Revolver, stuck cylinder and bad rounds?

[Mikey]

Ok here is my “amateurish shooter” question for the month.

At the range the other day I started shooting .38’s and had two rounds of factory ammo not fire, so then I move to .357’s and after shooting them the cylinder would not release from the gun. I had to bang it pretty good to open it. Then after reloading the cylinder it would not go back into the frame. So I put the gun down relaxed and tried again, this time it closed up and fired the rest of the magnums fine.

So anyways what would cause the cylinder not to open and/or close?

And

If two out of fifty rounds do not fire should I just tack this up to a couple bad rounds or a possible problem with the firing pin?

The gun is a S&W 620 and only about 6 months old and has never given me any problems.

 

[EddieCoyle]

Tighten up the extractor rod (the thing you push to extract the cartridges). This often loosens up with use and will cause exactly the condition you describe.

 

[vellnueve]

What brand of ammo?

 

[jhrosier]

Some recent S&Ws are alleged to have short firing pins. I don't know if the 620 is on this list. If problems continue send or take in in for service, it should be under warranty.
Cylinder sticking is a known problem with S&W revolvers. Because they are closely fitted, unburned powder or other debris can get under the extractor star and bind up the cylinder, however, do check the cylinder pin for tightness as well. note that the S&W cylinder pins have a left-hand thread.
If your ammo is leaving powder grains in the chambers and barrel you will have to brush out the recess for the extractor. I've heard folks recommend pointing the barrel straight up when removing the fired casings to keep powder grains from getting under the extractor.
Missfires with domestic factory centerfire ammo are pretty rare. The gun is probably more likely to cause the problem. All bets are off with imported ammo or reloads.
Another thing to check on S&Ws is the strain screw at the bottom of the frontstrap. It should always be tight.

 

[Mikey]

What brand of ammo?

American Ammo, I know it is not the best but I have gone through at least a few hundred rounds of it in both this gun and my autos.

 

[vellnueve]

Try some UMC or WWB and see if you notice any similar problems. If you do, then send it back for repair.

The 620 oughta be a fun gun... I have the 520 (carbon steel/tit cylinder version).

 

[TY43215]

American Ammo, I know it is not the best but I have gone through at least a few hundred rounds of it in both this gun and my autos.

+1 to what Eddy Coyle stated. Check the rod for tight. Also, check the strain screw to make sure it is tight.

Bring the revo to the spring shoot and I will check it over for you. I will have a few tools and parts for S&W revolvers with me in case anyone needs anything.

 

[Mikey]

Great, thanks for the help guys, I will check out the rod and strain screw. I will also bring it with me to the shoot.

vellnueve, your right this is a great gun and fun to shoot.

 

[RKG]

Tighten up the extractor rod (the thing you push to extract the cartridges). This often loosens up with use and will cause exactly the condition you describe.

This is one possibility; however, those who wish to screw or unscrew a S&W extractor rod should focus on a couple of points:

1. After about 1950-something, the thread on these rods is LEFT handed. This change was made so that the normal rotation of the rod as a result of cycling the gun tends to tighten, rather than to loosen, the rod.

2. Do not put pliers, vice-grips or anything else with sharp teeth on the knurled portion of the rod. The resulting defacement will diminish the value of the gun. Rather, wrap the knurled portion in a piece of leather and chuck the wrapped end in a vice; the turn the cylinder portion. Be sure to support the chucked rod so as not to bend the rod.

3. Before applying torque to the cylinder, insert two spent cases into charge holes opposite one another. This will prevent the force of the torque from being borne either by the two small locating pins or the finely machined inlet section of the cylinder.

My guess (any long-range, sight unseen "diagnosis" is necessarily a guess) as to the cause of the problem, however, is somewhat different. A .38 Spl. case is 0.135" shorter than a .357 Magnum case. As a result, firing .38 Spl. ammo in a .357 cylinder can lead to a build up of lead particles, unburned power, and combustion products in this section of the chamber. Now, when you try to chamber a .357 round, it is hard to seat and, if it does not seat fully, it will bear up on the recoil shield and make the cylinder hard to close, hard to open, and hard to spin.

Try this: thoroughly clean the cylinder using conventional (solvent) techniques. Then inspect the charge holes with a strong light, focussing on the forewardmost portion of the chamber. You may need a fairly new bronze brush and some elbow grease to thoroughly clean this section.

Now dry the charge holes and see how well .357 rounds drop in.

 

[Mikey]

I will not try and tighten anything myself, I don't have the experience to screw up my favorite gun (actually I think I do have the experience to screw up my gun). I will check them out today to see if anything feels loose and then shoot the hell out of it and see what happens. If the problem persists hopefully the guys at the spring shoot can check it out.

 

[Patriot]

Bring the revo to the spring shoot and I will check it over for you. I will have a few tools and parts for S&W revolvers with me in case anyone needs anything.

I have a loose cylinder on a 17 so if I could bring that along with me to have
you take a look at it I would appreciate it.

Thanks,

TBP

 

[Mikey]

Well today I shot 50 rds each of .38's and then .357's, There was no sticking of any kind. So maybe just a fluke? I did though have two more rounds not fire on the first hit. I hit both rounds again and both fired (not sure if you are suppose to do that). Same american ammo too.

Also I can't tell if anything is loose, it seems to be the same as when new.

 

[EddieCoyle]

Well today I shot 50 rds each of .38's and then .357's, There was no sticking of any kind. So maybe just a fluke? I did though have two more rounds not fire on the first hit. I hit both rounds again and both fired (not sure if you are suppose to do that). Same american ammo too.

Also I can't tell if anything is loose, it seems to be the same as when new.

Mike, AMERC is the worst ammo by far. I've been trying to give away 400 rounds of AMERC .30 Carbine with no takers.

Check the primers on the problem rounds and see if they backed out. That'll lock it up. My advice would be to get rid of the stuff (it can even be dangerous) and buy any other brand.

 

[drgrant]

American Ammo, I know it is not the best but I have gone through at least a few hundred rounds of it in both this gun and my autos.

If this is the stuff marked "A-MERC" on the headstamp, that is your
problem. That stuff is WORSE than any other ammo on the market,
bar none. Their brass is garbage and their ammo has blown up quite a
few different guns. Absolute trash components.

-Mike

 

[Mikey]

Mike, AMERC is the worst ammo by far. I've been trying to give away 400 rounds of AMERC .30 Carbine with no takers.

Check the primers on the problem rounds and see if they backed out. That'll lock it up. My advice would be to get rid of the stuff (it can even be dangerous) and buy any other brand.

I just finished all the american ammo and will not buy anymore.

 

[TonyD]

Come on, there is no problem...everyone knows revolvers never jam or have malfunctions -