P226/P229 Short Reset Trigger installs

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I don't know if this thread would be better suited towards BIY, but I figured it may get some attention here. From what I understand Sig Sauer stopped selling the SRT kits to anyone other than certified armorers. Every once in a while I check around, and I saw this recently on Midway: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/567973/sig-sauer-short-reset-trigger-kit-sig-sauer-p226

This appears to be a factory part, will this give me what for all intents and purposes would be a factory short-reset trigger on my P229?

Thanks,

Mike
 
YES for your question. Look like the factory SRT kit. Never think midway sell the SRT kit, but good to know.

Sent from iPhone 5 using Forum Runner
 
I don't know if this thread would be better suited towards BIY, but I figured it may get some attention here. From what I understand Sig Sauer stopped selling the SRT kits to anyone other than certified armorers. Every once in a while I check around, and I saw this recently on Midway: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/567973/sig-sauer-short-reset-trigger-kit-sig-sauer-p226

This appears to be a factory part, will this give me what for all intents and purposes would be a factory short-reset trigger on my P229?

Thanks,

Mike


That's the part. FWIW I am a "factory certified Sig armorer." I think I have a couple SRT kits left.


(They're in stock at Topgun: http://www.topgunsupply.com/sig-sauer-srt-kit-p226-and-p229.html)
 
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I had excellent results in removing the creep from the standard SIG trigger by changing the stock firing pin safety lever in my 226 for one from a 220. I can't understand why the factory doesn't do this.
 
Gammon said:
I had excellent results in removing the creep from the standard SIG trigger by changing the stock firing pin safety lever in my 226 for one from a 220. I can't understand why the factory doesn't do this.

They are the exact same part. All "classic" Sigs use the same one. Maybe you had one with a burr or something on it. (That's one of the parts that I usually polish.)
 
My trigger isn't bad so to speak. I wouldn't mind taking down the double action pull a little, but my trigger is really nice otherwise, besides the long reset.

Any pointers you feel comfortable sharing? I have a gunsmithing video for the p229 where he breaks it all the way down and recommends parts for polishing, but being a sig armorer I don't know if you have any specific.thoughts in the matter. I have no reservations about tearing this thing apart, Id just like to take care of it all at once.

Did 50 bucks seem like a fair price? I'm in no rush to jump on this thing.

Mike

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
 
My trigger isn't bad so to speak. I wouldn't mind taking down the double action pull a little, but my trigger is really nice otherwise, besides the long reset.

Any pointers you feel comfortable sharing? I have a gunsmithing video for the p229 where he breaks it all the way down and recommends parts for polishing, but being a sig armorer I don't know if you have any specific.thoughts in the matter. I have no reservations about tearing this thing apart, Id just like to take care of it all at once.

Did 50 bucks seem like a fair price? I'm in no rush to jump on this thing.

Mike

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

I installed the SRT kit on my Sig P229. I learned a lot during the installation.

How to install SRT on Sig P229, P226, P220.
http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=434741

$50 is a good price. I think I paid more than $50.
 
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My trigger isn't bad so to speak. I wouldn't mind taking down the double action pull a little, but my trigger is really nice otherwise, besides the long reset.

Any pointers you feel comfortable sharing? I have a gunsmithing video for the p229 where he breaks it all the way down and recommends parts for polishing, but being a sig armorer I don't know if you have any specific.thoughts in the matter. I have no reservations about tearing this thing apart, Id just like to take care of it all at once.

Did 50 bucks seem like a fair price? I'm in no rush to jump on this thing.

Mike

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk



If you want to reduce the double action weight you want to swap in a lighter main spring. (Note, I would only do this for a "fun gun" and not a duty or SHTF gun.)

Sigs are pretty easy to work on in general. Really no rocket science. $50 sounds about right for the SRT kit. I haven't bought one in a while so I don't remember what I paid but it was in that ballpark. If you need help I could show you the ropes.
 
I may take you up on that depending on when I end up ordering the kit. As I said, I feel comfortable doing it myself, but if you're willing to show me a couple things I won't turn that down either. It's my carry gun, but also my favorite to shoot (pending taking the new 686 to the range) so I wouldn't mind cleaning it up a bit, but I don't want to do anything to compromise reliability and safety.

Mike
 
They are the exact same part. All "classic" Sigs use the same one. Maybe you had one with a burr or something on it. (That's one of the parts that I usually polish.)

You are mistaken, sir! SIG has several firing pin safety levers with different dimensions. I chose the lever with the thinnest leg which releases the trigger bar sooner and eliminates most of the take up.
 
