Nickel plated brass for reloading?

[Lugnut]

Is there any problem with reusing these cases? It might be a silly question but I've seen people selling cases and say things like "only a few nickel cases in a batch" or something like that. I was told they are plated mostly on defensive rounds to help the feeding into the chambers- but that wouldn't make complete sense since many of my .38 special revolver defensive rounds are also nickel.

 

[Dick]

I have a bunch of nickel-plated .357 brass that I've been reloading for about 30 years.

 

[Adam_MA]

There is no issue what so ever using nickle plated brass for reloading. Some will tell you that they last longer than regular brass, but I honestly think that the main reason of nickle plated brass (mostly used in defensive rounds) is so that the cases won't tarnish, and will always be clean.

 

[EddieCoyle]

In my experience, nickel plated cases tend to split easier/sooner than brass. It makes sense because nickel is very hard.

Supposedly, the reason that they started using nickel plated brass was that brass cartridges quickly corroded when placed into a leather gun belt, and the nickel helped to prevent this.

I'll reload some (see below) nickel plated pistol cases once or twice depending on the caliber. I like to save them for times when I'm probably not going to be able to scrounge my brass, because it won't break my heart if I lose them. For example, I'm in the process of loading up a bunch of nickel-plated 10mm for the Spring Shoot.

It's a good idea to inspect the inside of your nickel plated cases prior to loading. The outside is smooth and shiny, but sometimes the inside wall of the case is rough and gritty (like sandpaper). Nickel that's been heated (like while firing) can get as hard as RC 55-60 (similar to hardened tool steel). If you reload one of these cases and then pull the bullet, it looks like it was hit with sandpaper. Try roughing up the outside of a copper-jacketed bullet with sandpaper and then sending it down the barrel. If anyone ever wonders how you can get copper fouling at pistol velocities, this is how it can happen. Now imagine a few grits of that hardened nickel getting stuck in the jacket and dragged through the barrel...

 

[TY43215]

For my moon clip guns and for my 40, I use Nickel brass. Occasionally I will use yellow brass on the 40.

I will take all the nickel brass anyone wants to get rid of. Any head stamp for 45 or 40 but RP only in 38spl as that is what my moon clips like.

 

[RKG]

In my experience, nickel plated cases tend to split easier/sooner than brass.

Mine is the same. You can reload the nickel cases, just keep a watch on them; best time to scan is after belling.

 

[Supermoto]

I find that nickle doesn't run through my dies as smooth unless they are lubed.

 

[EddieCoyle]

For my moon clip guns and for my 40, I use Nickel brass. Occasionally I will use yellow brass on the 40.

I will take all the nickel brass anyone wants to get rid of. Any head stamp for 45 or 40 but RP only in 38spl as that is what my moon clips like.

RGS, I'll bring a bag of .38 nickel (tumbled clean) to the Spring Shoot for you.

 

[TY43215]

RGS, I'll bring a bag of .38 nickel (tumbled clean) to the Spring Shoot for you.

Sweet, need any 45ACP??

 

[EddieCoyle]

Sweet, need any 45ACP??

Always.

 

[M1911]

I find that nickle doesn't run through my dies as smooth unless they are lubed.

I've never lubed my nickel plated brass. I find it runs through my dies easier than regular brass.

I have started to get some splits in my .45 ACP nickel plated brass, after reloading them 12 times or so. YMMV.

 

[TY43215]

Always.

Done

 

[Gammon]

I have used nickel cases with no problems, but durability depends on the MFR. I have found that R-P plated .45 ACP cases seem to split much sooner than other brands.