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Doh'I use hockey pucks under mine.
Check out Sturdy Safes.
I would not think it was any worse than the actual leverage that you would have by pushing on the top of the safe. A six foot tall safe is basically a 6 foot lever if you push on it at the top. This is why if you are going to bolt it down you should also bolt it through the back near the top.Question for those who use hockey pucks. Any concern with it allowing a potential thief access and a leverage point to the bolts? I'm sure it's great to have air circulating through the bottom, but it seems to me that it adds a weakness to the safe.
Depending on the grade steel and composite aggregate, that might put it above a "Residential Security Cabinet" as a "B-Rate safe", but well below the standards for TL-30 (1.5" steel door minimum).I was looking at Vault Pro USA safes. 1/4" bent body safe with 2, 1/4" plates on the door. Full length welds on all the joints. Sounds like it would be the strongest on the market based on what I've researched.
Depending on the grade steel and composite aggregate, that might put it above a "Residential Security Cabinet" as a "B-Rate safe", but well below the standards for TL-30 (1.5" steel door minimum).
[video=youtube_share;17VdpPiGmXs]http://youtu.be/17VdpPiGmXs[/video]
This is why if you are going to bolt it down you should also bolt it through the back near the top.
Safe on pucks:
Sawsall the bolts through the pucks, slide appliance dolly under the safe using the nice gap provided by the pucks, tilt and remove.
Safe on floor:
Sawsall.. well, wait, how do I get under that. Push on the safe. No, maybe if we pull on it instead. If I could get under it I could get to the bolts. Maybe if I try cutting at the bottom corners of the safe... Darn, broke a blade. Hmmm....
If you are going to elevate the safe at least use steel pucks or pads or something. Heck even a couple of pieces of large diameter pipe would work better for elevating the safe and protecting the bolts than wood, Trex, or hockey pucks.
Now that I am thinking about it how about, a 1 inch thick slice of large diameter pipe with a 7/8 inch thick slice of smaller diameter pipe put over the bolt before the safe goes down. Big pipe holds safe up and is hard to cut. If you do cut through, the smaller pipe will move and spin and generally make cutting the bolt all but impossible.
same as you though, no moisture ever.
As soon as you need to have something at least an inch or so off the floor, you will see how important it is to have it off the floor.
Wait till a water pipe breaks.