Gammon said:
You are mistaken, sir! SIG has several firing pin safety levers with different dimensions. I chose the lever with the thinnest leg which releases the trigger bar sooner and eliminates most of the take up.

You may be seeing minor variations from the manufacturing process but they most certainly are the same exact part. This is an area where I know what I'm talking about.

Picture of all three kits:
View attachment 13886

More pictures from Topgun: http://www.topgunsupply.com/sig-sauer-srt-kits/
 
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You may be seeing minor variations from the manufacturing process but they most certainly are the same exact part. This is an area where I know what I'm talking about.

Picture of all three kits:
View attachment 13886

More pictures from Topgun: http://www.topgunsupply.com/sig-sauer-srt-kits/

I am speaking of firing pin safety levers, not kits. The difference in dimensions was far to large to be the result of manufacturing variations. In critical areas (the trigger group is a good example) most manufacturers make parts of varying dimensions to get the exact fit they need. SIG makes a wide variety of sears and firing pin safety levers, for example.
 
Gammon said:
I am speaking of firing pin safety levers, not kits. The difference in dimensions was far to large to be the result of manufacturing variations. In critical areas (the trigger group is a good example) most manufacturers make parts of varying dimensions to get the exact fit they need. SIG makes a wide variety of sears and firing pin safety levers, for example.

OK, I'm talking about the FSP lever in the SRT kit...

The SRT kit comes with a new sear and a new firing pin safety lever. Those parts are identical in all three kits. Depending on the kit you might also get a new decocking lever or trigger bar return spring which are needed when retrofitting older guns released before these parts were standardized.

There is a different sear / FSP lever for the DAK guns, but you wouldn't want to use those parts in a DA/SA gun. In general if Sig tells you that a certain part is for a certain gun there's probably a pretty good reason.
 
OK, I'm talking about the FSP lever in the SRT kit...

The SRT kit comes with a new sear and a new firing pin safety lever. Those parts are identical in all three kits. Depending on the kit you might also get a new decocking lever or trigger bar return spring which are needed when retrofitting older guns released before these parts were standardized.

There is a different sear / FSP lever for the DAK guns, but you wouldn't want to use those parts in a DA/SA gun. In general if Sig tells you that a certain part is for a certain gun there's probably a pretty good reason.

I was referring to FP safety levers used in the old trigger system, not the SRT kits. I was given several (four) of different dimensions to try in my P226. One reduced the take up to the point that the SRT kit is unnecessary. The key is the width of the leg that holds the trigger bar down. A thinner leg allows for a quicker reset.
 
I was referring to FP safety levers used in the old trigger system, not the SRT kits. I was given several (four) of different dimensions to try in my P226. One reduced the take up to the point that the SRT kit is unnecessary. The key is the width of the leg that holds the trigger bar down. A thinner leg allows for a quicker reset.

This thread is about the SRT trigger which have nothing to do with take up. As the name implies they have to do with reset. In any case there is exactly one non-SRT DA/SA p226 FSP lever in the parts book. I'm sure you can use manufacturing tolerances to your advantage (as in old school Garand NM rifles) but it's still technically only one part.

There is a different non-SRT FSP lever for the single stack DA/SA guns (aka the 220/225/245.) It's for the single stack guns for a reason.
 
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This thread is about the SRT trigger which have nothing to do with take up. As the name implies they have to do with reset. In any case there is exactly one non-SRT DA/SA p226 FSP lever in the parts book. I'm sure you can use manufacturing tolerances to your advantage (as in old school Garand NM rifles) but it's still technically only one part.

There is a different non-SRT FSP lever for the single stack DA/SA guns (aka the 220/225/245.) It's for the single stack guns for a reason.

My apologies, I meant reset. I realize that this thread deals with the SRT kit, but I thought it appropriate to mention that the installation on the right FPS lever could serve the same purpose. By replacing the FPS lever in my 226, I shortened the reset to the point that it is no longer a problem. This to me, is a better solution than replacing all of the parts included in the SRT kit.

PS after several thousand rounds this modification is still working flawlessly.
 
SRT showed up today. The install took about 5 minutes. I do have to say it breaks slightly less cleanly than the last sear did, but that is probably because the other one had a few thousand rounds behind it. I'll eventually do a trigger job when I have time. The reset is MUCH better. I wish it could still be a little tighter but I think this is as good as I will get. I'm happy with it.

Mike
 
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