Reloading HELP!! 45 ACP

[EddieCoyle]

Add to this what I call "filthy firearm syndrome". I've only run lead a few
times in my autos.... And it ended up doubling or tripling the amount of time
required to clean the gun completely. Of course it probably depends on the type, hardness, etc, of the lead bullets being used... and some calibers probably
"lead" up barrels a lot more than others do.

-Mike

The lube can dirty-up the gun pretty good but lead shouldn't be a problem.

I've fired over 1000 rounds of lead through my 4506 (.45 ACP) with no leading of the barrel at all. I run hard cast lead only (swaged lead is much softer), and the .45 ACP does not develop the pressure/speed necessary to lead up the barrel. The only leading you'll get (in a non-pitted barrel) with a .45 ACP will be from loads that are not hot enough! The trick is to make the load hot enough so that the base of the bullet expands and prevents the hot gas from melting the side of the bullet and depositing the lead into the rifling.

After shooting a few hundred rounds of lead, I'll fire a magazine of jacketed bullets and that takes care of any lead in the barrel.

FYI- The Lyman book is the best source for load data for lead bullets.

 

[M1911]

To reduce my lead exposure, I usually reload TMJ bullets. Some of the airborne lead comes from the base of the bullet being exposed to the combustion of the powder. A bullet with a jacketed base (e.g., TMJ or JHP, but not FMJ) thus produces less airborne lead.

I'm also not a big fan of the smoke-screen caused by the lube on lead bullets...

 

[PistolPete]

First off I would recommend against using Lead at all costs. It's just not worth using. First, it gums up your dies and you'll have to clean them fairly often because the wax always gets stuck. Second, you don't want to be touching the lead and then getting it into your mouth or skin. Third, when shooting lead it makes a lot more smoke. It is your choice but you should really think about shooting jacketed.

You also need a pair of dial calipers. Then a proper loading book that will give you OAL for the bullet weight and profile you are using. You should also chrono the loads if at all possible.

As for depriming live primers. I NEVER bother with them. I just pinch the case shut with plyers and throw it away. Not worth saving the piece of brass. I would NEVER deprime it with the press. That could be a recipe for disaster. I've done it in the past but just don't recommend it.

Pete

 

[EddieCoyle]

As for depriming live primers. I NEVER bother with them. I just pinch the case shut with plyers and throw it away.

Instead of depriming, if I take apart a live round, I just back off the decapping punch, resize the primed case, and load it up.

Am I doing something wrong?

 

[Adam_MA]

I have deprimed many live cases. It can be done safely if you put the case on the shell holder, and slowly raise the case into the die. It will push out the primer without detonation. It takes an impact to detonate a primer, and slow steady pressure will most likely not detonate it. One caution though, make sure you are wearing safety goggles, and don't have any powder near by just in case.
As for sizing a live primed case... The only thing I would worry about, is having the primer back out. The sizing die fits the case very tightly. Therefore you could build up pressure inside the case, and could back the primer out. I have had this happen to me. In that case, I just reseated the primer again and it was good to go.

If all else fails though, you can always put the empty case in the chamber of your gun, and detonate the primer, decap, and continue. Again, ALL safety considerations should be in place.

Adam