I know getting fill to capacity is supposed to help but when I use 2400 for the cast loads its very surprising how consistent over the crony they where.
I used oak blocks with RosinDid you use lead shims or some other shim material for the barrel and/or the receiver? I picked up one of these on a discount code & it appears to be a solid unit-
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It's quite a bit larger than it looks in the pic. Karma workbench from @TrashcanDan is solid enough to mount it. I have an action wrench on order. Should fit small ring Mauser.
For folks following this thread, I saw Mac's cold blue job on this barrel. Looks great and 'right' for the Mauser. Will be doing the same for a Lothar Walther barrel going on my roughest Swede.