Question for Safe owners...

Another vote for hockey pucks, granted I already have a crapload of them around the house so it was easy. We don't have any water issues but I didn't like the "steel on concrete" idea overall. Similar to above I bolted right through them on the bottom and back.
 
Basement? My basement is for my wife and kids when they piss me off.

I have two safes. One bolted to the floor in my den and another bolted to the floor in my walk in closet in my bedroom.
 
Check out Sturdy Safes.

I was looking at Vault Pro USA safes. 1/4" bent body safe with 2, 1/4" plates on the door. Full length welds on all the joints. Sounds like it would be the strongest on the market based on what I've researched.
 
PT 2 by 4s bolted right into the concrete floor. I have never had water in six years until the water heater went two weeks ago. It worked great.
 
Question for those who use hockey pucks. Any concern with it allowing a potential thief access and a leverage point to the bolts? I'm sure it's great to have air circulating through the bottom, but it seems to me that it adds a weakness to the safe.
 
Question for those who use hockey pucks. Any concern with it allowing a potential thief access and a leverage point to the bolts? I'm sure it's great to have air circulating through the bottom, but it seems to me that it adds a weakness to the safe.
I would not think it was any worse than the actual leverage that you would have by pushing on the top of the safe. A six foot tall safe is basically a 6 foot lever if you push on it at the top. This is why if you are going to bolt it down you should also bolt it through the back near the top.
 
I love NES! We just did a new trex deck. I kept the scraps. My wife said"why are you keeping that? What are you going to use it for?". Now I know. Replace the wood under the safe with trex. Thanks NES!
 
I was looking at Vault Pro USA safes. 1/4" bent body safe with 2, 1/4" plates on the door. Full length welds on all the joints. Sounds like it would be the strongest on the market based on what I've researched.
Depending on the grade steel and composite aggregate, that might put it above a "Residential Security Cabinet" as a "B-Rate safe", but well below the standards for TL-30 (1.5" steel door minimum).
[video=youtube_share;17VdpPiGmXs]http://youtu.be/17VdpPiGmXs[/video]
 
Depending on the grade steel and composite aggregate, that might put it above a "Residential Security Cabinet" as a "B-Rate safe", but well below the standards for TL-30 (1.5" steel door minimum).
[video=youtube_share;17VdpPiGmXs]http://youtu.be/17VdpPiGmXs[/video]

I appreciate all the info. All of these links are video's I've already reviewed.
 
This is why if you are going to bolt it down you should also bolt it through the back near the top.

Actually this was my point. With hockey pucks under the safe and the bolts through the pucks, it does provide a leverage point for a potential thief to get better leverage on the safe. Also access to cut the bolts.
 
Safe on pucks:
Sawsall the bolts through the pucks, slide appliance dolly under the safe using the nice gap provided by the pucks, tilt and remove.

Safe on floor:
Sawsall.. well, wait, how do I get under that. Push on the safe. No, maybe if we pull on it instead. If I could get under it I could get to the bolts. Maybe if I try cutting at the bottom corners of the safe... Darn, broke a blade. Hmmm....

If you are going to elevate the safe at least use steel pucks or pads or something. Heck even a couple of pieces of large diameter pipe would work better for elevating the safe and protecting the bolts than wood, Trex, or hockey pucks.

Now that I am thinking about it how about, a 1 inch thick slice of large diameter pipe with a 7/8 inch thick slice of smaller diameter pipe put over the bolt before the safe goes down. Big pipe holds safe up and is hard to cut. If you do cut through, the smaller pipe will move and spin and generally make cutting the bolt all but impossible.
 
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Safe on pucks:
Sawsall the bolts through the pucks, slide appliance dolly under the safe using the nice gap provided by the pucks, tilt and remove.

Safe on floor:
Sawsall.. well, wait, how do I get under that. Push on the safe. No, maybe if we pull on it instead. If I could get under it I could get to the bolts. Maybe if I try cutting at the bottom corners of the safe... Darn, broke a blade. Hmmm....

If you are going to elevate the safe at least use steel pucks or pads or something. Heck even a couple of pieces of large diameter pipe would work better for elevating the safe and protecting the bolts than wood, Trex, or hockey pucks.

Now that I am thinking about it how about, a 1 inch thick slice of large diameter pipe with a 7/8 inch thick slice of smaller diameter pipe put over the bolt before the safe goes down. Big pipe holds safe up and is hard to cut. If you do cut through, the smaller pipe will move and spin and generally make cutting the bolt all but impossible.

Good points...
 
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